My 630 - Page 4 - Videokarma.org TV - Video

old_coot88 · #46 03-05-2013, 03:58 PM

Lookin' good. At this point you could get rid of the Bulb, and start putting all the tubes back in except the horz output, watching the B+ reading as you add tubes.
As more and more tubes pull current and load the power supply, the B+ should come down and the negative supply rail should come up (though it probably won't show the full -100V yet).

Finally if all's well at full line voltage, add the H output tube, being ready to shut the set off quickly if needed. Hold an insulated screwdriver next to the 1B3's plate connector and see if you can draw an arc. It should draw a healthy 'air arc' of a quarter inch or more, proving the H output and fly are running. If no arc, shut 'er down.

Geist · #47 03-05-2013, 04:29 PM

Hi All;
Will DO, I will let you know what the result is.. THANK YOU to OLD COOT again..

THANK YOU Marty

mikeh · #48 03-05-2013, 04:53 PM

Marty,
Kind of cool to see you getting the 630 up and running
I look forward to seeing a picture on the set. I will try and drop
the cabinet off sometime in the near future.
Mike

Geist · #49 03-05-2013, 05:22 PM

Hi All;
Thank You Mike..

As I write this I am going to Bring the set up with its tubes, except for the Horizontal Output Tube and the Picture Tube..
At 110 volts on the variac, I get the following
+275 on the divider I get 275 Volts
+135 on the divider I get +133 Volts
-18 on the divider I get -19
-2 on the divider I get -2.1
IT WORKS !!!!!
Next the horizontal tube..
THANK YOU Marty

Geist · #50 03-05-2013, 05:34 PM

Hi All;
The same as last time, I am going to bring it up with the Variac..
With all tubes except for the Picture Tube.. I have my Ponoma Meter attached to the Anode wire..
Here goes -- at 100 volts on the Variac I get 8K volts..
at 115 volts on the variac I get 9K volts..
Next is the 5" Picture tube..
THANK YOU Marty

Geist · #51 03-05-2013, 05:52 PM

Hi All;
I have a 4" purple round spot.. And on one channel I get NPR News, so sound works.. I haven't connected my B&K, as I have to put the 5" tube back in it to make my 1077B workable.. And then use a regular 10BP4 Picture Tube..
And this is before I replace any regular caps..

THANK YOU Marty

old_coot88 · #52 03-05-2013, 06:17 PM

Speakin' of replacing caps, the very first ones that should be replaced are the coupling caps going to the control grid (G1) of the H output tube, Vert.output tube, and audio output tube (in that order). Any leakage in a coupling cap will push the grid more positive, making the tube overconduct.. which is bad news in a power tube.

Once the power tubes are happy, then go ahead with the rest of the caps, powering the set up after each replacement to watch improvements. I would resume with the coupling cap going to G1 of the video output tube.

Geist · #53 03-05-2013, 06:18 PM

Hi All;
I put in the 10BP4 and at 90 volts on the variac, I smelled something and the Horizontal tube started to turn purple, and my Roomate saw some sparks looking from on top, down underneath the High Voltage Section.. So I pulled the Plug on it.. I will take out the 10BP4 later, and look underneath it next time I get a chance, take a look see..
THANK YOU Marty

Phil Nelson · #54 03-05-2013, 07:18 PM

Not sure which "underneath" you mean, but my 630TS had arcing under the little platform that holds the 1B3GT rectifier tube:

It's worth cleaning that entire area with isopropyl alcohol, whether or not that's the immediate source of arcing.

This article has other restoration notes that may be helpful in a general way:

http://antiqueradio.org/RCA630TSTelevision.htm

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Geist · #55 03-05-2013, 08:19 PM

Hi All;
Yes, Phil, that will be on my list of things to check next.. I was kind of hoping thst it might somewhat work before checking that area.. And it did work on the 5" Picture Tube.. So I am Very Happy, with it.. I may have some work tomorrow, so it might be a day or two before I get back to it.. By underneath I mean the bottom side of the chassis, where all of the Resistors and capacitors are hiding (lurking), so approximately underneath the 5V4 area..
THANK YOU Marty

Geist · #56 03-06-2013, 10:31 AM

Hi All;
I have the day to work on the set, work has been postponed to next week depending on the weather.. I took a look at the underside of the 1B3 and other than plenty of dust, it seems OK, I measured both resistors the 3.3 measures 3.6 and the 1 Meg measures .936 Meg.. Cleaned with brush first and then with a q-tip and 99% Alcohol.. Alot better now..
I made another Critical Mistake, while cleaning the Fly-back of dust and dirt, I broke the small wire that eventually goes to the Top of the 1B3..

I can't find the Asprin Trick posting for taking off the insulation.. Does anyone know where the link to it is ?? I hope to slightly lengthen it using wire-wrap wire (30 ga).. THANK YOU !!
My roomate thought the sparks that he saw were coming off the back (inside of the chassis) of the 110 volt power plug.. Could it be the two caps tied there, or maybe just too much dirt and old dust ??
Also, don't know if its related but the 6BG6 had a purple glow to it, maybe it is gassy, or just bad, any ideas ??
THANK YOU Marty

Geist · #57 03-06-2013, 10:58 AM

Hi All;
I am going to the store and get some Hight Voltage Corona Dope, as my old bottle of it is all dried up.. The top of the fly-back has some (along with the wire) burnt places, from arching, even inside of the Spegetti tubing around the wire.. So I will be gone for a bit.. What kind of wire is coming out of the fly-back ??
THANK YOU Marty

old_coot88 · #58 03-06-2013, 11:41 AM

Marty,
The aspirin trick is here, beginning with post #26 ..
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=257295&page=2
If you're dealing with a tiny stub of wire sticking out of the flyback tire, it'd take a bit of improvisation to get the stub immersed in the hot acid. Or maybe you could swab it on with a toothpick while still hot.

The arcing and simultaneous blue flashing in the 6BG6 are probably related. The overload imposed by the arcing could have caused the blue flashing, and the tube may still be OK. No guarantees though.

Geist · #59 03-06-2013, 01:37 PM

Hi All;
I'm back, got the dope.. I am going to first try with just the Iron on the end of the stub, for now there is about an inch of wire coming out of the fly-back, the lower half of that inch is burnt black and the end might be semi clean just dirty..
Old Coot, I am wondering If you could tell me what would be the causes of the 6BG6 going purple, and the arching, Once I know what type of things to look for I hopefully can better asses what or where the problem might be.. Such as too much current draw, but WHY is it drawing too much current ?? and etc.. Also, I may as well test the fly-back resistance readings.. Will, let you know on the next posting what I find.. I hope that It isn't a semi-bad fly-back..
THANK YOU Marty

Geist · #60 03-06-2013, 02:27 PM

Hi All;
I got the wire to take some solder, after using the asprin trick, (sure does smell, and lots of smoke) I lengthened it with some 30 ga wire-wrap wire.. I am also glad I got some dope, it will need a good coating of it.. I measured the Fly-back, and it measres fine.. Doesn't guarantee its good, but hopefully its ok..
I'LL try it on with the chassis upside down, using the 5" tube, to see IF I can see what is possibly arching underneath.. I just noticed that this set has a Horizontal Drive Control pot, maybe its set too high.. I'll give it a try as soon as I locate it on the back of the set..
THANK YOU Marty