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1980 19'' Toshiba Blackstripe
Hello fellow CRT fans,
Got this 1980 Toshiba Blackstripe ( model number CA955C) last friday. Very good picture (a lot better than my 79 19'' Hitachi), very good contrast, very nice shape overall. It's an ultrasonic set but the original owners didn't have the remote. All I needed to do to get a great picture on it was to slightly back down the green bias and adjust the focus, and voilą! All is well but one thing : it has absolutly no sound, not even a crackle when I play with the slider on the front. Does anyone happen to know if those had a common failure that could explain it? Thanks! (by the way the faceplate that goes up front on the tuner is removed because I played with the settings, the TV looks much better with it on!) Last edited by Dreamsbeard; 09-07-2015 at 09:12 AM. |
#2
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The volume is likely stepped by the remote, and may have been muted. In this case the slide control would do nothing. It determines the highest volume when the stepper is at its highest setting. Pop a battery into the Jerrold remote and start hitting buttons until something happens.
Last edited by Jon A.; 09-06-2015 at 02:47 PM. |
#3
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Humm could be! But at the same time there is button at the back that prevented the tv from turning it on so pushing it in disabeled the remote enabeling me to turn the tv on...so logicly it would also enable sound... hummm
I'll try it with the Jerold remote...or ratteling some keys just to see what happens. |
#4
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Yes, one button on the remote would be for power and volume. Keys may work, but my Sylvania won't respond to them or a bell.
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#5
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I was able to power on the tv and change the channels with the jerrold remote, but still no sound.
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Audiokarma |
#6
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Did you press the button that powered it on more than once? Also, double-check the volume slider. It may start crackling.
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#7
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Yep, made multiple pass on all the buttons. Double triple quadruple checked the slider... :\
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#8
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The Toshibas of that era also used a TA7176 or TA7176P Sound IF chip - we replaced several - GEIC-2/ECG712/NTE712 is the replacement. Not saying that is your problem, just another no sound component.
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#9
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By the way, I would guess this is the correct hand unit. Unfortunately it's rather expensive. This is one I don't have.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111754545364 |
#10
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Quote:
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Audiokarma |
#11
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these were good sets, I wouldnt mind working
on them all day. Easy first. If it has a headphone jack plug one in & see if it works. Also jacks go bad & get cold solder on them if they are used much. Speaker..... Unplug it & hang any old speaker in. After that will have to dig in. See if you can find the chassis number. Starts with TAC #### On a black & silver label probably near the HV trans. I can see if I can find something close. 73 Zeno |
#12
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Here's the audio section and the control board - the volume control is at the bottom..
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! Last edited by Findm-Keepm; 09-29-2017 at 06:37 PM. |
#13
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Quote:
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#14
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It still could be a bad jack - the plating tarnishes, creating a high resistance between normally closed contacts - plugging a earphone in and out a few times will usually do the trick, else some Isopropyl Alcohol and a soft brush.
Does the speaker have continuity? Start there, and work back to the jack - a pinched wire, a loose/off terminal on the speaker...
__________________
Brian USN RET (Avionics / Cal) CET- Consumer Repair and Avionics ('88) "Capacitor Cosmetologist since '79" When fuses go to work, they quit! |
#15
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If the SPKR is bad you may have a hard time finding
an exact fit. You will be able to mouse something in. We can cross that bridge when we get to it. 73 Zeno |
Audiokarma |
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