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  #16  
Old 03-11-2015, 09:43 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Dreamsbeard View Post
Nice, This one needs a convergence adjustment, I suppose the procedure would be available in your litterature?

As for it being somewhat rare, I suppose that when Motorola sold to Matsushita, a lot of people in the US lost interest in the brand maybe?

7 safety cap? Hey that's 3 more than the CC, that's somehting!
The Motorola dealers and distributors still kept handling them.
The part of the chassis, you don't see is the power supply. It has the voltage regulating transformer like Zenith and a few others used.
They referred to those as "redundant" capacitors.
Zenith should have stayed with the multiple safety caps, like used in the "E" line, instead of the single one in the "F" line. Cost savings, NOT!!!!
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  #17  
Old 03-11-2015, 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Zenith should have stayed with the multiple safety caps, like used in the "E" line, instead of the single one in the "F" line. Cost savings, NOT!!!!
Seems rather risky to me to run a single-safety cap Zenith even if the cap is an orange drop. I doubt that they are immune to the kind of failure the white ones are prone to.
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  #18  
Old 03-11-2015, 10:46 PM
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Not saying that it can't happen; but, I've never seen an open orange drop in a Zenith and I have not heard anything about one opening. On rare occasions, they have been known to short; but, all that generally does is trip the circuit breaker.
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  #19  
Old 03-12-2015, 11:55 AM
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Only the earliest orange drops I've seen (early to mid 60's) in high heat areas of tube sets have showed signs (eye not fully opening in capacitance measuring mode on my heath C-3) of starting to go open.
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  #20  
Old 03-12-2015, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by drh4683 View Post
This is an interesting set. I can appreciate the Matsushita attempt at the "works in a drawer" design. Seeing that you're in Canada, I'd be curious to know if this set was built at the Motorola/Quasar TV plant that was in Markham, Ontario. That plant opened in 1971 and they only built TV's for the Canadian market there. I don't know if Matsushita took over that plant right away or not when they completed the purchase of the consumer division in May of '74. Do you have the exact model and serial number from the back tag on this set?
Yep, it was built in Markham, Ont.

there are a lot of numbers at the back of the set...let's see :

- HY644914
- 68P72601A21
-47H31YWU9314NK

It would be logical that the canadian branch was included in the deal, so I assume that by may 74, Quasar was panasonic in canada also.
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  #21  
Old 03-12-2015, 07:39 PM
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Ok, yes it's certainly a Canadian made set because of the "Y" in the model number. It's interesting to note that even though Matsushita purchased the Quasar division from Motorola in May of '74, it wasn't until May of 1976 when they had total control and ownership of ALL of the plants outside of the Chicago area that built consumer products. I was never quite sure what ended up happening with the Ontario plant after everything was finalized.
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2015, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
Nope - but there is a 2-page description of the convergence circuitry for both the delta and in-line CRTs. Understand that Quasar technical training covers unique circuitry that an experienced technician would need. They don't cover mundane, standard or non-unique adjustments such as convergence.

Your set has adjustments for all aspects - and the board is labeled as to what each pot/coil does. If the red/green or blue is out of convergence in an area of the CRT, just adjust that coil or pot. Out all over? Start with a static alignment with the neck magnets, and then perform a dynamic adustment using the pots/coils on the convergence board. The pots/coils are marked with their function, e.g. TOP BLU HORIZ or RIGHT R/G VERT.

Hope this helps - it would help to know if you've ever converged a TV.

Cheers,
I never converged a delta gun before, I heard it can be quite a challenge even for the most skilled service man!
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  #23  
Old 03-14-2015, 08:36 PM
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Deltas are easy: get purity right, throw up a crosshatch pattern, get static (center) convergence right with three convergence clover magnets + blue lateral on neck, then go after the dynamic (area surrounding the center) convergence controls (on the board with all the pots and adjustable coils on it). Be aware that the dynamic controls rarely are capable of perfection over the whole screen. So once you get it right inward of 1-3" from the edge of the screen, and can't get it better, call it 'done right', and be happy.
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  #24  
Old 03-15-2015, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Deltas are easy: get purity right, throw up a crosshatch pattern, get static (center) convergence right with three convergence clover magnets + blue lateral on neck, then go after the dynamic (area surrounding the center) convergence controls (on the board with all the pots and adjustable coils on it). Be aware that the dynamic controls rarely are capable of perfection over the whole screen. So once you get it right inward of 1-3" from the edge of the screen, and can't get it better, call it 'done right', and be happy.
+1 - and concise!!

Important words above - "Be aware that the dynamic controls rarely are capable of perfection over the whole screen" - how true!
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  #25  
Old 03-16-2015, 11:42 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Only the earliest orange drops I've seen (early to mid 60's) in high heat areas of tube sets have showed signs (eye not fully opening in capacitance measuring mode on my heath C-3) of starting to go open.
I bought some Zenith orange drop double caps at a swap-meet. They were NOS, loose in a large box. A beautiful, sun shiney day. They turned a darker orange color, by being out in the sun. I bought a few, for a buck each.
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  #26  
Old 03-16-2015, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
Deltas are easy: get purity right, throw up a crosshatch pattern, get static (center) convergence right with three convergence clover magnets + blue lateral on neck, then go after the dynamic (area surrounding the center) convergence controls (on the board with all the pots and adjustable coils on it). Be aware that the dynamic controls rarely are capable of perfection over the whole screen. So once you get it right inward of 1-3" from the edge of the screen, and can't get it better, call it 'done right', and be happy.
Now I almost have enough knowledge to do this. A couple of questions though: where is the purity control, and how would I know when it's been adjusted properly?
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  #27  
Old 03-16-2015, 02:01 PM
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Purity procedure: with blank red raster slide *deflection yoke towards back of set until tye-dye picture obtained, use tabbed purity rings (located between convergence clover and blue lateral magnet on neck) to center the red spot on screen, slide yoke forward until uniform red screen is obtained, and leave yoke there, check work with green and blue screens.

The red field can be acheived in two ways: turn down green and blue screen controls (or in some sets [especially Zeniths] the CRT wires for a color can be unplugged which do the job without disturbing gray scale adjustment), or if you don't wish to adjust those controls and your color stages are rock solid you can send a primary-red test field to the set using a sig generator or DVD.

*May want/need to use external degaussing coil to degauss CRT face at this point.
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  #28  
Old 04-23-2016, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreamsbeard View Post
About two years ago, I went on a little road trip (approx 500km round trip) to pick up this 76 Quasar console. Got it from an elderly couple that bought it new in early 77 for 861$ (they still had the receipt for it!). They told me that the TV had been in their basement since about 1991, and that they rarely used it since then. They where happy to see it go to a good home.

The reason, I bring this up now, is that I kept the TV in storage at my stepmother house since, but in a few weeks I bring it home with me, and I wanted to know more about it.

Obviously it's not as collectible as a real Motorola works in a drawer, but it's still early enough to be intersting (to me anyway ).

Please feel free to share your thought about this one!
Thanks!
Looks to me like your TV is Motorola's first Works in a Drawer, a.k.a. WID, set. Until I saw this one I didn't know the WID models were even available in the '70s; I always thought they first appeared in the early eighties. The later WID sets, further, had slide controls for volume and color intensity/hue, with some models having five push buttons on the front panel which could be set for the user's favorite UHF channels, like early car radios, so these sets must have had electronic varactor tuning. This is the first WID set I've ever seen with standard rotary VHF and UHF tuners, so it could conceivably be considered a "first generation" Works in a Drawer set.
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  #29  
Old 04-23-2016, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeffhs View Post
Looks to me like your TV is Motorola's first Works in a Drawer, a.k.a. WID, set. Until I saw this one I didn't know the WID models were even available in the '70s; I always thought they first appeared in the early eighties. The later WID sets, further, had slide controls for volume and color intensity/hue, with some models having five push buttons on the front panel which could be set for the user's favorite UHF channels, like early car radios, so these sets must have had electronic varactor tuning. This is the first WID set I've ever seen with standard rotary VHF and UHF tuners, so it could conceivably be considered a "first generation" Works in a Drawer set.
WID came out in the late 60's (1967 IIRC). The 80's models were the last ones.
Aside from the first chassis or two there were usually low tube (less than 5) count hybrids available (some to be cheap, some because certain SS parts were not ready to reliably replace tubes) till the mid 70's.
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  #30  
Old 04-25-2016, 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
WID came out in the late 60's (1967 IIRC). The 80's models were the last ones.
Aside from the first chassis or two there were usually low tube (less than 5) count hybrids available (some to be cheap, some because certain SS parts were not ready to reliably replace tubes) till the mid 70's.
Also, by that point, it wasn't motorola anymore that made those set, but Matsushita (Panasonic).
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