Ah, good point. I hadn't thought about that.

I removed the power / tone control in the hopes i could fix it. I carefully pried back the four tabs holding the AC switch portion on. I tried a few rounds of DeOxit. but it just wasn't helping.

So I drilled out the two small brass rivets to reveal some very corroded contacts. I buffed them using a toothpick and Simichrome then flushed it clean with more DeOxit. That did the trick :)

I didn't have any small rivets on hand so used some small brass tubing. I bent and flattened one end, fed it through and mushed the other end. Finally, I reattached it to the main body and bent the four tabs back. I wired it back into the radio and it's working like a charm.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4102/...e42a97de_z.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4112/...8d5c88c1_z.jpg http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5260/...75cde91b_z.jpg

It was pointed out on another forum some time ago (I think "nostalgiaair") that smaller hollow rivets/eyelets can still be obtained in quantity for wiring up dollhouses, of all things.

Check this out:

http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/index...its--3946.html

LOL - I never would have guessed dollhouses...

I did some experimenting with both diode and capacitor droppers.

The diode circuit required about 14 ohm resistor that kicked out about 1.25 W.

I used a 11 uF cap (two 22 polarized back-to-back) and a 6.8 surge resistor that kicked out about 0.6 W. It also has a softer startup than the diode circuit so this is what I'll go with.
Next time i place a parts order, I'll get a proper non-polarized cap.

I also added a 1 A fuse for safety.

Thanks for all the tips :thmbsp:

Love the watchmaker's skill on that switch. Bravo!