I have the same set,, except yours is nicer. Great find,, I was watching the Hillbillies in the last year and I think it is the one she thought was a washing machine.

Are you sure that set is from 1964? I just looked at the pictures and could swear I saw a knockout plug on the control panel where the UHF tuner would be, in an all-channel TV. (I had an uncle who owned a Sylvania 23" console with just such a UHF knockout, opposite the VHF tuner; his was almost certainly pre-April 30, 1964.) If yours is in fact from '64, it may have been manufactured either in late '63 or the early part of 1964, before April 30. The only other thing I can come up with, if this is indeed an all-channel set, is that the UHF tuner shows in the same window as the VHF one, when the latter is set to the UHF position. We had a Sears Silvertone all-channel 17" portable when I was growing up that was set up that way; turn the VHF tuner to the position between channels 2 and 13 and, lo and behold, there was the UHF dial, orange with black numerals, not illuminated. Not the most attractive UHF tuner setup I've ever seen, but then again this TV wouldn't have won any awards for best-looking set of the 1960s; as a matter of fact, this had to be one of the plainest looking portables I've ever seen in my life. I had a Silvertone roundie color set in a huge metal cabinet that wasn't much to look at, either. This set had the threaded holes in the base for screw-in legs, which I never did find; I didn't need them as I always used this set as a table model anyway, the three years I had it--until the video output tube socket broke out of the video-amp circuit board in 1973. :no:

I suspect that is indeed a knockout plug for the UHF tuner... the original post states that the model # is 14g908mv which is VHF only... the UHF/VHF version of this set (Cherbourg) is model # 14g908mu. GREAT looking set, Nice score! :banana::banana::banana:

jr

It does have the knock out for uhf it may be from 1963 I have a AD that is simuler from 64 but it has uhf tuner knob that is what made me think it was 1964.

One little tip (applicable to the CTC-15, 16, 17 and 25 chasses)-- the two ground stakes on the far right end of the chroma board can go open-ground, killing the heater voltage on the two 6GU7s. Their plates go high, driving the CRT G1s positive, causing beam current to avalanche, which can quickly kill the 3A3 and flyback. So always reflow those two grounds as a precaution.

The symptom of the 6GU7 heaters going out is - the raster will bloom badly while going out of focus and then fade out.

Bill(oc)

Thanks Bill for the tip I will be sure to do that.

I found the episode granny gets the TV and thinks it's a washing machine
and it is the same set.
I guess this means I have a RCA Victor New Vista Color washing machine:scratch2::D

I notice the flyback is exposed on that set where the newer ones are in a basically air tight can. Is that factory or is the cover missing?

On my 16, 17 and 35 the flybacks are all in a solid can and get hotter than I would like.

Looks like the HV lid/door "is" missing. It would be wise to aquire one. An original RCA one would be nice with the tube chart sticker on it but at least there's some donor/clones out there!!

Hmmm. :scratch2: That doesn't seem right to me at all. Why would the flyback be enclosed in a can, with no vents or other means of ventilation? I cannot imagine why RCA, which after all pioneered color TV in the '50s, would deliberately design its sets with the flyback transformers sealed up--and in air-tight cans, yet. What must the design engineers have been thinking? :scratch2: After all, the KCS-47 chassis, and probably most of RCA's 1950s sets, had the flyback in a metal cage, ventilated, with a hinged cover. The flybacks in those sets didn't have a chance to get more than just hand warm, if that much. I can see today's off-brand cheap color TVs being built so that the components are driven to within a fraction of an inch of their ratings, if not beyond them (it's a cost-cutting measure), but for crying out loud, not sets built in the 1950s; most TVs of the latter vintage were built conservatively, with components of sizes far exceeding what was actually needed. This is why many people kept and used their 1950s TVs well into the sixties and even the seventies, and the sets often worked quite well all those years. My folks had a 1955 Crosley Super "V" 21" console that worked, very well, into the early 1970s.

Unfortunately, however, this is not true with many if not most of today's cheap FP sets. For one thing, the sets are built so flimsily that the least nudge, for example a cat jumping up on the stand, or anything striking the screen, will send them falling off their stands; second, the video driver ICs in cheap flat-panels are molded into the cable between the chassis and the panel, so that if one or more of those chips should fail, the entire TV set will be rendered useless. These FPs are certainly not your grandfather's TV. :no:

The only exceptions to the foregoing may be high-end Sonys or Panasonics. I read on either Pana's or Sony's web site recently that one or the other (I don't recall which) has finally come up with a FP set that will last 20 years in normal usage, and the sets are currently available for purchase at better stores. However, this longevity comes with a hefty price tag, as I do not think you can touch any of these long-life flat panels for under $2000 at this time.

I have it I just took it off to see how the flyback looks. I will probly leave it off and add a small fan to the set to keep the fly and chassis cool I do this on my sets to protect against heat since I like to watch my sets when there done and parts are not always easy to find. I did order all new electrolytic capacitors for it and checked all the tubes and have replaced the bad ones. I will update and send pics. of it working when it is done.

Jeff,
Yeah, I was never a fan about the upside down rect tube sitting on the flyback design either...but it is a way of ensuring radiation protection as the set cannot operate without the cover/tube in place! And we all know just how much RCAs love to eat Flybacks!!

Damon,
Once you get this set running don't forget about checking HOT current draw and compare that value to the KV. If the HV control pot doesn't equalize things out then the horizontal effeciency coil may need a little tweeking. Anytime a HOT is replaced current should always be checked too.

Keep us informed on your progress...nice set!!

Nice set! If I found one like that over here for $50, I'd be all over it.

well got all the new elec. caps.last week put them in and replaced most of the molar caps with what I had and it still works about the same:tears: the picture gose out of sync and rolls from side to side and it has color bars roling threw the picture all the tubes check good might be an open cap or resistor? I will have to work on it more on my next day off.

Check the Horizontal circuit really well, it looks like that is the problem. It can also be the reason the color won't lock.