Sylvania CK3000 Test Rig / Roundie -- Test Setup

[ChrisW6ATV]

John (jshorva65)-

Is your A112 yoke adapter an octal socket with four wires each ending with a 1/4" male blade terminal?

[jshorva65]

Yes, the A-112 consists of an octal plug having four color-coded leads terminated with male blade connectors. Red and blue connect to the female blade connectors on the red and blue horizontal yoke leads from the chassis under test. The yellow and black leads connect to the corresponding vertical yoke leads (yellow and yellow-black). If the chassis has a fifth (usually orange) yoke lead, this lead is left unconnected when using the CK3000 (it normally connects to a fifth terminal on some sets' yokes, which is the junction of the two halves of the horizontal winding, when used). The octal plug of the A-112 then connects to the mating octal socket on the B-207 yoke extension cable. The Molex plug on the B-207 should be plugged into the Molex connector marked "Deflection" on the CK3000 patch panel.

Likewise, the A-113 CRT adaptor will plug into the CRT socket end of the B-230 CRT extension cable. The Molex end of the B-230 then connects to the Molex connector marked "CRT" on the CK3000 patch panel.

The red and black (Anode and Ground) leads will then connect to the Anode and Ground connections of the chassis under test. For "hot chassis" receivers, the chassis under test must be powered via an isolation transformer to minimize AC shock hazard.

Another adaptor having an RCA plug on one end and alligator clips on the other should be included with the CK3000 in order to connect the speaker leads of the chassis under test to the "Audio" connector on the CK3000 patch panel.

For all "roundie" setup codes (designated "1A" through "1M" by the manual's setup tables and chassis-setup cross reference) and other setup codes for tube-types chassis, the octal plug marked "YP-12" will be connected to the Yoke Program socket on the CK3000 patch panel.

Most of the "roundie" setup codes use Convergence Ballast "CVL-1" while some will use CVL-2, CVL-3, or none. For many chassis, the designated Convergence Ballast plugs directly into the Convergence socket of the chassis under test. Some models use an adaptor between the CVL-x ballast and the chassis Convergence socket (most Zenith "roundie" chassis use the CVL-1 ballast paired with the CC-19 adaptor).

[ChrisW6ATV]

Thanks for the detailed information, John. I hope to try out the jig soon.

[jshorva65]

Originally Posted by ChrisW6ATV

Thanks for the detailed information, John. I hope to try out the jig soon.

You're very welcome! I also learned how to set up my CK3000 from information provided by other message board members, after obtaining my CK3000 and its bag of cables with no setup literature from a local seller. There should be a link in one of my earlier posts in this thread to the site where I downloaded my copy of the CK3000 manual. Thanks again to the poster of the manual!

[ChrisW6ATV]

I did some more research so I can connect my CK3000 to my CTC-5 chassis, and later possibly a CTC-4.

First, I did confirm that the CVL1 ballast/convergence load is just what TV Engineer said it was, basically a 150 ohm resistor between pins 1 and 2. Then, I studied the schematics for the RCA chassis from CTC-16X back to the CTC-2B to see what would be required to use the CK3000 with the pre-CTC-7 chassis. The older models each have different methods of connecting their convergence yokes to their chassis (none match each other, nor do any match the CTC-7 and later). All three of the older 21" chassis (CTC-2B, 4, and 5) use the same connector and wiring for their deflection yokes (that does not match the CTC-7 and later).

The deflection yoke on the '2B/'4/'5 has an octal plug and cable that appears to match up with the newer models using common-color yoke wires like this: Pin 1 = yellow, pin 2 = black (or yellow/black), pin 5 = red, pin 8 = blue. I may have pins 5 and 8 backwards; I will not know until I make the adapter cable I am planning to use.

Regarding the convergence yoke and load, it appears that the older chassis do not even need to have a load used when the yoke is disconnected. All three of the older models have their convergence circuitry on the chassis (or the separate CTC-3 with the CTC-2B), so the function of the load is already accomplished by the various pots that remain in-circuit even when the convergence yoke is unplugged.

I will make an update post when I have tried the CK3000 with my CTC-5.

[kx250rider]

Originally Posted by Chad Hauris

Could we leave the male Chauvinism out please...some of us men do all of the housework plus multiple jobs.

I'm a house husband, and my wife & I both work about equally on wage earning... It's more work than when I worked as a TV repairman for two shops at the same time on call! I do all the housework, as she hates to do it and I don't mind. It's her house, so it's still a deal tilted in my favor.

Charles

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by jshorva65

With many thanks to Ray, who posted the entire setup manual in reply to a USENET message I posted some time ago, I'll pass along the URL for the location of the manual. I just used the CK3000 to check out another roundie chassis (Admiral 25UH-series) which had an intermittent issue with color sync. The CK3000 allows much more systematic probing, tapping, and prodding to pin down touchy intermittents than would be possible with the chassis inside the cabinet.

Here's the URL posted by Ray on USENET ... http://staff.washington.edu/rrcc/uwweb/CK3000/

Excuse me for bringing this old thread around. Is there any chance that someone copied the above manual file, and could send me the file via email? The above link is no longer working.

Do any of you guys that have these CK3000's know what CRT type is in your jig? Mine has a VT13VAHP22, and it's showing way too much g1 leakage on the green gun. The guy I got mine from said it was working when used last about 10 years ago. Not sure what to make of it. Thanks for any help.

Kevin

[kx250rider]

Eeeeek: 6-year-old thread bumped again????!!!!!

[Kevin Kuehn]

If anyone has a spare A-113 CRT adaptor, that is the only thing keeping me from connecting mine up. I can make one, but I don't have anything to cannibalize the 14-pin CRT connector from. I have the other end that connects to the CRT extension cable.

Kevin

[Gunslinger]

I have the Sylvania test fixture with probably evary adaptor made or close to it. Also have a home made set up for RCA solid state thru ctc 169. The RCA one uses all kinds of adaptors and focus adaptors. Some adaptors are made by Telematic. I never had to pull a 35 inch set. I have also the RCA interface boards so I usually did not have to pull the push buttons unless there was one I did not have.

Also have the Chipper check unit. All this is available for sale if there is any interest. I will not be interested in selling just an adaptor. The fixture and it's adaptors will be a package.

I have no intention of repairing a TV again. After doing that for almost 45 years, I'm done.

If you people saw what I've thrown away, you'd cringe.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Can anyone list the pin basing for a 13VAHP22? It's not listed in my 1975 RCA manual, so it must be a later tube.

I'm attempting to make a CRT adaptor (Sylvania #A113) to go from the newer small 14 pin to the older large (14AU) basing. I don't think they're pin for pin identical? Thanks for any help.

Kevin

[Kevin Kuehn]

I finally got my CTC-11 chassis hooked up to my CK3000 jig. The CRT in my unit has some major convergence issues. I can get the center ok, but there's no control over the outer edges. Maybe this is normal for these?

I'm also having a problem with vertical height. I can't get the jig to match the height of the CRT in my set. I assume that would be controlled with the yoke-programming plug?

My 11 has a lot of smearing on text. Probably needs alignment, but I'm not ready to go there.

The poor thing still has all it's original caps in it.

Kevin

[Gunslinger]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

I finally got my CTC-11 chassis hooked up to my CK3000 jig. The CRT in my unit has some major convergence issues. I can get the center ok, but there's no control over the outer edges. Maybe this is normal for these?

I'm also having a problem with vertical height. I can't get the jig to match the height of the CRT in my set. I assume that would be controlled with the yoke-programming plug?

My 11 has a lot of smearing on text. Probably needs alignment, but I'm not ready to go there.

The poor thing still has all it's original caps in it.

Kevin

It is normal for the edges of the jig not to be in convergence.

[Kevin Kuehn]

Originally Posted by Gunslinger

It is normal for the edges of the jig not to be in convergence.

That's good to know.

Should I also not worry about the picture size and centering, basically use it as a go, no-go test for basic receiver function? Sort of like a dummy speaker load.

Kevin

[Findm-Keepm]

Originally Posted by Kevin Kuehn

Can anyone list the pin basing for a 13VAHP22? It's not listed in my 1975 RCA manual, so it must be a later tube.

I'm attempting to make a CRT adaptor (Sylvania #A113) to go from the newer small 14 pin to the older large (14AU) basing. I don't think they're pin for pin identical? Thanks for any help.

Kevin

I'm not sure, but the 14VAHP22 uses a 14BH basing:

Pin
1=Heater
2=Red Cathode
3=Red G1
4=Red G2
5=Green G2
6=Green Catode
7=Green G1
8="C" - not sure what that is..
9=G4 (Focus)
10=not used/not present
11=Blue Cathode
12=Blue G1
13=Blue G2
14=Heater

Empire (now part of Video Diplay/VDC lists the 13VAHP22 as a replacement for 13VAF, 13VBG, and 13VBTP22 CRTs.

Hope this helps,