1965 zenith COLOR! - Page 3 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

radiotron · #31 10-14-2012, 06:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zenithfan1

Yes, they weigh a ton. I think if you removed everything plastic from the whole set, it would fit in one hand, all else is metal. I love these tanks, I have a 23" '67 model on a cart that looks somewhat like this. I have 2 1970 20" models that look very much like it too. One was saved from the dump and was slid on pavement on all sides but the face but works pretty well, the other is mint looking but has something wrong with it. As soon as I can get a decent work area together again, I'll combine the two sets into one perfect one, or maybe get 'em both working right and have a junky looking one with "character"

If I were you, I'd hold onto that one until you're more familiar with working on color sets and in the meantime look for a flyback and any other parts it may need. There are a few white ceramic caps in those that like to explode but that can be fixed with 5 bucks worth of caps, so no biggie. Trust me, if you hold on to it and wait patiently like I just said. You will be happy later.

oh ill have it for a while my grandfather has a flyback in the meantime ill replace the ceramic caps Thanks for the heads up on those caps

*zenithfan1* · #32 10-14-2012, 08:12 PM

You're welcome! BTW, the term we like to use for those is "white time bombs" because they work fine one minute and blow up the next.LOL! I look forward to seeing your set working, I'm glad your Grandpa has a fly for it

Make sure the cathode current on the horizontal output tube is adjusted as low as you can get it, it'll make the fly last a lot longer. 180-200mA is the range to shoot for, there should be a horizontal frequency control on that chassis. I'll bet your Grandpa know this already though. Good luck man!

DaveWM · #33 10-14-2012, 09:17 PM

how did you determine the flyback was bad?

radiotron · #34 10-14-2012, 10:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM

how did you determine the flyback was bad?

Well the hv cage inside was coated over black flyback wax was all bubly, and coming off, and when i replaced the horz. output tube the cabinet rattled like crazy hummed (tuned it off just in time to save the picture tube!)

DaveWM · #35 10-14-2012, 10:47 PM

did it look like this

http://videokarma.org/showpost.php?p...1&postcount=22

flyback can look bad and be ok. You should try to determine its bad before replacing.

DaveWM · #36 10-14-2012, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radiotron

Well the hv cage inside was coated over black flyback wax was all bubly, and coming off, and when i replaced the horz. output tube the cabinet rattled like crazy hummed (tuned it off just in time to save the picture tube!)

The normal failure mode of a flyback is smoke pouring out from it, and maybe the horz output tube red plating. Never heard of a bad one causing a cabinet to rattle nor do I understand the ref to turning it off just in time to save the picture tube. I don't see how a bad flyback could put a picture tube in harms way.

Penthode · #37 10-14-2012, 11:00 PM

The rattle could come from the power transformer if there is a short on the B+ or if there is a shorted rectifier.

Then again I have seen bad HO tubes which have a short oftem accompanied by flashing. A bad tube could perhaps put a heavy load on the B+ which causes the rattle.

What is the source of the tube? Was it tested to be good?

radiotron · #38 10-17-2012, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Penthode

The rattle could come from the power transformer if there is a short on the B+ or if there is a shorted rectifier.

Then again I have seen bad HO tubes which have a short oftem accompanied by flashing. A bad tube could perhaps put a heavy load on the B+ which causes the rattle.

What is the source of the tube? Was it tested to be good?

new old stock tube pulled the hv rectifier out, and it didnt do it,
also after it was on before the tv smelled like bad smoke for the whole week!

= dead king = more money to

radiotron · #39 10-20-2012, 10:01 PM

the crt got a leak the other day

but i got a good strong picture tube for it already in

Tubejunke · #40 10-21-2012, 12:47 AM

If it's any consolation, I was told that the metal cabinet sets are more rare than the wooden cabinets. I have a 1964 model 5111 that I thought might not be as desirable as something with a nicer cabinet. What I was told (and it makes sense) is that the metal cabinet models were indeed lower end in their day, so as they developed problems or were otherwise retired, they were more often tossed as opposed to keeping around forever like people used to do. Often they were used as a stand for that nice new 19" portable that became popular in the late 60s through the 70s. People by then were probably tired of moving large and heavy sets around. Anyway, I hope to get my Zenith going properly sometime soon. I needed room and posted it along with several nice 50s black and white sets for sale and guess which one everybody wanted. It was the one set that I really wanted to keep as I don't have another early color set. I only posted it in hope that it might spark someone to travel here and take several from my collection, but I never got any seriously interested parties, that is unless I would let go of the "roundie!" I wish I had all of the "roundies" that I parted and tossed back in the 80s when you couldn't give one away! I have always thought that the 50s black and white sets were more interesting and easier to properly work on. There is a lot going on in a color set and it takes special equipment and the knowledge of its use to properly set up convergence and such. I am thinking about saving myself the headache and finding one of the few TV service men left around to give my Zenith a once over so that it will be reliable. It made a beautiful color picture after nearly 30 years of dormancy, but it only lasted a few hours and the color turned to black and white with a case of the jitters and a vertical interference line to the far left of the picture. Supposedly a crystal causes the color to go out in a lot of cases. Somebody here sent me a replacement for that, but I never got around to putting it in. The other symptoms that I mention tell me that some capacitors are in order. Finally, I am concerned about the horizontal efficiency coil. Mine is cracked internally, so you can move the end inside of the chassis around while the mounting end remains rigid. I assume that the windings are all that is holding it together and I don't know how much a little bit of movement might effect the inductance. As most people know, the horizontal circuitry in these sets is a very critical point of maintenance, so I better find a replacement if possible. If anyone has some junked chassis and could sell me a good coil I would greatly appreciate it.

radiotron · #41 10-25-2012, 11:18 AM

i pulled the flyback out yesterday the whole bottomside is COOKED!!
bad half the thing is melted to where you can see the inside of it!
Yea i think its bad!

radiotron · #42 10-25-2012, 11:20 AM

my grandpas was for the wrong tv set does anyone have a fly for this, if not its getting junked

DaveWM · #43 10-25-2012, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radiotron

i pulled the flyback out yesterday the whole bottomside is COOKED!!
bad half the thing is melted to where you can see the inside of it!
Yea i think its bad!

You are still making assumptions based on how it looks. That is not the correct way to determine if its the problem. Good luck finding a new one, and if you do hopefully that will be the problem.

http://videokarma.org/showpost.php?p...1&postcount=22

you can try moyers

miniman82 · #44 10-25-2012, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by radiotron

Well the hv cage inside was coated over black flyback wax was all bubly, and coming off, and when i replaced the horz. output tube the cabinet rattled like crazy hummed (tuned it off just in time to save the picture tube!)

It's been said to you before, but I'll say it again:

you need to read some troubleshooting books on TV repair theory, because this NOT the correct way to repair faults.

Just because a flyback melted off its wax doesn't mean it's literally cooked, and a humming sound indicates nothing more than a loose part on the chassis. Sometimes it can mean there's a dead short on the secondary of the power transformer, but I always check for that before I even variac a set. Have you checked for a drive waveform at the horizontal output tube grid yet? Have you checked cathode current? Did you go through the horizontal section setup procedure in Sams? Checked B+ voltages? Ohmed out the flyback windings?

These are just a few of the things I do when servicing a set.