#1
|
|||
|
|||
Fixing a Sony Super Betamax SL-S600
Hey, new to the forum. Was glad to find it. I'm fixing a Sony Super Betamax SL-S600 for a friend. He described the problem as the deck "eating the tape." I got it taken apart and discovered the problem was that the tape spools don't move. I followed the orange belt back to a disc under the motor (1st pic.) Problem is, I can't figure out how it connects to the motor or what needs to be glued/replaced. I see when the tape is stretched out that a rubber roller (2nd pic, figure 2) makes contact with the spindle (2nd pic, figure 1) coming up from the aforementioned disc.
My question is... what's supposed to be driving this disc that drives the tape spindles? |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
Cheers,
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:38 PM. |
#3
|
||||
|
||||
The disc with the brown edge and white pulley should be the rotor of the capstan motor that regulates tape speed.
That white pulley should drive an orange-ish toothed belt on the underside that goes to a pulley that drives the mech for the cassette tape reels. I need more pictures of the whole mech to tell you more. I last worked on my Sony super beta a good 3-5 years ago so memory is foggy. I wish I could get a capstan rotor for mine...I had to replace a bad capacitor on the capstan motor board and burned a hole with my soldering iron in the brown motor magnetic control track on the side of the rotor and it has not tracked right since (it did cure the won't stay in play mode issue I had though). If it loads a tape properly, wraps tape around the drum, but does not pull the tape back in to the cassette after unwrapping the drum before ejecting the tape then I'd disregard what Findem-Keepem said.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 Last edited by Electronic M; 04-24-2015 at 05:01 PM. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
If I could find my directory, I probably have the PDF manual for your deck. I have the entire Sony ESI library on CDs from 1994-2008, and about 700 paper manuals as well. Anyone know the part number for the service manual for this deck? The directories on the discs are in part number order, by type (audio, display, TV, video, and other), but without the part number, I'm guessing - and 69 CDs to go through. Union Electronic Distributors used to have the directory on their website, but the link is dead now.
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Yes, Electronic M, that's exactly what it is. I removed the orange belt so I could get a better look at the part.
Findm-Keepm -- By mode switch, do you mean the part you labeled Motor Drive IC? I did a cursory web search, but couldn't find any service manuals. Lots of operation manuals, so at least this thing will be a reliable clock if nothing else. :p The tape does load properly, but the orange belt never moves. No play, rewind, ff, or general tightening of the tape. What seems like the likely culprit? Bad capacitor? Nothing looked fried, but I guess I can go through with a voltage meter or something (kinda new at this.) |
Audiokarma |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
I'd change out the silver lytic can right of the motor IC. Mine looked fine, but was causing the motor to intermittently die. That cap is almost certainly bad on yours. Unless you have an ESR meter or the cap happens to have failed shorted/(electrically)leaky there is little chance of a test telling you whether it is good or bad.
If the cap that was going bad in mine could cause the motor to stop turning periodically, then the one in yours is probably fully bad and the main problem. Replace that cap with one of the same capacitance and same or higher voltage. The replacement does not need to be surface mount it just has to fit in the space available. Don't leave the motor's rotor installed during the cap replacement work (lest you risk damaging it like I did). Before you plug in your soldering iron unscrew the metal retainer left of center over the rotor, then pull the rotor out, and set aside until the cap solder work is done, then reinstall the rotor and retainer.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Great, I'll give that a shot first! Thanks!
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
UPDATE -- worked like a dream! Thanks so much! As an added bonus, the unmarked tape my friend provided was Jazzercize!
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Glad some good came of my old botched repair.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
#10
|
||||
|
||||
and kudos to you! It's always good to have a Beta guy around!!
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
Audiokarma |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks. SS gear is hardly my forte, but if something I like is broken I usually at least try to fix it....If I can ever find a junker to get a new rotor from my deck will live again.
__________________
Tom C. Zenith: The quality stays in EVEN after the name falls off! What I want. --> http://www.videokarma.org/showpost.p...62&postcount=4 |
|
|