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  #31  
Old 05-31-2016, 09:36 PM
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Nope. Pretty sure Danny told me it was original. The radio also has a tuning eye tube - so that's pretty cool.
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  #32  
Old 06-01-2016, 08:54 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Originally Posted by TUD1 View Post
Nope. Pretty sure Danny told me it was original. The radio also has a tuning eye tube - so that's pretty cool.
You'll see, when removing the chassis, if the control was replaced or not. It really doesn't make much difference. The switch, probably was replaced. The CTS push-pull switches with the black button back, didn't stand up too well, plus they could be fire hazards. I installed many KR8M switches.
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  #33  
Old 06-01-2016, 11:20 AM
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Danny sent me a picture of the switch. I'm inclined to agree with him that it's original.
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Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:54 PM.
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  #34  
Old 06-01-2016, 11:56 AM
Tom9589 Tom9589 is offline
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Yep, it looks like an original. It also looks like it is NOT a pull on, push off switch. Also, look at the wear pattern on the front of the panel around the treble control. The wear pattern would indicate a conventional turn on, turn off switch.
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  #35  
Old 06-01-2016, 12:46 PM
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Electronic M Electronic M is online now
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I've got a similar set of Admiral stereo guts....And a non combo Admiral TV with speakers on either side of the screen....Hmm That could be a fun project; making a combo out of it.
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  #36  
Old 06-01-2016, 02:17 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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do not use heat (other than sunlight) to remove the lens. Its not needed for yours. Heat with a heat gun works but is much more dangerous IMHO. The main thing is not to rush it and not to hear or cool rapidly. even in sun heat I put in shade to let it cool down. NEVER use water to clean if tube is hot.

I have a 23V rectangle that has been sitting out in the weather for over a year now, Still in its foam case, with a hole dug out and a funnel in the hole right over the junction of the lens to CRT face. Grease on the pins and anode to prevent corrosion.

I was thinking of putting down a soft towel, put the CRT face down and cover with dirt to let the microbes have a go at it. Low damp area to really get the most out of it.

Last edited by DaveWM; 06-01-2016 at 02:21 PM.
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  #37  
Old 06-02-2016, 02:08 PM
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Congratulations, that is a very interesting round color combo indeed.

That amp chassis and tuner (9M1 chassis?) are the same as the Admiral stereo multiplex console I have except the rectifier tube in yours has a 6CA4 and mine is a 5U4 (chassis 3PA8A)
After recap and several tube replacements, the unit does sound very good for single-ended and has bass to spare. I wonder what record changer you have mines an Admiral that looks like a V-M from the top side.
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Last edited by DavGoodlin; 06-02-2016 at 02:13 PM.
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  #38  
Old 07-11-2016, 10:35 PM
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Good news! Danny got the chassis up and running and producing a picture. Bad news! The flyback is shot. Good news! Another friend of mine (a member of this forum) has a new one that he's going to give me.
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Last edited by TUD1; 03-12-2017 at 06:56 PM.
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  #39  
Old 07-13-2016, 11:58 AM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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whats wrong with the fly?
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  #40  
Old 07-13-2016, 02:54 PM
jstout66 jstout66 is offline
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Yes.. wondering what is shot on the flyback as well if that's a screen shot of said TV.
A flyback either works or doesn't.
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  #41  
Old 07-14-2016, 10:17 PM
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It gets really hot and bubbles tar. It will be getting replaced, working or not.
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  #42  
Old 07-14-2016, 11:01 PM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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I'd look for and fix whatever may be causing that first, otherwise you may just do the same to the replacement. How much current are you running through there? You get that part of the circuit working correctly, and you may find the original will no longer overheat.

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  #43  
Old 07-14-2016, 11:16 PM
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You can't just assume it's bad unless you've run through the horizontal setup in the manual, could be as simple as an efficiency coil adjustment or some damper/output tube rolling. HV rectifier could be gassy, or there may be leakage in old HV wiring or conductive dust in the cage. I have a Packard bell chassis right now that overheated the fly first time I ran it and cathode current was only 190, let it cool overnight and when I powered it up the next day it was fine. Moisture in the transformer also causes issues sometimes.
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  #44  
Old 07-15-2016, 03:31 PM
DaveWM DaveWM is offline
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Quote:
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It gets really hot and bubbles tar. It will be getting replaced, working or not.
oops saw miniman pretty much covered what I was typing. I agree with what he said.
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  #45  
Old 07-15-2016, 08:53 PM
joemama99 joemama99 is offline
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That safety glass looks like it will come off with very little trouble.
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