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  #1  
Old 04-25-2024, 12:52 AM
drwatson32 drwatson32 is offline
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Fixing Zenith CCII Avante 25JC49

Hello! As a bit of an intro, I'm Ian in NE Ohio- local to the Zenith console tv that had been on eBay for several months. (eventually picking it up) https://www.ebay.com/itm/204588597529

I've never serviced a CRT before, but have restored a handful of tube radios and amps. Not quite the same high voltages, but I'm well acquainted with things that want to bite. I had decided that I'd like to find a Chromacolor II given their longevity, it might be the last CRT I'd ever need. (Truth be told, I built a Pixelmusic 3000 and also wanted a TV that looked the part, something neat to look at while playing music) https://ctrl-alt-rees.com/2020-11-26...-parallax.html

I never found anything local to me after 5 months of daily checking classifieds, but had been eyeballing this Avante console on ebay, wondering if I'd be happy with a console and be able to figure it out if I made a lowball offer that was accepted. Seller was asking a crazy (to me) $299 for a non-working TV that was missing the remote and (this kills my soul) they sold the base separately to someone who messaged them, so I made a lowball $20 offer explaining why this was such a hard sell, took their $50 counter offer.

The description made mention of the TV flipping the breaker, so when I brought it home, I blew out all the dust and powered the TV up with 60v on my variac. Fortunately, this allowed the TV to stay running, and sure enough, the tripler was arcing to the chassis. Of course there doesn't seem to be any of this tripler available on the internet. For the time being, I dismounted the tripler, found the crack in it, filled it with epoxy, let that cure, slathered that in a coat of RTV silicone, let it cure, and brought the TV up to full power. No more lightning! Between waiting for things to cure, I went ahead and cleaned out all the front panel control pots with contact cleaner and followed with Deoxit F5. I also saw enough threads that said to do it as a matter of course, so I resoldered the long ceramic IC on the 9-89 video output module. (Side notes- the safety capacitor that is always mentioned with CCII tvs was already the replacement orange one, and yes, I shorted the CRT per all the guides out there before getting my hands in there)

To this ignorant mind, the TV seemed to be working pretty good, just vertical size, convergence, probably other things being pretty off. I ordered a set of Philmore trimmer tools off Amazon, they came, seem to be trash & sending back, 3D printed a tool in PETG that seems to fit & work fine.

That brings me to tonight- I was using said 3D printed tool to make some adjustments per the Sams manual (nabbed that free from Cleveland library) using 240p Suite on a Sega Genesis : P

HOWEVER, this being the reason I decided to finally get on here, and get a 'build thread' of sorts started- I've become aware of something in the high voltage area softly making a sizzling bacon sort of noise while running. I couldn't see any arc or corona activity, variac is reporting a constant 1amp draw @120v (I have a cool 50's one with gauges lol) I also can't detect any ozone odor. Any thoughts on this? Thanks for the time!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg inside.jpg (140.1 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg crack_burn.jpg (89.0 KB, 20 views)
File Type: jpg rtv.jpg (101.6 KB, 19 views)
File Type: jpg tabs_found_inside.jpg (146.3 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Weatherstar.jpg (113.2 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg convergence.jpg (143.7 KB, 27 views)
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  #2  
Old 04-25-2024, 08:49 PM
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damen damen is offline
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Discharge the high voltage again and clean the red high voltage lead, the cup that attaches to the CRT, and the glass area surrounding the cup with a clean rag and alcohol. Let dry quite a while. It may also be that the cracked tripler has moisture in it. It will either bake itself dry, or fail again. Time will tell.
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Old 04-26-2024, 12:13 AM
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Electronic M Electronic M is offline
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One nice thing about most tripplers sets that have a focus tap is they usually obtained focus via a high resistance divider off the HV output and because of that would self discharge the HV better than shorting does... Still doesn't hurt to double check it's discharged after all the times HV has bit me I can confirm it's not dangerous, but is definitely unpleasant.
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Old 04-26-2024, 08:52 AM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Post the OEM tripler part # I will check for subs
Format is 212-###-##
Patching old one is not good, only for a test.
Check the CRT focus pin for the arc also. Several fixes. Cross that bridge
if you come to it.

73 Zeno
LFOD !
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Old 04-26-2024, 01:11 PM
drwatson32 drwatson32 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by damen View Post
Discharge the high voltage again and clean the red high voltage lead, the cup that attaches to the CRT, and the glass area surrounding the cup with a clean rag and alcohol. Let dry quite a while. It may also be that the cracked tripler has moisture in it. It will either bake itself dry, or fail again. Time will tell.
That makes sense, it's probably been cracked open for 40 years. I'll give things a clean.

damen: Maybe that's why I didn't get any audible click when shorting the anode. That was unsettling in that I found myself double checking alligator clips, coming in from different angles, etc : P

zeno: the part number is 212-149 From prior threads, I got the impression that this is an oddball one but it would be nice if there are subs. Duly noted about using the patched one. I'll keep that to a minimum.

Thanks for the replies!
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Old 04-26-2024, 01:59 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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https://picclick.com/Zenith-977-45-T...214479930.html

note sub number. I have no idea who they are !
BTW not in 1978 Zenith parts list. Thats about when they switched
from the common 212-141-## AKA 977-36.

zeno
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  #7  
Old 04-26-2024, 10:22 PM
drwatson32 drwatson32 is offline
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So far, from past sales, it seems like the box these came in had both numbers printed on it, but the same 212-149 marked part inside. The one in the attached pic sold on eBay in March, so it seems they appear from time to time. Keeping an eye out. Thanks!


I also wanted to add that I found an old thread here where it was said that this cross references to an ECG561. https://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=262454
There is a used one on eBay, but I'm a bit wary that the pins being labeled differently, namely 2 of them labeled FOC instead of one being REF. Could anyone confirm that this correct?
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File Type: jpg tripler.JPG (25.7 KB, 16 views)

Last edited by drwatson32; 04-27-2024 at 12:40 AM.
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  #8  
Old 04-27-2024, 03:41 PM
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zeno zeno is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drwatson32 View Post
So far, from past sales, it seems like the box these came in had both numbers printed on it, but the same 212-149 marked part inside. The one in the attached pic sold on eBay in March, so it seems they appear from time to time. Keeping an eye out. Thanks!


I also wanted to add that I found an old thread here where it was said that this cross references to an ECG561. https://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=262454
There is a used one on eBay, but I'm a bit wary that the pins being labeled differently, namely 2 of them labeled FOC instead of one being REF. Could anyone confirm that this correct?
Be careful of that one. It may be for an EFL CRT, that would have 2 focus
terminals. EFL is "extended field lens" or "tri focus CRT" big difference
is it has 3 focus grids. VERY bright & sharp. Came out in H chassii on
high end 17 & 19" sets. 13" & 25 " were added in the L chassis.

Zeno
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