Pioneer LC-V300 LaserKaraoke Autochanger

[MIPS]

Single tower unit, same controller and you have all the additional karaoke support components including the coin acceptor and amplifier.
You are correct in that there seems to be no documentation but at least the manual for the controller should be the same.
Unfortunately I've had a server crash about two weeks ago and I do not have access to most of my data currently. I ended up spending something like $15 to buy a PDF copy of the manual online.

[TheKman]

Extra auto changer player.

[MIPS]

Okay, here's the service manual. For those who want it I'll keep it up for a week and then for the sake of my dropbox bandwidth I will have to take it down, so grab it while you can! It's a 30mb pdf.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbe2wsi7hh...00svc.pdf?dl=0

[cornponious]

Originally Posted by MIPS

Okay, here's the service manual. For those who want it I'll keep it up for a week and then for the sake of my dropbox bandwidth I will have to take it down, so grab it while you can! It's a 30mb pdf.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wbe2wsi7hh...00svc.pdf?dl=0

Greetings, programs. I'd like to slip into this conversation. I recently acquired an LC-V300 and I'm fairly ecstatic over it. The problem, though, is that it is dead. No power whatsoever. Here's what i've done:

I removed the ACRY unit and examined it. According to the service manual, there should be 120VAC at the transformer connection, but I am only measuring 47VAC. So, I started looking at individual components (which are practically impossible to find today, though I did just find yesterday a 25 pack of the KC103P capacitors on eBay). The capacitors appeared to test ok. The relay, when i plug the board into the wall, did not click, however I did desolder it and manually connected it to my motorcycle battery and it at least did click then (Ive ordered a replacement that matches the pin layout and the specs, minus the TV rating). I desoldered the diode and it tested ok.

I then desoldered the induction coil (L50 on the board) and it tests at or around zero, which indicates it is bad. So, my question is how do I determine what an adequate replacement part would be for it? There are no specs marked on it, only what appears to be a part number which turns up zilch in a google search. The service manual does not list this part for the ACRY unit, but it DOES list a filter (denoted as F50 in the manual, despite the fact there is NO F50 on the board), so I was thinking maybe this was a typo because an induction coil can be considered a filter. so, the service manual lists this "filter" as part number DTF1012.

At pacparts they have a listing for that part, and the order page for it says it is not in stock, but is available for order. I ordered the part yesterday morning, but today was issued a refund because **surprise!!** the part isn't ACTUALLY available.

So, I'm stuck and at a loss. Do any of you have any suggestions?

[MIPS]

If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.

[cornponious]

Originally Posted by MIPS

If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.

Thank you for the reply! Based on my reading, a reading below 1 (which in the case of this inductor, it is at or slightly above zero) means a bad inductor. But I'm willing to take other advice on that. I did not test the transformer. I only tested the output on the ACRY unit board on the posts where the transformer connects. The service manual shows there should be 120VAC there, but I only read 47VAC. So, that's 47VAC going INTO the transformer.

I have not checked all fuses on every board, but only the one fuse on the ACRY board. Continuity on that fuse checks OK.

I attached an image. The posts in the red square are where I tested and showed 47VAC rather than the 120VAC as stated. That CN550 connection is where the transformer attaches.

[cornponious]

Originally Posted by MIPS

If I am remembering inductors correct, a resistance at or right next to 0 is fine.
I'd be verifying that it's not the transformer at fault as you know the wrong voltage is comping out of it, but you didn't say what was going in. I believe the tap numbering is listed in the service manual.

Also verify your entire bank of fuses are good with a continuity check. Sometimes when I get weird voltages on a feed circuit it's a cartridge fuse that's gone bad.

And here is the inductor in question. I can't even find any information online for how to determine the inductance of this coil, regarding the specific text on the side. Nothing I have found seems to match the type of text on the inductor. And there are no other markings anywhere on this inductor. It's very confusing to me.

[Telecolor 3007]

Holly smoke! You got yourself a LaserDisc changer?
I thought that you "Nationa/N.C.R." Class 52 cash register was something, but this is really mindblowing. Hope you will make it work.

[Francis]

Not sure if there is anything I can help in this discussion which has been going on for a few years.

I own one set of Pioneer LC-V200 and one Autochanger Commander CO-C200, Remote Control Unit CU-V132 and user manuals. The unit has been working perfectly over the past 25 years.

The Remote Control Unit CU-V132 has the buttons Play/Start, Stop, Number keyboard 0 to 9, A, B, Clear, Enter, Skip and Scan backward & forward, pause, mute, display, audio, Digital/Analog (meaning No Vocal/with Vocal in Karaoke).

[MIPS]

Well that confirms for me that the remote I brought back from Tokyo is the correct remote. Most of the functions worked however since I don't have the extra audio effects and amplifier modules the pitch controls and the likes don't work.

[Francis]

Originally Posted by MIPS

Well that confirms for me that the remote I brought back from Tokyo is the correct remote. Most of the functions worked however since I don't have the extra audio effects and amplifier modules the pitch controls and the likes don't work.

I am using a Pioneer CLD-V840 (with a remote) for pitch control with 3 buttons
"low" "Normal" "High" - the pitch can go up or down to 5 levels and returns to normal with the "Normal" button. Just connect the left and right audio out from the changer to the "AUX in" jacks and then out through the "Audio out" jacks to a Sony TA-E2000ESD Pre-amp (with remote) and then through a Mackie Profx8 mixer before the signal goes into the power amp to drive the speakers. The Sony Pre-amp and the Mackie mixer has all the audio effects.

[Slimbo]

Hi Guys and Gals. So I have a LC-V330 and would love to be able to operate the darn thing.

Can I hook up to a PC with a 9 pin to 25 Pin RS-232 cable ?
Anyone know of a " Autochanger Commander " going ?

Somewhere I read a Ru-V101 remote can operate the machine, so of coarse i bought it and it has a earplug jack on it which no matter how many beers i have, will not fit into the 25 pin serial.

HELP !