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  #76  
Old 09-04-2014, 08:51 AM
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holmesuser01 holmesuser01 is offline
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I'm glad Carmine was just being the anti-repair guy. Had me going there for a minute.

I started messing around with old radios around 1963, when I was seven.

I replaced a picture tube in a B/W GE console when I was nine, with my dad's help... he helped me sit the CRT in the mask properly, then I took over.

Started doing basic TV repairs for friends of our family when I was eleven.

Got a parts account at the local electronic parts jobber when I was fourteen.

Got a $40 car, a 1960 Dodge, and learned from it by taking it apart and putting it back together again. Today I do almost all of my own auto repair. My mom loves this, as she has never had to take a car to the shop with ME around.

If it had not been for my dad, and my uncle Wayne showing me the basic ways to use tools, and work on electrical things, I sincerely don't know what I would have wound up doing for a living for all of my work career.
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  #77  
Old 09-05-2014, 02:38 AM
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I really wish that had been my case.

But MY dad was in sales--and He DIED--when I was 7 years old.

This left my mom to take care of me and my sis. she di her best and I am very proud of her. She did her best to understand--and tolerate--my special interests.

However--some people who COULD have helped me to learn more--and even get into this field early--did NOT help me. At least one was a tv repair man, and for a VERY short time--it looked like he would "take me under his wing" , but he did NOT do so. Another was heavily into computer technology--he too had a chance--but passed on it for whatever reason.

A few even tried to PREVENT me from doing this sort of thing--trying their best to convince my mother to force me to "stop messing around with old tv sets and such". For a short time--they nearly succeeded. But after a short time--mom realized better.

So--I am m mostly self--taught. I had a BIT of help, here and there, but nothing consistent. Then I earned 2 degrees in college--one of which--my AAS degree--HAS helped me to 'get in doors"..
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  #78  
Old 09-05-2014, 08:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by old_coot88 View Post
Gotta concur totally. That's assuming the heaters are parallel-wired and one side of the heater supply is grounded. If pin 4 is hot, then pin 5 has gotta go to ground.
I screwed up. It does go to ground. It's hard to raise the chassis up with the picture tube in it, but I got a better look this morning. Going to check continuity on the pins of the tube with the tube pulled out slightly and see where I'm at.
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  #79  
Old 09-05-2014, 09:03 AM
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Everything has continuity that should, with the tube pulled from the socket of course. Powered the set up and with the tube elevated slightly in the socket, I get squat for voltage on 4 and 5. Nothing.

Hm.
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  #80  
Old 09-05-2014, 05:11 PM
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Perhaps *really* clean the tube socket pins well. Can you prop the chassis up slightly and try to measure the voltage at the bottom of the socket? * Is it a wired or printed circuit connection from the tube base to the source of heater voltage? I assume that you are indeed counting the pins correctly and the correct tube is installed.

jr

edit add:
* perhaps tack solder a couple of wires to the socket, and bring out for measurement?

Last edited by jr_tech; 09-05-2014 at 05:19 PM.
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  #81  
Old 09-05-2014, 06:04 PM
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The tube is correct according to the sticky label on the top and on the bottom of the chassis. I measured voltage topside....all I did was bring the tube very lightly up out of the socket, just enough to get meter probes in there. And the socket pins are numbered

Suppose I could prop the set up and measure from underneath, but right now my son Nick and I are finishing up the Admiral 10"
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  #82  
Old 09-05-2014, 07:09 PM
old_coot88 old_coot88 is offline
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Why dontcha try this:
With the set off, remove the tube. Working from the top side of the chassis, stick the meter from ground into lug 5. It should show zero ohms, indicating solid continuity thru the socket to ground.

Do the same thing to lug 4. It should show nearly zero, a small fraction of an ohm (from the paralleled tube heaters and heater winding, to ground).

If you get an open on either lug, that'll show you which track to pursue to find the open condition.

I suspect this fault is why the project was abandoned.
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  #83  
Old 09-05-2014, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakiri View Post
Pin 4 seems to be the common heater voltage, it jumps between tubes. Continuity is good.
Just a WAG, but I suspect that the wire that is connected to pin 4 is *incorrectly connected* at the other end.... what tube and what pin of that tube does it connect to?

This is a real head-scratcher!

jr
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  #84  
Old 09-05-2014, 11:15 PM
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Don't discount a bad (open pin) on the tube socket. Predictas are especially prone to this, and it is a possibility in any make/model set.
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  #85  
Old 09-06-2014, 12:38 AM
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If its the socket you can bend in the contacts from the top
with a jewelers screwdriver for a temp repair sometimes.
Works good often for sockets that wont clean.
Some sockets you can also replace one pin to fix.
At the next ham flea market look for a set of test sockets,
they plug in between the tube & chassis & have test points.
And dont forget count CW from bottom, CCW from top.

BTW One of the biggest dogs we had was a vert socket.
Maggy color no vert sweep. Road man tried tube then pulled
chassis. I jigged it & poked at it for days, got nowhere.
2 part time EE's tried & 2 other techs. Finally we gave up, it
beat us. I told the shop idiot to wrap it up to send it to a
Maggy dealer. When he went to put the origional tube back
in the end of a pin was on the tube pin. A new socket fixed it.

73 Zeno
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  #86  
Old 06-06-2017, 09:31 PM
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ChrisW6ATV ChrisW6ATV is offline
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Mystery solved?

Tim, I hope you still have this kit TV set. A good friend of mine just gave me an unbuilt tube color-TV kit, and it is likely the same one that you have. I compared things such as part locations on the convergence board and some of the tube layout and numbers on the chassis from your pictures, and they match.

Your set is likely a CTV-20-K made by Commercial Trades Institute in Chicago, Illinois. I have not yet checked everything that I have, but it might include full documentation of the set if we are lucky. The bad news is, we did not yet find the main chassis for this kit. But, I do have the CRT and, with luck, all of the other parts of the kit, as well as most or all of the original lessons and exam materials that were apparently spread over 20 segments, each with its own board or other set of parts as the kit as built. Mine is from late 1973, from the dates on a few of the parts such as the UHF tuner. That is VERY late to be selling an all-tube color TV set, but the logic was probably "This is what your customers will be bringing in for repair". If you never did fix your set's vertical problem, maybe I can find the schematic or other information to help.

How did I find your three-year-old discussion? I did a Google search for the 19GWP22 CRT in the kit. (-:
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  #87  
Old 06-06-2017, 09:37 PM
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And to answer one question or comment from the original discussion, the labels were indeed part of the kit. "Practical Assignment 9KC" includes a decal placement sheet for the top and bottom of the chassis. It matches Tim's pictures.
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  #88  
Old 06-07-2017, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 47'Plymouth View Post
Arkay kit
Eartha Kitt!
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  #89  
Old 06-07-2017, 12:29 PM
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Unfortunately I don't still have it. In fact, I don't even remember who I gave it to ???
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  #90  
Old 06-07-2017, 10:25 PM
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ChrisW6ATV ChrisW6ATV is offline
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OK, well maybe its current owner will see this discussion and make a comment or two. Thanks for the update.
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