#1
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A few basic questions so I don't start a fire
Hi all. Just wanted to get a few basic piece of information written down so I have them available going forward. I've somehow been in this hobby for something like five years and realized today that I've never actually bothered to memorize this stuff.
- What wire gauge is generally used in vintage radios/tvs/electronics? I know there's probably some variation for signal vs. power supply, but are there some numbers that I can usually rely on for different applications? - When I'm replacing a selenium rectifier with a diode, how do I polarize it? Generally, the rectifier is marked with a + on one side. Does the line for the diode go on this side, or opposite? I managed to burn out an entire power transformer in the past doing this wrong, learned it, and have now forgotten it again so I'd prefer not to repeat that mistake. - What temperature to y'all generally use for your soldering irons? Do you change it for soldering and desoldering? - How do I safely discharge a CRT? Is this different for sets with/without a power transformer? I've never had to do that but I've got a set lined up that needs the electrolytics replaced, and I'd prefer to get the high voltage discharged before I take the chassis out. - When replacing a power cord, the hot side goes to the fuse or switch, right? I'm sure I'm going to think of more later, but that's all I've got now. Any help is appreciated.
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To keep your tubes running smoothly, make sure to dust underneath the glass as well. |
#2
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Wire guage varies widely based on set and application. I've seen high tube count TVs where the main heater line is as thick as the stuff in the walls of your house and I've seen signal/B+ hookup wire as thin as the stuff in phono arms...look at what is there and don't go thinner.
IIRC seleniums + end is the same as the band in the diode, and is the end that hooks to the B+ rail. I usually kill 1+ irons per year so I buy the 6$ new/used non-adjustable specials...Not the ~$100 buck stations. Best way to discharge is with a HV meter. The slow bleed of the resistor prevents dielectric bounceback...Don't matter how the set is powered. Some sets have safety bleeder resistors from line to chassis and other dumb stuff...Analyze the schematic case by case and revise as needed.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#3
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For wire, pay attention to the voltage rating as well as the size, you don't want to use automotive wiring rated for 12V on tube equipment which operates at hundreds or thousands of volts. Usually though original wiring is fine, don't replace it unless it's in bad shape.
For soldering irons, I have a 35W Weller I use for most stuff, I've had it since 1991, and it's still going strong. I also have a 60W iron for soldering to the chassis, that's a cheaper iron and has been replaced. I keep them both hot when I'm working, and bring out the big one whenever the Weller is inadequate. |
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