Thanks to tvdude1, I have a complete set of knobs :banana: As for the CRT, it's on the way to Scotty for a rebuild :D

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I just got my rebuilt CRT back from Hawkeye. I'm glad I had this old CRT box handy. It made shipping a breeze. I just put inside a slightly larger box with foam between.

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That's real pretty. I wasn't expecting Scotty to recoat the DAG and put a label on it.
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I haven't restored this chassis yet, so I'll have to pull out another chassis to give it a try.

This rebuild cost several times what I paid for the whole set, but I wanted to do it anyway. One, this is a 1st gen. 10FP4 from 1947 and I think it's cool to bring it back to life. Two, it's the only CRT I've ever had rebuilt. Hopefully, it won't be the last, but I fear it might.

That's a Stromberg Carlson 78 rpm slicer changer. The original cartridge is the early GE magnetic cartridge.
That cartridge nearly never goes bad, but, you might have a major problem replacing the needle.
I used to have a rough 802.
A hack job.
Someone tried converting original to 14" rectangular.
Fried chassis.
Cabinet was hacked.
I picked up a rough original chassis, and, what was left of case. It had been sawed in half. I took the entire front panel, and, with difficulty, installed it on hacked case.
I rebuilt chassis, but, major problems.
Radio, and, phono would play great. Reception was fantastic!
But, when I switched it to television, loud POP, smoke, and, B+ crashed!
Apparently, the selector switch had gone bad, and, was dead shorted.
I wasn't able to fix it, and, traded it off.
I was told those switches in the 802 had a big problem with shorting. At the time, they offered factory replacements.
Multi section switch.
The fm reception on radio was really fantastic, and, sound was excellent!
Bill Cahill
Oh, well, I still have the original re built three prong cheater cord. Maybe someday I'll get another 802.

Thanks for the phonograph info. I need to pick up some 78s to try it out.

Yikes! That selector switch sure does need to handle a lot of current. I think it turns on/off all the filament juice to the TV tubes depending on the mode.

I'll be sure to check mine and replace it somehow if it looks fried.

I slapped the rebuilt 10FP4 into an Admiral chassis to try it out. It's really bright :banana: Even with the brightness turned down all the way, the picture is quite watchable.

Here's a sample. Note that I didn't make all the adjustments like centering. I just wanted to make sure it was working.

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