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  #226  
Old 05-01-2016, 10:15 AM
WISCOJIM WISCOJIM is offline
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He got it going and made it to the ETF in Ohio okay.

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  #227  
Old 12-10-2016, 09:53 PM
Electronic M's Avatar
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Broke into my own car today...

There has been a LOT I've done with it since my last post that I should mention sometime, but I'm going to go straight to a funny story.

So I've been emptying the garage over the last 2-3 weeks getting all the electronic crap I've bought and tried to sell this summer out so the cars won't get snowed on. Tonight it is snowing and we raced this afternoon to get it done in time. I had 96% of my stuff out a week or two back, and got the last of it out last night (save for a console that technically is a friend's and still in there...somehow). I was helping the folks clear their crap. We were close to done, and I wanted to re-park my Lincoln (which I'm trying to keep parked out of the salt this winter)....

Some further back story to set this up is needed...Back when I fixed the power locks the driver side door motor had to be changed. The modern replacements have been lousy...Indeed there have been two modern replacements in that door in one year. The current one in the warm-ish part of the year gets sticky and won't move when powered without help. In the winter that motor has gotten plum stuck at times...To the point that the external lock cylinder and internal lock button simply would not work...I've had to enter on the passenger side and use the inner door handle (which overrides/pops open the lock) on the driverside to get in and out that side.

When I opened it up to move it tonight I realized I could not open the driver door from the outside (at least without risking breaking the key) and opened, closed and locked the passenger side door then opened the drivers door from the inside, and figured the driver door was unlocked since it opened. It was not! I had locked in my main set of keys both for this car and for my GMC* I proceeded to get my only spare set of keys for the Lincoln and keep the door open...I then asked Dad to confirm it would not block the garage door, and unconsciously shut the driver door to improve his view...A moment later I tried to get in only to realize I had somehow locked both sets in with the engine and lights on...

A bit of freaking out later, a failed attempt to use a screwdriver as a key, and I was fishing a coat hanger into the window seal. The driver side was not working and it was hard to listen it's location out with the engine on...I was worried as the evening was progressing that if I could not open it soon that it would be too late for a locksmith. I asked Mom, who had realized my insurance could have it done for free, to make the call....As she did that I tried one last time...This time I had a REAL good idea: Since the frozen power lock motor was holding the driver side door shut even if I hooked the lock mech the coat hanger would not be able to apply enough force to open it, and that I'd have better odds on the passenger side. The passenger window seal was less accommodating but with a screwdriver I could get the hanger wire in. I kept trying, and at some point (that I did not immediately recognize) while I had me ear to the door I got it unlocked! I promptly opened it, then ran in the house and told the folks. Apparently I told them just in time to keep from wasting an insurance freebee. This time I immediately took the spare key and gave it to Dad to return to it's designated safe keeping place...I then shut it down and locked it properly (with both sets of keys OUTSIDE it)...Thank GOD I was able to open it.

If I look at it objectively my car was not ran all this week (I just stopped using it as my commuter car), and the battery was weak making it harder to start so the ~30-45 minutes it was running was good for it, and I learned a trick for getting into it in a pinch. All in exchange for a big helping of stress. It sort of makes me stand back and appraise how secure it really is....

I'm real glad I did not waste a nearly full tank of gas, charged battery, or a free insurance call for help.

I had to get it open since my only key-less entry remote for my GMC was on my main key-chain in the Lincoln. The GMC will go into alarm panic mode is opened without the remote so using that car's only spare key (which I was wise to have made) would have really SUCKED.

I took the entire lock mech apart back in spring to try and fix the very issue that started this blunder and determined the mech is free as a bird till the modern power lock motor is connected....I wanted to keep that motor in it, but this is the last straw(!) next time it is not snowing and I have time I'm going to mechanically disconnect that damn power lock motor! I need to find an original power lock motor to replace it with....I've lost all faith in and patience for the modern replacement power lock motors available for this car.
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  #228  
Old 05-15-2017, 03:22 PM
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I think I may have finally ended the power steering/brakes leak...I started commuting in the Lincoln again in the last few weeks and the Tuesday after the ETF when I went back to work I noticed the engine was smoking profusely when the wheel was turned, and that the PS pump reservoir was totally empty, I topped it off and later had a look with the hood open this time the leak was obvious and large on a pressure hose coming off the pump...It used to leak a bit but only if I cranked the wheel to the stop and held it there. Since I knew what part that was leaking (never could find the leak before) I now could fix it.

I was able to get the line/hose hybrid off easily everywhere but on the end that connected to the brake booster...After starting to round it I bought a line wrench, which finished the job of rounding it...After some futzing I finally decided to commit to changing the line even if it meant a new hydroboost unit....I cut the metal line off at the stuck fitting on the hydroboost then ground the head of the fitting down until I could hammer a socket, the next size down, onto the fitting. The socket and breaker bar finally got that fitting loose (it did what a day of penetrating oil hosings, heat, and the proper tools could not).

T'was fun fishing the new line in. It goes under the car near the radiator snakes it's way along the frame/suspention, pops up between the steering gear and the exhaust weaves between break spark, and PS lines to the brake booster, in a way that took a lot of thought/skill to remove the old, and more still to install the new...

The good news is that it does not seem to be leaking anymore...bad news is I'm thinking about changing the pressure line/hose between the brake boost and steering gear, and and the return hoses as preventive maintenance...Before I got that stuck fitting out of the boost I tried to loosen the pressure line out of the boost and it did not want to go so if I get around to changing those hoses it probably will be 'fun'.

I think I'll wait till I change the wheel bearing on the GMC...I wanted to do that earlier, but I was too busy this weekend helping build a screen enclosed garden for ma.
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  #229  
Old 05-18-2020, 11:04 AM
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I'm thinking about removing the padded faux leather vinyl roof soon. The roof has gotten BAD over the nearly 6 years I've owned it and I think it's past the point where I can keep hitting the ignore button. My plan is to strip the roof and it's trim off take what's under that down to bare shiny metal, patch the pea sized passenger rust hole (I recently got a BOTB Harbor Freight electric welder, but have done more lead based body work ) then paint it Black.... I'm considering recreating the look of it by reinstalling the chrome roof trim, masking and painting the formerly vinyl area with undercoating....I suppose taking it to a shop and having a new padded vinyl roof installed is an option, but I really want to hold onto my money so I can pay off my last student loan and possibly have a down payment on a house in the next year or so (or have enough money to survive if this Corona virus crap collapses the country).

Pictures of the rot below.
So what say you? Sound plan, am I not doing it right or am I nuts?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20200516_193918612.jpg (87.5 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200516_193925918.jpg (58.8 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200516_193939347.jpg (101.5 KB, 9 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200516_194511601.jpg (68.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200516_194515432.jpg (52.8 KB, 13 views)
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Last edited by Electronic M; 05-18-2020 at 02:03 PM.
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  #230  
Old 05-18-2020, 11:42 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
I'm thinking about removing the padded faux leather vinyl roof soon. The roof has gotten BAD over the nearly 6 years I've owned it and I think it's past the point where I can keep hitting the ignore button. My plan is to strip the roof and it's trim off take what's under that down to bare shiny metal, patch the pea sized passenger rust hole (I recently got a BOTB Harbor Freight electric welder, but have done more lead based body work ) then paint it Black.... I'm considering recreating the look of it by reinstalling the chrome roof trim, masking and painting the formerly vinyl area with undercoating....I suppose taking it to a shop and having a new padded vinyl roof installed is an option, but I really want to hold onto my mono so I can pay off my last student loan and possibly have a down payment on a house in the next year or so (or have enough money to survive if this Corona virus crap collapses the country).

Pictures of the rot below.
So what say you? Sound plan, am I not doing it right or am I nuts?
After patching the rust holes, look into possibly using a spray on bed liner as used on pick-up trucks or similar.
I remember, in the late 60's, they made a coating that resembled a vinyl roof.
It looked pretty good.
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  #231  
Old 05-21-2020, 09:36 PM
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I was in the auto body business; those tops can hide a lot of nastiness. If you're not picky (and by the mention of bed liner, I don't think you are!) you should be fine. I'd try not to do something that couldn't be easily reversed in case you decide to go vinyl again at a later date, or just go to a straight painted top.
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  #232  
Old 05-22-2020, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Electronic M View Post
patch the pea sized passenger rust hole
LOL you clearly know nothing about patching rust holes. If you did, you'd know that if it looks pea-sized, it's actually at least the size of an orange! Honestly, leaving it to rot would be the easiest solution here.
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  #233  
Old 05-22-2020, 11:20 AM
dieseljeep dieseljeep is offline
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LOL you clearly know nothing about patching rust holes. If you did, you'd know that if it looks pea-sized, it's actually at least the size of an orange! Honestly, leaving it to rot would be the easiest solution here.
Don't underestimate MR Carlson! I've seen his work and he has the patience that I never had!
He did body work on his Suburban that was impressing!
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  #234  
Old 05-22-2020, 11:28 AM
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I've been getting crap from ma over not making it pretty...

I spent most of my free time last summer on the suburban replacing the missing back door rockers, leading edge of passenger rear fender to door jam (good Lord was that a huge cluster of bad old Bondo over bad rusted old shit welded patch),fender liner too, baseball sized holes in the rear fenders, and more... anywhere there wasn't old Bondo rust through was mostly limited to the hole that could be seen.

On the Lincoln I am expecting the unexpected, the Spanish Inquisition (Monty Python is going to be dissapointed if they show up ), and or terrible BS. It might not be as bad as I think though.
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  #235  
Old 05-22-2020, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by dieseljeep View Post
Don't underestimate MR Carlson! I've seen his work and he has the patience that I never had!
He did body work on his Suburban that was impressing!
Thanks for the kind words.

I'm proud of what I did on the rear fenders, the rockers could have been a lot better especially if I hadn't waited till Christmas to buy my welder and just harvested and welded in a junk yard panel instead of hand bending and soldering in sheet metal.
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  #236  
Old 05-24-2020, 01:03 AM
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Point of no return passed.

There's a good sized rust hole on the passenger opera window... about 5 screwdriver sized holes there too. And grinding out the deeper rust pits is slow and tricky (I'm thinking about dissolving the rest with naval jelly applying filler and painting it. Patching the holes is going to be interesting.
There appears to be some rust under parts of the seam sealer. I'm wondering if I should buy some seam sealer to refill what I ground out or if Bondo is good enough.
The top part of the roof despite having only the thinnest overspray of paint and primer and having the worst degragation of the vinyl was actually the least rusty only having a couple small shallow surface splotches that I can sand off easily. That seems to be dud to Lincoln using fairly waterproof foam rubber for the top but essentially a stiffer version of cotton stuffing to pad the sides...the top padding insulates against water but the sides hold it to the metal like a damp sponge....if they had padded the entire vinyl roof with rubber it would not have rusted like this.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20200523_155051342.jpg (106.3 KB, 17 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200523_153920337.jpg (95.5 KB, 12 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200523_161934517.jpg (124.1 KB, 16 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200523_163135156.jpg (89.3 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200523_173828452.jpg (96.1 KB, 16 views)
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  #237  
Old 05-24-2020, 02:05 AM
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Well I suppose seam sealer would be better for the seam, it's mean to be a bit flexible. I mean, you could probably just use ordinary painters caulk. Hell, bondo would work as long as you get all the old seam sealer out, but I suppose it really depends on how that seam is constructed.
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  #238  
Old 05-26-2020, 09:40 PM
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We used to use panel bonding epoxy to replace that seam sealer. Incredible stuff, but can be pricey and generally requires a proprietary applicator. At least one company used to sell it in a unique tube that would fit a caulking gun. If I were going the body filler route I'd get something like Fibre Strand or Tiger Hair.
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  #239  
Old 05-27-2020, 12:14 PM
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Since the seam wasn't really a tight seam like on a van but a 1.5" wide ~1/4" deep wavy bottomed dish in the body panel a few days ago I filled it with Bondo. I didn't remove much of the seam sealer maybe three 2" strips where there was obviously rust under it and ground down to metal a good way past the edge of the rust.... that showed me that aside from the bad spots I went after the metal was rust free under the old seam sealer....I considered patching the rust with new metal but I'd need a sheet metal brake or a new body panel to replace the largest spotty parts. There is a big hole on the edge of the passenger opera window that due to the curves is well beyond my tools and skills to recreate in metal.

My solution was to grind the metal till the orange of the rust was 98% gone and just black spots then hit it with locktite extend rust neutralizer to turn the spots completely black then Bondo over it...so far it has gone alright. I just need to get the surface a little smoother on both sides and resand the top of the roof and I can prime and paint it.

After some deliberation about deleting the roof chrome trim I've decided my years old impression of pictures cars ordered with factory vinyl roof delete is correct...It looks BAD without the roof trim. I now need to find new trim mount clips for it since a number of the originals had disintegrated and some of the remaining ones I destroyed grinding the rivets out so I could fix the rust beneath them...
I also decided not to under coat over the roof area....a test spray a did on the plastic back of a used up sheet of sand paper showed that the texture doesn't remain even after drying. I'm probably just gonna paint it Black matching the body color and leave it that way.
To reach these conclusions I painted one side black (I'm going to sand that off to finish smoothing the Bondo under it) and set all the trim back on.

One job in it's self was the rear window trim.... until I removed the vinyl I wasn't sure I even had a useable one... the vinyl covered it completely and asside from some glimpse of what I thought might have been it I had no way of knowing if was even present till I stripped the vinyl. The trim had tar adheasive tape sealing it's edges to the body and the roof was glued to it so it looked like hell when I dug it out....it took easily 2-3 hours of scrubbing it with paper towels soaked in goof off and scraping with fingernails to get that crap off of it. It wasn't bad underneath. The top sections had the same rainbow iradescent brass like plateing that speakers and chassis of some 70's Asian made audio amps have (it was mostly gone from the bottom) which I polished off down to normal looking stainless underneath. Most of the bottom clips for the rear window trim are orange dust so I'm going to either have to get more or redistribute the good ones to hold things good enough...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20200525_182405275_HDR.jpg (123.2 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200524_220154124.jpg (80.6 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200524_210815465.jpg (47.3 KB, 13 views)
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Last edited by Electronic M; 05-27-2020 at 12:21 PM.
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  #240  
Old 06-03-2020, 07:44 PM
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I've got it filled and primed...the primer reveals I need to improve the fill below the rear window and that I need to sand the sides and top with finer grit to hide the sanding marks.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_20200531_174432856.jpg (100.5 KB, 14 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200531_174424700.jpg (97.5 KB, 13 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_20200601_204247674.jpg (91.1 KB, 13 views)
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Last edited by Electronic M; 06-03-2020 at 07:52 PM.
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