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  #1  
Old 06-24-2015, 08:41 AM
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SwizzyMan SwizzyMan is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QNtsTKVPO7I

at about 7:00 it talks about setting up purity.

Before doing anything else I recommend you look on ebay for an RCA color service manual by carl babcoke.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/RCA-COLOR-TV-...3D311360906136

oh and start looking for a degaussing coil.
I just picked up the book. Is there any way I could make my own degaussing coil or use one from a modern day tv?
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  #2  
Old 06-30-2015, 08:12 PM
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Looks like there still could be issues with the vertical.. As for the swirlyness in certain areas of the pic, that could possibly be the Leader pattern generator.. Those things usually need to be recapped to function properly.. I have one also that's a bit touchy.. The convergence is off quite a bit I see..
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Last edited by tvcollector; 06-30-2015 at 08:18 PM.
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  #3  
Old 06-30-2015, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvcollector View Post
Looks like there still could be issues with the vertical.. As for the swirlyness in certain areas of the pic, that could possibly be the Leader pattern generator.. Those things usually need to be recapped to function properly.. I have one also that's a bit touchy.. The convergence it off quit a bit I see..
Well I hooked up the leader to my flatscreen and my 8-pt-7032T and there were no issues whatsoever. But I guess I should try replacing some resistors maybe or just replace everything in the vertical board?
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  #4  
Old 06-30-2015, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwizzyMan View Post
Well I hooked up the leader to my flatscreen and my 8-pt-7032T and there were no issues whatsoever. But I guess I should try replacing some resistors maybe or just replace everything in the vertical board?
def do NOT replace everything on the vert board until you have tried the adjustments AND tube swapping.

Yes you may need to replace some parts, but best to do one thing at a time with starting with the least invasive.

If that does not work then you want to look at the type of cap, not all are prone to failure. Resistors have to be way off before you start getting issues. I rarely find them to be the issue EXCEPT the plate load resistor that are connected to the boost voltage in the vert. since this is your 1st set IF it comes to that, you should only replace one or two parts at a time. there are a couple in the osc circuit that can be critical, but generally only need to be deal with if the adjustment pots can not bring into working range.
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Old 06-30-2015, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveWM View Post
def do NOT replace everything on the vert board until you have tried the adjustments AND tube swapping.

Yes you may need to replace some parts, but best to do one thing at a time with starting with the least invasive.

If that does not work then you want to look at the type of cap, not all are prone to failure. Resistors have to be way off before you start getting issues. I rarely find them to be the issue EXCEPT the plate load resistor that are connected to the boost voltage in the vert. since this is your 1st set IF it comes to that, you should only replace one or two parts at a time.
well I did replace all the browndrops and one HV cap on the vert and I replaced both 6aq5a's with their military counterpart 9005. But it was a lot worse before I recapped.
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  #6  
Old 06-30-2015, 08:40 PM
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Messed with the linearity and centering and this is what I got http://i.imgur.com/ydnXUyy.jpg
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2015, 07:39 PM
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I agree with Dave and Phil, cutting the cans like that makes it easier.. You can always use a little epoxy to remount the can, and probably a good wack will crack them open again if someone needs to get in them again.. I restuffed the cans for the first time on my GE set and I thought I did a wonderful job, I also watched alot of Bob's, Dave's, and Shango's videos on youtube before I even started restoring, so some things just came naturally...
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  #8  
Old 07-02-2015, 01:42 PM
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Don't expect much from the CTC-7 chassis before you've completely recapped the vertical and horizontal section, along with the power supply. Mine had wax dripping out of every single one, a sure sign they have bought the farm.
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  #9  
Old 07-02-2015, 06:23 PM
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Would it be a good idea to try convergence and purity now? Or should I recap more?
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  #10  
Old 07-02-2015, 06:55 PM
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Don't waste your time on color adjustments until you have a perfect (well, good enough to satisfy you long-term) black and white picture. Nice contrast and focus, correct vertical and horizontal linearity, etc.

Phil Nelson
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  #11  
Old 07-02-2015, 08:24 PM
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I am very inclined to just shotgun replace everything but the ceramic caps in the horizontal and vertical boards. Resistors included.
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  #12  
Old 07-02-2015, 10:14 PM
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you never responded about the 400v side only the 270v (204v).
You need to respond to each of my questions, in order, otherwise it is very hard to diagnose. I am asking these questions for specific reasons.

While its ok to shot gun replace paper caps, it is rarely needed for resistors.

You need to stay on track answer the questions as asked, then make the corrective actions in the order given. If not its pointless to ask for help.
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  #13  
Old 07-03-2015, 01:45 AM
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Ceramic disk caps usually don't fail.. And it's only a handful of resistors that fail.. Shot gunning components that don't need to be replaced only gives you a higher chance of messing something else up.. Some people may choose to replace the electrolytic cans even if they are fine, and some people even replace the film orange drop caps on the critical area such as the sweep board.. Going and trying to replace every component in a set is not a good idea at all...
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  #14  
Old 07-09-2015, 06:39 PM
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I used mainly used a 47 to replace a 50, seems a bit closer to the value, but I don't know, is 56 better?
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  #15  
Old 07-09-2015, 06:51 PM
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47 is fine for a 50. big tolerances on those.
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