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I remember that I hadn't faced any difficulties with replacement a few years ago. I only had to rework the HV supply gear, and change the socket. The cone of the glass tube is just more plumpy but its height is the same, so it fits the original hardware pretty well: Maybe, the difference is in that my glass CRT is the official replacement for the metal-glass one. What was about American glass CRTs? Were some of them designed as the direct substitutes for obsolete metal tubes, or were they all just newer tubes which had to be used as replacements? Crist Rigott, you're making good progress on the restoration! Hope to see a picture on the screen soon!
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To understand a bygone era, you should use things from it Last edited by Gleb; 01-15-2019 at 12:30 PM. |
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Here in the US metal tubes were only popular in monochrome sets from around 1950 to around 1953.... color CRTs were in development during that time and the metal ones lent themselves best to installation of the shadow mask so when color was standardized in 1953 and into around 1956 (though some Motorola's stuck with metal into the early 60's) metal color tubes were made. The metal tubes seem more prone to leak and fill with air... Even tubes with just a metal evacuation stem are more prone than ones with glass evacuation stems.
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Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
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Electronic M, thanks for the information!
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To understand a bygone era, you should use things from it |
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I installed the E-Caps today. Not much to look at in the pictures but I included them anyway. Then I started on the Vertical section. I'll post what I did tomorrow.
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It's been a couple of days. I had a few things around the house to get done and I also had to make another round of PC boards for my Network sales.
I finished the Vertical section this evening. The Vertical section contained a couplate or network! While I was going to make some more Network PC boards I drew up one for the Vertical Integrator network. It consisted of 3 resistors and 3 caps. Simple. I first checked the original and it has 3 resistors between leads 2 and 3 that should add up to 38.4K. These measured out to 48.1K. A 25% difference. This one has to go! Some before and after pictures. If you look closely you can see the brown Network under the right hand side terminal strip. |
Audiokarma |
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I've moved onto the main section of the chassis. I thought I'd start at the top left and work my way across to the lower right.
On the right side of the two terminal strips were 3 27K 2W resistors twisted in parallel. I have 3 27K 3W resistors ready to go back in. But thought I'd replaced the 3 with 1 9K 10W wire wound resistor. What do you think? Some before and after pics. Then on to another section. The lower capacitor is connected to the left hand terminal of the capacitor above it. When I installed its replacement, I jumpered the lower 2 terminals and installed the lower capacitor on its own terminal. Last edited by Crist Rigott; 01-20-2019 at 10:28 PM. |
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