I don't have one but I could probably order one on ebay. What should one cost?
http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...pslaok9zgj.jpg

http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/y...psqjvcr0ku.jpg

A soldering GUN may also work as a degaussing coil in a pinch.

+1 - I used to degauss computer monitors aboard ship with a Weller 8200 Soldering gun. For the 19" Zenith we had in the office, we had to use a degaussing coil. You can make your own - 22 gauge wire, 34 turns in a 12-13" diameter coil. I put a momentary rocker switch in mine - others use a plain rocker switch. Wrap the whole thing up in electrical tape, wire the switch in series with the coil, adding a 8' power cord. We extended our cord - sometimes when using in a customer's home, the nearest outlet was 1-2 feet beyond the cord length.

Where to get the wire? Junked BPC sets. Look for copper wire - aluminum wire heats up, and you don't want hot wire in your hands. If the connections to the coil are soldered, it's copper - for aluminum, they used crimps.


Cheers,

About $45.83 http://www.ebay.com/itm/COLOR-TELEVI...item5b0f3c0474

Some of them are cheaper but then the shipping is higher, probably not worth the cost for a one time use on a set that may have more serious problems.

If you have a Weller Soldering Gun I would try using it as a degausser first.

And to think, I just scrapped several from junk sets I scrapped out. I have a switch somewhere as well but not sure what type. Only iron I have right now is a $7 cheapo from Wal-Mart. need to upgrade on that soon. I wonder how many sets I'd have to tear down in order to have enough wire.:scratch2:

A big screen set's degauss coil should if looped down to ~14" should last a minute or two at line voltage before getting hotter than you want to handle.

If you take that and watch the temp it should work.

If you make your own coil you MUST put a
spring loaded switch on it. Once the boss degaussed a
set & just put the coil down. He ran an errand & when
he got back the place was full of smoke & the coil melted into the
set he put it on.
Dont get me wrong I am not a paranoid safety nut. In fact I
am always ripping off safety tags & those damn furniture
tags !!!

73 Zeno:smoke:

I dont think its blue. That is probably a MOV metal oxide varistor.
Its purpose in life is to short out & blow the fuse with a large
surge.
Most thermistors are silverish-grey, dime sized & have the
leads solder on the sides.

73 Zeno:smoke:

And you said it begins with an "R". I'll check it again.

Looks like RT14201. There's a rectangular print on the board with two wires coming up and hooking over toward each other at the top. Moved the tv into the other room and now most of the correct color is back. rainbow is at the bottom now, lol

So this is all I need.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1429205466

You need to be sure that it's the right kind of thermistor. Some drop resistance when they get hot (used in PC power supplies), not what you want here. You want a thermistor that increases resistance when it gets hot. Any BPC set will have one (often enclosed in a plastic squarish box), and you could use its degauss coil as well.

The thermistor pictured above is 100% Right, per RCA.

i'll have to order one in a couple weeks. Looks like around $11.

What is your location? I may have one or two, used but good. CTC18X-CTC201 (and possibly the ATC101/M134 chassis) all used the same part number thermistor per RCA. If you are in the US, PM me your address and I'll get one to you. I junked a curb-crawl RCA CTC203 in 2010, and another RCA not-sure-of-chassis in 2012.

Of note - most BPC sets of late (as WA2ISE correctly pointed out), use a PTC thermistor, usually 15-25 ohms. I had a stock of RCA 141239 thermistors I used or gave away, and they replaced about 90% of the 2 legged kind in 32" and smaller sets.

I scavenged the 3 legged TDK/Kamko thermistors from anything I junked, so I had plenty of both kinds at one time. I may still have one or two, but just about any 2-legged thermistor from a BPC set will replace any other. For a 36" set such as this RCA, the inductance/resistance of the coil places a bigger load on the thermistor, so you'll want to have the original type if possible for longer thermistor life.

Old sets using the thermistor/varistor combination used an NTC thermistor, and most are replaceable with a Workman FR191, FR291, or FRTV kit. Oneida, Ambassador, and GC Walsco had similar thermistors with similar part numbers (GB191, GBTV, etc.), typically 100 - 150 ohms cold.

Just please - don't go buying a 25 dollar thermistor on eBay - what a ripoff. My CTC16 has a new Workman I got off of eBay for 2.99, plus 4 bucks shipping. ......and then I found my stash of thermistors. :grumpy:


Cheers,