I was thinking that exact thing too...

Because I double and triple checked the values before I installed them in to the set. I intentionally did this board first because it can't be serviced or accessed with out removing the CRT, so I wanted to get it done first.

At least it didn't hurt the flyback. It's still producing a solid 6kV.

There is one bee that translated to having a 1,600V rating, which I don't have any with a voltage rating over 630, so I left it, and it has an electrolytic in the horizontal section of 475. Another voltage rating I own none of.

I may be wrong, but the way I read 'em:

Left Large = 3 3 000 10% 600v
Right large = 4 7 000 20% 600v
Right small = 1 0 00 20% 400v
top = 1 0 0 20% 400v

top one is difficult to read on my screen.

jr

So translated as long as I understood correctly reading the chart would be.

.047uF 10% 600V
.033uF 20% 600V
.01uF 20% 400V

Right?

First two ok... then:

.001uf 20% 400V
.0001uf 20% 400V

jr

Okay.

I'm going to sit and wait for the schematic to come, first. Then I'm going to dig in again. I am not going to mess anything else up because I know right where I sit right now, and I can very easily track back and correct mistakes.

The CRT has to come out, and part of the deflection yolk is falling apart. It'll still work, but I don't want to risk it not working at all since the plastic shell is crumbling off.

Fair warning: schematics can have typos, or not reflect the production change revision of the set in front of you, check values labeled on parts against the schematic, and watch for differences.

My first TV restoration burned me that way...It was a '53 Zenith, and the sams listed a different value by a factor of 10 for the cap on the parts list than it did in the schematic. I could not read bee caps at the time (and it was full of them), and replaced them based on what it read on the schematic......It had a no video problem at the time and the typo was on a vertical stage cap. I was between residences in Wi. and Fl. at the time and a couple of years in when I finally got video back I became aware of the problem....The vertical was scanning at 120Hz instead of 60....I had no caps or money at the time (mid way through highschool) to try the other cap value listed, and no clue where the original was so I fixed the issue with decade box engineering.....I connected a resistance decade box in place of several of the resistors until I found a value I could change a resistor to to restore it to 60Hz operation.

I used lousy caps on it then, and did not change them all (since I was bad at parts sourcing back then) so it is almost due for a re-recap....When I get to that I'm going to see if I can re-fix (it has not relapsed) that vertical issue 'right'.

I could give you two or more examples of sams leading me to the wrong move, but I've already rambled plenty.

Oops. I read that small cap on the right backwards. It's a 0.001 at 400 volts like jr tech said.

I did a four part video restoration series on this same model on YouTube recently.

That includes fabricating a new yoke cover from scratch using styrene plastic stock. Here's that segment: https://youtu.be/UXyra3vNYuQ?t=2m6s

I also took a bunch of photos while working on it that may be helpful to you. https://www.flickr.com/photos/700398...57652163729602

Hah. That's amazing. Could I pay you to make one for me? That kinda stuff I am no good at, at all.