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  #91  
Old 11-26-2018, 10:23 AM
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He *did*. It's my set now
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  #92  
Old 11-26-2018, 10:45 AM
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I was offered a fairly good trade for the 15GP22 so I took it. I paid next to nothing for the Westinghouse, so it was a no brainer.
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  #93  
Old 11-27-2018, 09:22 PM
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UPDATE, NOVEMBER 27, 2018, DAY 119

Good progress on the cabinet restoration. All that remains is to detail the channel selector and volume control knobs which are brass.





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  #94  
Old 11-28-2018, 08:08 PM
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In a word... Nice!
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  #95  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:09 PM
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Thank you. More photos coming.
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  #96  
Old 11-28-2018, 09:13 PM
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UPDATE, NOVEMBER 28, 2018, DAY 120

The cabinet restoration completed and back home, waiting for it’s chassis. Mid-Century styling at its best. Go here to see thumbnails in full resolution.
https://visions4netjournal.com/westi...-carousel-6851

Or here:https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/#


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  #97  
Old 12-05-2018, 03:04 AM
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UPDATE, DECEMBER 4, 2018

The Process continues ….

Greetings Marshall. The process continues. There are 2 more electrolytic “cans” that I need to replace and the screen grid resistor for the horizontal output tubes that is chassis mounted is also in need of replacement. These types of resistors are obsolete so I will be mounting terminal strips to the chassis where the original resistor is in order to make that repair. Also, the modification to the ON/OFF switch with the added relay will be necessary and I need to find one of those relays before I can do that mod. I will be servicing the tuner also, while the chassis is in this position on the bench. I hope to start firing things up within the next month or so in order to determine the condition of things. So far, a lot of capacitors and resistors have been replaced, all in hopes of a positive outcome. When I am finished with the “bottom” of the chassis, at least for now, I will begin the component replacements on the top. Some of those are in the High Voltage cage and there are several others in different circuits that I need to explore. I have attached 2 pictures. The first one is an image of the parts that I have replaced so far. The second is the bottom of the chassis showing the new parts. The image can be compared with the original that I sent previously before the restoration was started.

Cheers, Mike

104 parts replaced.



The beginning, August 12, 2018.



Now, December 4, 2018.

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  #98  
Old 12-10-2018, 03:48 AM
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UPDATE, DECEMBER 9, 2018, DAY 131

Progress continues. There was a power resistor in the screen grid section of the horizontal output tubes that showed very intermittent results with the ohm meter test. It had to be replaced. The original was a chassis mount which is unobtainable. I replaced it with a modern day film type flameproof resistor and it is mounted on to terminal strips. Also, today I finished wiring in the new Vertical Dynamic Convergence transformer. It was necessary to extend the leads in order to make them fit to the proper terminals under the chassis. I also installed a plastic grommet where the wires feed through to the bottom of the chassis from the top. Then I used electronic lacing tape to further strain relief the wires so they are out of the way and close to the top of the chassis. During the process, I replaced the two 6 KV capacitors that are part of the tuning circuits for the convergence adjustments. The wiring from the techs before me was a real mess. I’m sure that if you compare the original bottom view, you will see what I mean.

(Author: Look at second photo in post #97 to see what Mike is talking about)

The following pictures are:
1. The modified screen resistor. The one on the towel in the foreground is the one that was removed.
2. The underside showing the plastic grommet where the high voltage wires feed through from the new transformer. One wire is already connected here.
3. The wires after installation and the electronic lacing tape (double wrapped) to secure the wires to the chassis, out of the way.
4. The finished transformer wiring with the newly installed 6 KV capacitors.

See full resolution photos here: https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/#



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Last edited by etype2; 12-10-2018 at 03:53 AM.
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  #99  
Old 12-10-2018, 10:19 AM
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" There was a power resistor in the screen grid section of the horizontal output tubes that showed very intermittent results with the ohm meter test. It had to be replaced. The original was a chassis mount which is unobtainable. "

Chassis mount resistors are FAR from unattainable. The original candohm style is long out of production, but chassis mount Dale and other types are still made and abundant... heck above Around 50 watts it is almost impossible to find a non-chassis mount type.

Nothing wrong with what he did though. Granted a chassis mount will sink heat to the chassis which can be advantageous for component temperature.
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  #100  
Old 12-21-2018, 01:34 AM
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New update from Mike last night.

UPDATE, DECEMBER 20, 2018, DAY 142

Greetings and Merry Christmas Marshall and family.

The relay that takes the load off the main on/off switch has been installed. The relay is installed on the top of the power supply chassis. There was absolutely no room whatsoever on the bottom of the main chassis and there was plenty of room on the power supply chassis. The brown wire is the one that brings in the power from the main interlock which exists on the main chassis. There were no spare connections available on the original plug assembly. The brown wire has its own separate connecting plug. 3 photos show the placement of the new component on the power supply chassis. Next is the task of removing the tuner, rebuilding it and re-installing it. Then we can get on with powering up the chassis with the sweep circuits disabled. This will allow testing of the tuner, I.F. strip, sync circuits, video amplifiers and hopefully, more.

Cheers, Mike

Author: I’m happy Mike is once again doing this modification. He installed a relay in our 21CT55. In our home whith many appliances running at the same time, if I switch on the 21CT55, I see the lights dim briefly. A lot of current passes through the relay to the power switch. Merry Christmas Mike and VK members.







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Last edited by etype2; 12-21-2018 at 06:38 PM. Reason: Clarity
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  #101  
Old 12-22-2018, 08:06 PM
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I was up at the Museum today (600 or so miles there and back in one day), and Steve was kind enough to let me borrow the mask from the experimental H840CK15 that isn't yet ready for "prime time".

I'm going to get it replicated so that I have one, and might as well get a couple others made while I'm at it.....
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  #102  
Old 12-22-2018, 09:52 PM
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Nice of Steve and a good thing of you to replicate. I’m glad Mr. Folsom had the foresight to have a bunch of VDC transformers replicated for CT100 and Westinghouse collectors.
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  #103  
Old 12-23-2018, 11:02 AM
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Does John still have a decent stock of those left?
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  #104  
Old 12-23-2018, 01:09 PM
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I’m not sure how many he has. We were able to get one as our transformer tested bad.
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  #105  
Old 12-31-2018, 01:23 AM
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Update from Mike, December 30, 2018. Day 152

Greetings Marshall. We are finished with the bottom of the chassis, at least FOR NOW. Picture #1 is the top of the chassis again, and it shows nice clean capacitor cans that have been replaced. The rest of it still needs a lot of cleaning and yet, some more components replaced. For now, it is time to rebuild the tuner since the lubricants have long ago turned to something more like plastic rather than grease or oil. But first, I have snapped a picture of the “HUE” control that you speak of and have asked it to be moved to the front of the chassis. This is not going to happen. The HUE control is NOT a POT. It is a coil. There is a flexible cable that is manufactured to fit the top of the slug of the coil and that is their method of changing the phase relationship of the colors. I do not see a “good” way to move this control. It would be problematic since the controls on the front panel are all below the “plane” of the chassis. Anyway, Picture #1 shows this issue. Picture #2 shows the chassis with the nice new electrolytic cans and a “somewhat” dirty chassis. This will be cleaned up a bit during the next restoration phases.

Picture #3 is before the tuner removal.
Picture #4 is the tuner removed.
Picture #5 is the cover removed and you can now see the corroded condition of the contacts on the channel elements.
Picture #6 Channel strips removed.

Picture #7 Inside tuner main shaft removed.

Picture #8 Tuner contacts and body cleaned. And all resistance values checked.
Picture #9 Main shaft and Fine Tuning shaft before cleaning.
Picture #10 Fine tuning shaft, contact spring and detent wheel before cleaning.
Picture #11 Parts ready for re-assembly.
Picture #11 Parts ready for re-assembly.
Picture #12 Drum and detent installed.
Picture #13. All strips re-installed, the cover is on and the tuner is ready to re-install.

Tap on images to enlarge. See this link to view 13 images full size. https://visions4netjournal.com/westinghouse/



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