#61
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Wouldn't it be cool if mine was one of those? Wonder what "adjustments" those experts are doing in the publicity photo? Checking to see if the top covers fit?
Phil Nelson Last edited by Phil Nelson; 02-20-2014 at 05:30 PM. |
#62
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Quote:
-Steve D.
__________________
Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site: http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/ Last edited by Steve D.; 02-01-2017 at 03:52 PM. |
#63
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How much was the cost to ship the empty box?
Always wondered..... SR |
#64
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I cost just under $180 to FedEx the empty box coast-to-coast. It's the size that made it expensive; the shipper told me it could have weighed up to 200 pounds without increasing that charge. (UPS would have cost even more, if you're wondering). My box was about 2-3 inches taller than it really needed to be. I don't know if making it shorter would have gotten it under some size limit.
I couldn't resist setting the new tube into the cabinet and trying on the retainer ring. That anode connection is awfully close to the ring. Seems like you're asking for trouble (arcing) if you don't cut away some of the ring. Looking ahead to when I really install it, the tube has an aquadag coating, so I guess that means fashioning a ground connection. I don't have any use for the old insulating skirt. I wonder if it would be useful to cut away the bottom of the skirt and retain the rest (the waist, if you will) to go between this ring and the tube's neck and bell? I could even pigtail onto the old ultor connection -- which is built into the skirt -- to make the new aquadag connection. (I already cut off most of the old ultor lead to make my new anode lead.) That would mean cutting a hole in the skirt for the anode lead, of course. On the other hand, if I butcher the skirt, I couldn't reuse it in the remote event that I run across a good 21AXP22 or have mine rebuilt . . . . Phil Nelson |
#65
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Interesting stuff.
For a dag connection use flat braided wire with a spring to pull things tight. Anode is too close, cut out a large half moon. Insulate with a piece of plastic with a channel, get from a 70's era Zenith. Others may have used them, dont remember. They went on the DGS shield. Use the large brown single wire anode connector from a Zenith tripler like a 221-141-**. Very common & the heaviest anode I remember. We used them for all replacements. PN's are 15-276 & 15-276-01 one has 2 holes for HV & focus divider & the other just one hole. Most had a screw to put them on. 73 Zeno |
Audiokarma |
#66
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Quote:
Good luck Phil! Kevin |
#67
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Phil,
When I purchased my CTC-5 Wingate, many years ago, the previous owner had already had the 21AXP22A tube replaced w/a 21FB22. RCA provided a conversion kit that allowed for the installation with a retaining ring that attached directly to the rear of the mask. No struts required and plenty of clearance room for the anode lead. I don't recall ever seeing another kit like this in other sets. -Steve D.
__________________
Please visit my CT-100, CTC-5, vintage color tv site: http://www.wtv-zone.com/Stevetek/ Last edited by Steve D.; 02-01-2017 at 03:52 PM. |
#68
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Thanks, that is excellent information. I wish I could install the CRT and try to fire it up tomorrow, but with so many things packed up and no suitable place to work, that ain't gonna happen. At least I can try to collect the right materials in the meantime.
Phil Nelson |
#69
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Phil,
I couldn't find the original brochure, but I did find a scanned copy in my CTC-4 binder. The scans aren't too good, but can be read. At least the recommended dimensions are given for notching the flange, along with advise about supporting the bottom of the mask assembly, as the glass tube is much more heavy than the 21AX. Kevin |
#70
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On my CTC-4 I was able to get away with not cutting the skirt and instead use a modern anode lead salvaged from a 90's BPC set and a few layers of thick plastic ziplock bag type material stuffed between the skirt and the HV suction cup. Back when I was active with that project it did not seem to allow any arcing or corona.
I feel it is best not to cut or modify any of the original mounting hardware as you never know when a good 21AXP might surface. Going with that thinking I saved the unmolested bell insulator as is from my set and refrained from cutting the HV lead to have the plug. I was able to make a decent HV plug by striping a good length of spare HV cable folding the wire neatly and tinning the strands together with solder....There are better solutions to the plug then I implemented, but my way does work. With how perfect your set is I strongly encourage you to not do any thing permanent to mount a different type of CRT which may end up only being a temporary substitute.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
Audiokarma |
#71
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Yes, I'm always in favor of the least-destructive solution. Today I laid my hands on a modern anode lead. Perhaps I will try that with some insulating layers between the anode cup and the metal ring (and one hand hovering over the power plug).
Phil Nelson |
#72
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Good suggestion, Tom. I also would like to keep my 4 as original as possible. I installed a 21FB in a CTC-7 once, and used a Cool Whip top cut in half with GC high voltage putty between the halves. I wedged it between the ring and the CRT with great results, no arcing. I know Cool Whip is still available, but I don't know about the putty. I'm pretty sure a sub could be found to work.
Kevin |
#73
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I tried using just a modern anode cap all by itself on my set before I had a good 21AXP22, but it would create random loud telltale 'snaps' as it would arc right through the silicone. 25kv ain't nothin to fool with, I would either cut the support you have or find a very slim anode cap and add additional insulation.
__________________
Evolution... |
#74
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Quote:
I might be able to get that article through an inter-library loan (to make a better scan) if I can tell them the desired issue. As I read the first page, it is Sylvania News Technical Section, Summer-Fall 1965, volume 12, no. 2. Phil Nelson |
#75
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I think you can still buy Cambric insulating cloth from Antique Radio Supply. This stuff is great for HV insulation. I would put several layers of it under the bell and over the anode connection. This way you don't destroy anything original.
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Audiokarma |
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