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  #16  
Old 03-12-2017, 10:30 PM
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That chassis is solid state, and likely needs recapping and an alignment. doug Harland (drh4683) has a great video on youtube about how to align a space command chassis for best or proper operation. Your remote looks like it would be just fine.
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  #17  
Old 03-12-2017, 10:33 PM
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Also, if it is an original SC400 color remote, be careful with the buttons. The design of these is poor and they are easy to break. It is very hard to even find this version of SC400. The buttons hinge the opposite way from the later and improved design of the SC600. It took me years to find the same remote for my set that also has the 25LC20QS chassis. Most people, including back when these sets were still in use, used a SC600 remote when the 400 broke.
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2017, 10:53 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgadow View Post
But the remote receiver chassis would have to either have tubes or transistors. I remember having a Zenith that used, I think, 2 tubes and they were pretty dead. By '64 they might have gone solid state for that subchassis?
Sorry Bryan,
I must be loosing it, I missed the part about remote receiver chassis, I was thinking in terms of remote control only.Your're

correct the receiver is transistorized, 2N218 types PNP.

Last edited by EdKozk2; 03-13-2017 at 02:07 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-13-2017, 02:04 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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VA561 I just emailed the info.
Ed
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  #20  
Old 03-13-2017, 08:56 PM
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Mission accomplished!!!! I got lucky on this one. Nothing major. After looking at the sams that Ed sent,(thanks Ed!) I decided to look inside at the remote chassis. I took some fine grit sand paper and lightly sanded all of the contacts for all relays. Then I took some no residue contact cleaner and sprayed where I thought it would make a difference. After that I took the deoxit with lubricant and lightly sprayed where I thought it would work best. I kept the chassis uncovered and sat down on the sofa and tried the remote. I had channel up and and mute and now I had channel down but still no volume/on/off. I could here the relay trying to work. Then I took the remote and went to the back of the set while I hit the volume button. It seemed to be stuck so I nudged the contact wheel and it started working.I tried it several times and everything works great. The volume works like it should and turns the set off and on.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg deoxit.jpg (97.8 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg remote chassis1.jpg (71.0 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg remote chassis2.jpg (105.9 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg remote chassis3.jpg (81.6 KB, 28 views)
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  #21  
Old 03-13-2017, 09:43 PM
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This isn't the same chancellor set that Captainmoody had it is? If so, it was mine before Dwight got it.

Fine tuning issues is one or two things. This era of Zenith used an "O-ring" as a drive belt for the fine tuner. Typically, the original O-ring breaks due to age. A simple hardware store replacement works just fine. The 2nd issue is that the fine tuning gear that's attached to the shaft (inside the tuner) that is driven by the O-ring belt develops a small hairline crack and the gear spins on the shaft, thus not enabling fine tuning. It's a splined shaft that the gear is pressed over. It doesn't actually need to be replaced, but rather, remove the fine tuning gear, find the hairline crack alone the gear tooth (typically easy to find), add a drop of super glue in the crack and spin the shaft to spread the glue until the gear adheres to the shaft and you're good to go.
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Last edited by drh4683; 03-13-2017 at 09:52 PM.
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  #22  
Old 03-14-2017, 12:36 AM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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Good to see you got it working.
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  #23  
Old 03-14-2017, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drh4683 View Post
..find the hairline crack alongs the gear tooth (typically easy to find), add a drop of super glue in the crack and spin the shaft to spread the glue until the gear adheres to the shaft and you're good to go.
It's better to first remove the gear and degrease thoroughly before gluing. We always used a smijjin of epoxy. Never had a failure thereafter.
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  #24  
Old 03-14-2017, 11:51 AM
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Thanks for the tuner info doug. It is the same set that you owned. It now has a permanent home in Norfolk. Its fitting because Norfolk is a Navy town and that Zenith set is a Nimitz class console! I've never picked up a heavier set in my life. It has to be solid oak wood. Its a big one. I understand that this model (the chancellor),was their top of the line for '64. Dwight said that you picked it up from a wealthy homeowner in Chicago and that he had it delivered to his home straight from the Zenith factory in Chicago. Its a beautiful cabinet and in great shape except for a few water rings on top which I plan to take care of. Any additional info you can give about the history of the set would be greatly appreciated.
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  #25  
Old 03-14-2017, 06:39 PM
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From the Zenith catalog:

-Steve D.
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  #26  
Old 03-14-2017, 07:28 PM
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Thanks Steve. So its walnut, not oak. Either way its a hernia maker.
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  #27  
Old 03-14-2017, 09:38 PM
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Well It Was Working

My '64 Zenith (see space command remote thread) was working great last night. I had all of the buttons on the remote working. I could turn the tv off and on, volume worked, mute button and channel up and down. I turned the set off for the night with the remote and the tv off/on button pushed in. I then unplugged the set. This is what I did today that apparently caused the set not to work. A friend gave me a set of cables that allow me to play music on my smart phone through the tape outputs on the back of the set.You plug the cables into the tape output jacks and the two cables go into one which plugs into the earphone jack on the smartphone. I turned the tuner on with the tape button pushed in then was playing music. I did have the volume fairly high for a short time. After I finished listening to music, I turned the tuner off and about three hours later I tried to turn the tv on with the remote. Nothing. The set would not come on. I tried to turn the set on with the tv on/off button and nothing. When I put the remote chassis switch from automatic to manual, I could turn the tv on. If I try to turn the switch back to automatic while the tv is on, it turns the tv off. Somehow there must be a connection between playing music through the tape outputs and the remote chassis. I don't know what happened. HELP!!!
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  #28  
Old 03-14-2017, 11:23 PM
EdKozk2 EdKozk2 is offline
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I dont, think the audio connections had any thing to do with your power issue. You may have a stuck or out of sequence ratchet relay. Check M7 and M5 as per the schematic I sent. You may have to replace the electrolytic caps throughout the receiver. The collector circuit of every relay driver transistor has one.
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  #29  
Old 03-15-2017, 06:56 AM
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That volume/power ratchet was seized, you freed it but made no mention of lubing it so it has probably re-seized from sitting a few hours. The audio input should have nothing to do with the issue. If it is plastic find where it was lubed, clean the old lube and apply white lithium grease or something similar to the original lube.
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  #30  
Old 03-15-2017, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Findm-Keepm View Post
If that is indeed a sensitivity control - be careful - too sensitive and some features will quit working, as the gain is increased to the point of saturating the amp, and causing the control pulses to widen. Also, too much sensitivity can cause it to respond to other sounds - keys jingling on a key chain, the phone, etc.

Cheers,
No kidding. That reminds me of what happened in the storage room with my Sanyo. I don't recall exactly what I was doing but it caused a pile of remotes to take a spill, and boom, the TV came on. I checked the remotes I knew I had tried batteries in, none had any.
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