1942 Philco Radio

[Captainclock]

Well Today i got the old Philco mentioned in my previous thread and its a model 42-380 and its got the notorious 6X5 Rectifier tube in it (which from what I read on here is the one that Zenith used on their radios from the same time period that were notorious for shorting out and taking out the power transformer) anyways its got 2 41 Output tubes (push-pull?) for its audio stage so I think this unit might of been a fairly high end unit when it was brand new (and probably still is a high end unit).

Any thoughts?

Also by the way I got for $25 instead of the original $30.

Pics to come later when I get a chance to look over the unit more carefully.

Also something i noticed in this radio is that the power is apparently turned on through one of the pushbuttons on the front instead of through the volume control because the volume control doesn't "click" when turned down all the way.

The Dial string going from the front of the tuning dial fly wheel to the tuning knob is broke so now I have to restring it, hopefully the tuning string on my Philco 46-1203 will work on this radio.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

Well Today i got the old Philco mentioned in my previous thread and its a model 42-380 and its got the notorious 6X5 Rectifier tube in it (which from what I read on here is the one that Zenith used on their radios from the same time period that were notorious for shorting out and taking out the power transformer) anyways its got 2 41 Output tubes (push-pull?) for its audio stage so I think this unit might of been a fairly high end unit when it was brand new (and probably still is a high end unit).

Any thoughts?

Also by the way I got for $25 instead of the original $30.

Pics to come later when I get a chance to look over the unit more carefully.

Also something i noticed in this radio is that the power is apparently turned on through one of the pushbuttons on the front instead of through the volume control because the volume control doesn't "click" when turned down all the way.

The Dial string going from the front of the tuning dial fly wheel to the tuning knob is broke so now I have to restring it, hopefully the tuning string on my Philco 46-1203 will work on this radio.

Don't worry about the 6X5 tube, as long as it's the newer issue 6X5GT. They were less prone to shorting like the earlier ones.
Some of the Philco models of the same era used a #84 tube, which is the same type tube as the 6X5G tube, but uses a 5 pin UX type socket.
The on-off switch is the first push button on the left and was trouble prone.
The 41 output stage is Philco's answer to a push-pull output stage, without a phase inverter.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Don't worry about the 6X5 tube, as long as it's the newer issue 6X5GT. They were less prone to shorting like the earlier ones.
Some of the Philco models of the same era used a #84 tube, which is the same type tube as the 6X5G tube, but uses a 5 pin UX type socket.
The on-off switch is the first push button on the left and was trouble prone.
The 41 output stage is Philco's answer to a push-pull output stage, without a phase inverter.

I see. This thing does have a 6X5GT tube in it, I was also looking around in my tube substitution manuals and it showed an 0Z4G/GT tube was a compatible substitute for the 6X5GT tube, would there be any reason not to use an 0Z4 tube in this circuit?

Also I noticed that the Rider's Manual's tuning string diagram is kind of hard to read, is there anyway I can see how this dial cord is supposed to look so I can restring the dial string going from the tuning knob to the flywheel?

Also I noticed that the presets on this radio are electronic as opposed to being mechanical like on most radios, is there anything I need to look out for with these?

Another thing I noticed is that this radio had what appeared to be a rats nest on the bottom of it (but not sure how the rat could of gotten under there because there wasn't much room for one to get underneath, and the wires from the output transformer to the 41 tube sockets appear to be chewed on (the insulation was chewed through but the wire itself is still intact.) So how would one go about repairing the chewed wires?

So as far as the power button goes, was it supposed to turn on and off the radio by pushing the same button? Or was it supposed to be shut off by pushing two buttons together thus deactivating the power switch?

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

I see. This thing does have a 6X5GT tube in it, I was also looking around in my tube substitution manuals and it showed an 0Z4G/GT tube was a compatible substitute for the 6X5GT tube, would there be any reason not to use an 0Z4 tube in this circuit?

Also I noticed that the Rider's Manual's tuning string diagram is kind of hard to read, is there anyway I can see how this dial cord is supposed to look so I can restring the dial string going from the tuning knob to the flywheel?

Also I noticed that the presets on this radio are electronic as opposed to being mechanical like on most radios, is there anything I need to look out for with these?

Another thing I noticed is that this radio had what appeared to be a rats nest on the bottom of it (but not sure how the rat could of gotten under there because there wasn't much room for one to get underneath, and the wires from the output transformer to the 41 tube sockets appear to be chewed on (the insulation was chewed through but the wire itself is still intact.) So how would one go about repairing the chewed wires?

So as far as the power button goes, was it supposed to turn on and off the radio by pushing the same button? Or was it supposed to be shut off by pushing two buttons together thus deactivating the power switch?

It's probably a mouse. They claim, if the head can go through a hole, the rest of the body will.
Secondly, most radios of the era, the push button was always electronic. Very few had a mechanical arrangement, except the AA5 types and they always had to be fine tuned.
The power button is a push-push type. The same button, is supposed to turn it on and off. Very trouble prone.
Don't use an 0Z4. They're short-lived. There's nothing wrong with the newer 6X5's.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

It's probably a mouse. They claim, if the head can go through a hole, the rest of the body will.
Secondly, most radios of the era, the push button was always electronic. Very few had a mechanical arrangement, except the AA5 types and they always had to be fine tuned.
The power button is a push-push type. The same button, is supposed to turn it on and off. Very trouble prone.
Don't use an 0Z4. They're short-lived. There's nothing wrong with the newer 6X5's.

well actually I have two 1940s vintage Silvertone Radios of which both have a mechanically operated preset pushbutton system (the push buttons actually physically push down on the tuner shaft which physically moves the dial by the force of your finger pushing the preset button) and these radios aren't AA5 designs they have power transformers in them.

Anyways how would I go about repairing the damaged wires that were chewed up by the mice? Like I said the only wires that appear to have any significant damage to them are the wires from the output transformer to the output tube sockets.
Could I just cut the wire off at where the damage ends on the wire and strip it back and reattach the wire to the respective terminals on the tube sockets? There is at least a half a foot of excess wire coming out of the transformer that is still undamaged that I could reroute and then reattach to their respective terminals on said tube sockets.

Also the chassis is absolutely filthy it is caked in a layer of dust about an inch thick and I would like to know how to go about cleaning it off without damaging anything.

Also the dial string going from the tuning knob shaft to the smaller pulley in the fron of the main tuner drive pulley was broken and I was looking through the Rider's Service manual for this radio and the restringing diagram is very hard to read (I can't tell what they're saying as far as how many time I need to go around the tuning knob shaft, or which way I need to go around the pulley when initially stringing the dial cord.) Do you have anyway I can restring the dial cord without having to use the the poorly drawn Rider's diagram?

[dieseljeep]

The term AA5, doesn't necessarily mean a transformerless design. It can mean any five tube superhet, using the same basic circuitry and tube functions.
WA2ISE's website has a well-written explanation of the term.
RE: The dial cord, the Rider's diagram is pretty clear, on the stringing arrangement. It shows, two turns around the tuning shaft. I found, a lot of times, you have to string it up and experiment to see how smooth it works.
The page on the 42-395 might be easier to read.

[rca2000]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

I see. This thing does have a 6X5GT tube in it, I was also looking around in my tube substitution manuals and it showed an 0Z4G/GT tube was a compatible substitute for the 6X5GT tube, would there be any reason not to use an 0Z4 tube in this circuit?

Also I noticed that the Rider's Manual's tuning string diagram is kind of hard to read, is there anyway I can see how this dial cord is supposed to look so I can restring the dial string going from the tuning knob to the flywheel?

Also I noticed that the presets on this radio are electronic as opposed to being mechanical like on most radios, is there anything I need to look out for with these?

Another thing I noticed is that this radio had what appeared to be a rats nest on the bottom of it (but not sure how the rat could of gotten under there because there wasn't much room for one to get underneath, and the wires from the output transformer to the 41 tube sockets appear to be chewed on (the insulation was chewed through but the wire itself is still intact.) So how would one go about repairing the chewed wires?

So as far as the power button goes, was it supposed to turn on and off the radio by pushing the same button? Or was it supposed to be shut off by pushing two buttons together thus deactivating the power switch?

They DO find they way--don't they? Same thing happeed to ME...on a 39-55 MYSTERY DIAL radio. chassis WAS secure too. Between that...and the cabinet getting TOTALLY ruined by water...I had to scrap it.. But...I saved pretty much everything.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by rca2000

They DO find they way--don't they? Same thing happeed to ME...on a 39-55 MYSTERY DIAL radio. chassis WAS secure too. Between that...and the cabinet getting TOTALLY ruined by water...I had to scrap it.. But...I saved pretty much everything.

Yikes and those Mystery Remote Philcos are actually quite scarce compared to the unit I have...

The only problem with mine now is that I'm afraid that my $25 may have been wasted on this unit because after I had restrung the tuner dial string I ended up accidentally knocking the radio on the floor and now the radio dial pointer doesn't want to move anymore with the tuning knob and the dial strings are still in tact and everything, and on top of that one of the rubber supports for the dial glass had turned to brittle plastic and broke into several pieces and I don't know if I can find another one of those rubber dial glass supports anywhere in order to remount the dial glass to the chassis again, so now I'm afraid I may have to scrap this unit out which like I said would be a waste because I never even got to see if I could get it up and running or not...

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

Yikes and those Mystery Remote Philcos are actually quite scarce compared to the unit I have...

The only problem with mine now is that I'm afraid that my $25 may have been wasted on this unit because after I had restrung the tuner dial string I ended up accidentally knocking the radio on the floor and now the radio dial pointer doesn't want to move anymore with the tuning knob and the dial strings are still in tact and everything, and on top of that one of the rubber supports for the dial glass had turned to brittle plastic and broke into several pieces and I don't know if I can find another one of those rubber dial glass supports anywhere in order to remount the dial glass to the chassis again, so now I'm afraid I may have to scrap this unit out which like I said would be a waste because I never even got to see if I could get it up and running or not...

This sort of thing happens as often as not.
When I found the dial glass loose, I just used a couple layers of electrical tape to hold it tightly in the mounting clamps. When working on radios or anything this old, you have to improvise. Look at the people restoring old cars. That's even a bigger PITA than these radios and a lot more costly.
Regarding the dial pointer not moving smoothly, check to see if the frame, where the pointer rides on hasn't been bent, after the fall.
If you read the other entries on this forum, regarding the restorations of the sets, you'll find that a lot of patience has been taken to get the results that they expected!

[Electronic M]

I'd consider adding a turn or two to the tuning knob shaft and or tightening the string if the filing fails.

There is an art to tensioning the string and tying it, sometimes using a stiff enough spring to achieve the tension helps (later sets made tension springs a nearly standard part).

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

I'd consider adding a turn or two to the tuning knob shaft and or tightening the string if the filing fails.

There is an art to tensioning the string and tying it, sometimes using a stiff enough spring to achieve the tension helps (later sets made tension springs a nearly standard part).

I was thinking the exact same thing adding another turn to it or two but I don't have a whole lot of dial string to work with to begin with, I had just enough to make it work with the original restringing instructions and that's it.

[Electronic M]

Look for a junk 70's-90's stereo receiver, and steal it's string, order some online, or look for decent material locally. IIRC fly fishing line tends to be normal line wrapped in cloth.....Perhaps a bait shop could fix you up with some suitable dial string.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by Electronic M

Look for a junk 70's-90's stereo receiver, and steal it's string, order some online, or look for decent material locally. IIRC fly fishing line tends to be normal line wrapped in cloth.....Perhaps a bait shop could fix you up with some suitable dial string.

I could see what I could do.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by Captainclock

I could see what I could do.

Way back, when I first started in this, I used to raid my father's fishing tackle box, for the old style line. Not sure if they still use it for that purpose.
The on-line and mail order old radio part suppliers still sell it.
I bought my dial cord from Bob's antique radios in Illinous.

[Captainclock]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

Way back, when I first started in this, I used to raid my father's fishing tackle box, for the old style line. Not sure if they still use it for that purpose.
The on-line and mail order old radio part suppliers still sell it.
I bought my dial cord from Bob's antique radios in Illinous.

I was kind of curious about your username (I know this is kind of off topic) but I'm guessing you have an actual Diesel powered Jeep?

Also I do have an old Silvertone AM/FM/Phono Console from 1948 that needed its tuning dial restrung but wasn't able to figure out how to restring it as the illustration in the Sam's Photofact that I have for it was very poorly drawn and also because of how tough it is to get to the tuner pulley to attach the string and tension spring, as it has the pushbutton presets and those are directly linked to the tuning capacitor which makes it even harder to access the pulley.