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  #1  
Old 05-24-2023, 01:08 PM
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Another annoying thing with this TV, is that “Instant On” was enabled, most likely for a very long time, which must have cooked the heck out of these poor old tubes.
Also, not seeing full vertical deflection, and linearity is a tad off, also a sign of bad caps and resistors in the sweep PCB.
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Old 05-24-2023, 02:10 PM
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I found out why that one 6GH8A made something smoke like it did, I really don't think the getter is supposed to upside down in there like that... it broke off!
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Old 05-24-2023, 11:28 PM
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i did find what smoked.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/smoke11.jpg

R164 went up in value R165 went down.

both replaced.
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Old 05-25-2023, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
i did find what smoked.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/smoke11.jpg

R164 went up in value R165 went down.

both replaced.
The cause was a short in the tube that causes excessive cathode current?
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Old 05-25-2023, 10:23 AM
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The cause was a short in the tube that causes excessive cathode current?
Yes, the getter completely come off, stand and all, and was loose in the top, I had not not noticed it, was only on for about 30-40 sec, before i saw smoke and shut it off, resistors may have already been weak, not sure.
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Old 05-25-2023, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
Yes, the getter completely come off, stand and all, and was loose in the top, I had not not noticed it, was only on for about 30-40 sec, before i saw smoke and shut it off, resistors may have already been weak, not sure.
Are you sure that the metal getter didn't short the elements in the tube when it was flopping/flopped around? Short between elements might have caused the problem.
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Old 05-25-2023, 01:23 PM
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Are you sure that the metal getter didn't short the elements in the tube when it was flopping/flopped around? Short between elements might have caused the problem.
I'm sure it did, but it was only on for 30-40 seconds with the bad tube, how fast do resistors fry?
There was also heat marks on the PCB under these 2 parts already, I suspect they were already on the way out, and putting in the bad tube did not help it! :P
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Old 05-25-2023, 08:42 AM
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One thing about the PCBs used in this maggie TV, they are much more dense / thick than the ones used in RCA, GE and others I have worked on in the past, example, previously I have been able to take my work light (halogen hand lamp) and point it at the top of the board, and see light through the PCB, along with the shadow of the offending component from the bottom side, but not with this Magnavox :O no light at all gets though the board!
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Old 05-25-2023, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
One thing about the PCBs used in this maggie TV, they are much more dense / thick than the ones used in RCA, GE and others I have worked on in the past, example, previously I have been able to take my work light (halogen hand lamp) and point it at the top of the board, and see light through the PCB, along with the shadow of the offending component from the bottom side, but not with this Magnavox :O no light at all gets though the board!
I noticed that too. I like my T931’s build quality. 2000s solid state TVs have PCBs that are as thin as two sheets of paper.

The one thing I do not lile about the T931 (and the T933 as the same design) is that it doesn’t use DC reinsertion, but instead uses partial DC coupling of the DC bias from the video detector. This causes inconsistent black levels, especially for super bright scenes, which cause black crush.

I am tempted to add a diode clamper to make brightness more consistent between scenes.
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Old 05-25-2023, 01:50 PM
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Well, all the others in the area seem to check OK, it was most likely being fed by the big 4w resistor on the triode plate P1.
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Old 05-25-2023, 03:52 PM
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Yeah, the tuner was very dirty, it was a bitch to get out because of the silly front screw in system they use that you have some odd key to unscrew. >>>>

The screws with 2 holes come out with long needle noses. They also
used 2 sizes of inside out nuts. I saw everyone fighting them so called
Maggy FS to get part ##'s & ordered 2 sets. I told the techs if they lost them they will build stands for 60 days

BTW many sets had a 'lytic on the conv PCB, causes bad V lin. IIRC
this had it ?

Zeno
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Old 05-25-2023, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by zeno View Post
Yeah, the tuner was very dirty, it was a bitch to get out because of the silly front screw in system they use that you have some odd key to unscrew. >>>>

The screws with 2 holes come out with long needle noses. They also
used 2 sizes of inside out nuts. I saw everyone fighting them so called
Maggy FS to get part ##'s & ordered 2 sets. I told the techs if they lost them they will build stands for 60 days

BTW many sets had a 'lytic on the conv PCB, causes bad V lin. IIRC
this had it ?

Zeno
It has two lytics on the convergence PCB. They tested bad on my T931, and so I replaced them with 105c lytics.
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  #13  
Old 05-25-2023, 09:27 PM
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i replaced them on mine as well.

BOY the new ones are tiny!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0525232112a.jpg

also replaced the cap on the contrast pot, i don't think the old one is very good!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0525232112.jpg
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  #14  
Old 05-26-2023, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamamaya42 View Post
i replaced them on mine as well.

BOY the new ones are tiny!
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0525232112a.jpg

also replaced the cap on the contrast pot, i don't think the old one is very good!

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0525232112.jpg
IIRC my Maggie roundy is still running original lytics on much of the TV chassis (the remote and amp chassis got full recaps) with the exception of the contrast lytics section of a can which was completely open. I just added a new cap at the pot and brought the set from weak unadjustable contrast to plenty of contrast with good adjustability.
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  #15  
Old 05-26-2023, 11:22 AM
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The multi lytics in the set are as such.

C1-A&B (80uf@450) are impossible to reach cause of no room, (filters)
C1-C is 20uf @ 350 and may be able to isolate and relocate as it's for the grid of audio output.
C2A 80uf @ 450 filter
C2B 50uf @ 450 filter on vert output
C2C 30uf @ 450 filter
C3A 20uf @ 450 filter bottom of voltage divider
C3B 20uf @ 450 filter video amp 1
C3C 20uf @ 450 audio out xformer

Just can't do anything to C1 w/o destroying it.
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