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  #31  
Old 02-09-2017, 10:58 AM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm pretty much done cleaning up the chassis top. I still have to do underneath. I didn't use the steel wool. It started to shed and I didn't want those little shavings getting everywhere.

I did remove the big solder blobs that were at each adjustable coil. these will be re-soldered, but neatly this time.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 02-09-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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  #32  
Old 02-09-2017, 08:43 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I cleaned up the adjustable coils on the top of the chassis in preparation to solder the caps to the chassis. I used my 150 soldering iron to apply a small amount of solder to form a nice fillet.



I then noticed that the hold down screws on T107 were over torqued. It looks awful.



So I pulled the transformer and disassembled it. I straightened the screws. While I had it apart I dusted it off and cleaned it gently with some alcohol. These pics are before I cleaned the coil.





I reassembled the transformer and cleaned up the case and terminals. Ready to install.



Re-installed and ready to wire. I'll do that later while I'm recapping etc. I also cleaned up the case on T108.



Next up will be to paint the top transformer cover. The transformer underneath looks very good.

My order from Digikey came in already and while the transformer paint is drying, I'll re-stuff the caps.
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  #33  
Old 02-11-2017, 06:13 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Time to re-stuff the E-Caps!

There are 5 of them. The ones that came off the set are on the left and what I'm going to use is on the right. 4 of them use the cardboard covers. One cardboard cover on a shorter caps was already removed when somebody did the partial restoration.

What I plan on doing is to use 5 new bases because I don't want the twisty mounting ears to break off when installing them in the chassis. The cans that use the cardboard covers will be cut off about 1/2 above the base. Then I'll epoxy a PVC sleeve to the base. Install the new caps and slide on the cutoff can. Then slide on the cardboard cover.

The 1 E-Cap that does not have a cover, the can will be cut off right at the base. The base and can will be trued up and again a PVC sleeve will be epoxied to the base. I'll install the new caps, and slide on the polished up can.

I'm using all Nichicon 105 degree caps and most are at least 10,000 hour caps.

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  #34  
Old 02-11-2017, 07:16 PM
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Reece Reece is offline
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That chassis looks great all cleaned up. Was just thinking, if makers of slug-tuned radio IF transformers had made them that way, with the little ceramic caps instead of the silver mica jobs, we wouldn't have SMD today. But I'm sure it would have cost more.
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  #35  
Old 02-11-2017, 07:22 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Reece View Post
That chassis looks great all cleaned up. Was just thinking, if makers of slug-tuned radio IF transformers had made them that way, with the little ceramic caps instead of the silver mica jobs, we wouldn't have SMD today. But I'm sure it would have cost more.
Right! As I'm working on this TV, I have noticed the "step up" on the quality of the design. That coil was beefy and well made.
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  #36  
Old 02-11-2017, 09:09 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I started by cutting of the base of the donor cap for the tall uncovered capacitor (C116). I use my band saw and shim the can up from the table of the saw using a piece of 1/16 plywood. This gives me a more even cut.





Then on the 4 other donor caps I marked up from the base 3/8. I know I said 1/2 but 3/8 will work just as good.



Here is what it looks like inside of the donor caps after cutting off the bases.



And a shot after I removed the guts from them.



Then I took the old uncovered C116 and cut its base off as low as I can go. You can see a little bit of the phenolic base still attached to the upper cans guts.



C116 the tall uncovered cap with its guts pulled.



The other 2 tall covered E-caps (C127 and C128) with the bases cut off. These bases were cut off with a 3/8 lip to them so that when these cans are mated to the donor bases they will be the correct height.



Here C127 and C128 with their guts pulled.



And finally here is the line up of the 5 E-Caps. L to R are the 2 short covered ones C131 and C132, then the 2 tall covered ones C127 and C128, and finally the tall uncovered cap C116.


Last edited by Crist Rigott; 02-11-2017 at 09:25 PM.
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  #37  
Old 02-12-2017, 10:34 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I cleaned and deburred the cans and bases.

I then made the PVC sleeves from PVC pipe I got at the Home Depot. I true up 1 end on my disc sander using the 90 degree guide. Then I mark the trued end with an arrow. This is the end that will be glued to the base. I true that end up so the can will stick straight on the assembly.
I then mark off a 1 inch cut line and cut it off using my band saw. I then clean up both ends using my #11 hobby knife and sandpaper. This is repeated for all 5 sleeves.



The sleeves are then epoxied to the bases using 15 minute epoxy. I only apply the epoxy to the edge that will rest on the bottom in the base. In the case of C116 were the base is cut off even, I visually align the sleeve to the base.

I then made up my capacitor assemblies. I used Nichicon 105 degree caps that I get from Digikey. The caps are hot glued together and wired using 6oo volt wire. The assembly is put into position in the base and the the insulation of the wires are marked. The assembly is removed from the base and the wires are stripped at the marks.

I use hot glue to glue the caps into the bases. I usually glob on a big dollop and then insert the caps into the bases. This is allowed to set up and the the wires are soldered to the proper terminal. The ground wire is left unconnected till the cap is inserted into the chassis, then it is soldered to a twisty tab.

Here is a picture of C127. BTW, I used 47uf caps instead of the 40uf called for, a 22uf instead of the 20uf, a 82uf instead of the 80uf, and a 270uf instead of the 250uf.



Here is a picture of C116 before the caps are inserted into the base. It has 4 caps.



Another view.



The base of C116 with the wires soldered to the terminal.



Top side of C116.

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  #38  
Old 02-12-2017, 11:40 PM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures.
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  #39  
Old 02-12-2017, 11:52 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
Crist, What kind of blade you have in your band saw that cuts those cans so smoothly? Or have you already cleaned and de-burred your donor cans before you took those first pictures.

I think it is an Olson 1/4 .014 14tpi. Haven't cleaned them up yet.
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  #40  
Old 02-13-2017, 12:02 AM
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Kevin Kuehn Kevin Kuehn is offline
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So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator.
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  #41  
Old 02-13-2017, 10:26 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn View Post
So that's a fairly thin, primarily for wood cutting blade? Anyhow it sure cuts smooth, but I'm sure that has a whole lot to do with the saw operator.
The band saw is a Delta 9" table top. I use it primarily for my model airplanes. Usually 1/4 5 ply plywood at the most. Also the blade is fairly new since December.
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  #42  
Old 02-13-2017, 10:32 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm done with the E-Caps.

I cleaned off the Mallory labels on the 3 tall caps. I then polished C116 can using Mothers Mag wheel polish. Followed by 2 coats of wax.

I then placed the cans on each cap and taped them so the can wouldn't come off when simply removing the cover. I use 3M Multi-Task tape for this. It is not like scotch tape. It goes on smooth and you can remove it in one piece. I use this stuff to seal the hinge gap on my control line model airplanes.

C116, the tall uncovered cap, the can is simply placed on the base. It is protected from getting all scratched up.



Here is a picture of the tape that I use:

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  #43  
Old 02-13-2017, 11:48 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Oh wow! You're into model planes? Is there a forum where you hang out? Do you fly stuff other than CL? 'Pologies for the thread hijak.
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  #44  
Old 02-14-2017, 01:57 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
Oh wow! You're into model planes? Is there a forum where you hang out? Do you fly stuff other than CL? 'Pologies for the thread hijak.
I hang out at "Stunt Hangar".
Here is a link to my latest build. It is a control line stunter. I fly stunt in competition. We are judged on how well we do mandatory stunts like loops, squares, triangles, figure 8"s etc. We are also judged on well the airplane is built and finished.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-al...ter-build-log/

I also fly some R/C. Here is a link to a build log on my Falcon 56.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Scratch-Build
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  #45  
Old 02-14-2017, 02:06 PM
Crist Rigott Crist Rigott is offline
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I'm cleaning up the yoke mount today and noticed that there is some black paint looking stuff under and aft of the rubber bumpers for the CRT. I thought it just might be some black paint at first. Then I thought why would they paint that area black? It doesn't make sense.

Then when cleaning it off, it seemed to be almost rubbery? Then I remembered that when full sized airplane have rubber deice boots installed, we used to apply a small amount of black conductive paint to the boot and overlap on to the aluminum. This was used to conduct the static electricity built up on the rubber boot during flight to the airframe where it can be disapated off the airframe through the static wick dischargers.

Do you think that what this stuff is?

Here are 2 pictures showing what I mean:



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