Monkey Wards Model 62-465 Dial Stringing Diagram Needed

[init4fun]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

I sent old coot a pm but haven't heard back from him yet. I actually paralleled 3 6V lantern batteries together and hooked them up to the radio and turned the radio on and measured the voltage and the voltage was around 5.8V with the radio on and the tubes did light up, but there was no audio and I didn't hear anything from the vibrator.

I did then return the 2 Duracell lantern batteries to the hardware store and got my money back, which I'll use for the battery OC is offering me.

I have an old 1960s vintage 6/12 V battery charger that was my grandfathers that I can use to recharge the battery that OC is offering me (which I did accept his offer, but I haven't heard back from him yet).

At the point where the paralleled lantern batteries lit the tubes, the next step would have been to give the vibrator a sharp rap on it's side with the handle of a screwdriver and see if that got it to start. Not hard enough to dent it of course, but enough of a hit to hopefully dislodge the possibly stuck contacts. I still wouldn't take it apart till OC's battery arrives, if that much available current don't get it buzzing then yeah it's surgery time.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by init4fun

At the point where the paralleled lantern batteries lit the tubes, the next step would have been to give the vibrator a sharp rap on it's side with the handle of a screwdriver and see if that got it to start. Not hard enough to dent it of course, but enough of a hit to hopefully dislodge the possibly stuck contacts. I still wouldn't take it apart till OC's battery arrives, if that much available current don't get it buzzing then yeah it's surgery time.

Ok. Thanks.

[old_coot88]

It's on its way.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

It's on its way.

Great, thanks! I'll be the owner of the radio once I get a couple of radios going for the guy that I've been working on.

[old_coot88]

Just a cautionary note though. If it's a synchronous vibrator (mechanical rectification), be sure the supply polarity is correct. If it's backward, the B+ will also be backwards, throwing reverse polarity on the main filter caps. Whereas with tube rectfication the supply can be either polarity.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

Great, thanks! I'll be the owner of the radio once I get a couple of radios going for the guy that I've been working on.

I dealt with people like that!
They want the world for the items they have, but want you to repair their stuff for nothing, part and labor.
I quit taking in repairs!

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by dieseljeep

I dealt with people like that!
They want the world for the items they have, but want you to repair their stuff for nothing, part and labor.
I quit taking in repairs!

Oh no, he actually pays me for my time and labor as well, but he's bartering with me for some radios and test equipment I needed by allowing me to have an old radio or some old test equipment in exchange for my repair services on some of his old radios, by valuing my repair work time and stuff equal to the value of whatever it is I wanted.

I was able to get an old Knight Model 600 tube tester from him for just what I put into time and parts to fix an old Stromberg Carlson radio and an old Canadian Viking Cathedral Radio (which was mostly research time on the later radio because I couldn't find a service manual for the unit because of it being a Canadian radio, and they have different service information than we do here in the US.)

I also got a really nice variac thrown in as well a superior electric unit.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Just a cautionary note though. If it's a synchronous vibrator (mechanical rectification), be sure the supply polarity is correct. If it's backward, the B+ will also be backwards, throwing reverse polarity on the main filter caps. Whereas with tube rectfication the supply can be either polarity.

Ok, well I dont know if this would of affected anything or not but when I was trying to repair the battery cables I which were previously severed and jury rigged back together with wire splices and friction tape I couldn't tell what color the wires were because the cloth insulation on the wires were faded to the point that you couldn't tell what colors they were.

So I wired then up how they were wired up when i first got the radio (which was how it looked in the chassis illustration in the Riders for this unit, not noticing that there was an actual diagram of how the battery cable was supposed to be wired up in the schematic and I accidentally wired up the positive to the negative leads and attempted to power the unit up with a single 6V lantern battery with it wired up that way (which thankfully there wasn't enough juice in that battery to power the unit up) I have since "rectified" (pun intended) the issue.

Hopefully the vibrator and the filter caps didn't get ruined with my failed attempt at powering up the radio with the miswired battery cables.

[old_coot88]

Interesting little factoid about car radios using synchronous vibrators. You can use a radio from a negative-ground car in a positive-ground car just by reversing the two end leads of the transformer's secondary. This simply inverts the B supply to positive.

[vortalexfan]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

Interesting little factoid about car radios using synchronous vibrators. You can use a radio from a negative-ground car in a positive-ground car just by reversing the two end leads of the transformer's secondary. This simply inverts the B supply to positive.

This radio uses a positive ground I believe because the A+ wire (the positive wire) is the battery cable's ground shielding cable and the A- wire (the negative wires) are the green and black wires that are inside the ground shielding cable/cloth sheathing.

[init4fun]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

This radio uses a positive ground I believe because the A+ wire (the positive wire) is the battery cable's ground shielding cable and the A- wire (the negative wires) are the green and black wires that are inside the ground shielding cable/cloth sheathing.

The schematic shows A+ as being connected to ground and A- to the switch. Back in the day when 6V cars were the norm a lot of cars were positive ground....

[vortalexfan]

I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator?

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by vortalexfan

I got the battery today, hooked it up, and still nothing from the vibrator, even after lightly tapping it a couple of times with the handle of a screwdriver.

Time for disection of the vibrator?

Remove the vibrator and connect 6vac to pins 3&6. With AC applied it should vibrate.
There's probably a heavy corrosion buildup on the contacts after so many years. If it doesn't buzz on AC, the coil is probably open.
Trying to remember after so many years.

[old_coot88]

In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.

[dieseljeep]

Originally Posted by old_coot88

In PM exchange with Vortalexfan, he indicated that the battery's no-load voltage was 5.4V as received, tho it had been topped up to over 6V before shipment. So I'm wondering if it has developed a bad cell. Told him to withold payment until whether that's determined.

I have a Toyota Prius battery pack with a dead cell. It's a li-ion type battery that should read 7.8 to 8 volts no load. It reads 6.4 volts, so it had to be replaced. There's 28 cell packs in the battery bank.
Lucky thing, the bad cell shorts instead of going O/C, or you'll be calling for a tow.
Slightly OTT, but noteworthy.