That's the nicest rant I've ever seen, the only thing missing is an apology.

No, you are exactly right. I will always take a vintage tv, regardless if it is my "taste" or not.


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Wow, I can't believe that 10-month old post is finally being rebuked. What took you so long?

Anyway, my interpretation of Olorin67's post is very similar to Tom's. The guy doesn't like that style of cabinetry, and the US & Canadians both had the gall to build them against his wishes.

But that's just his opinion, and it if isn't the same as yours, it's still no big deal. It wasn't an insult to the Canadians, as it put them on par with Americans like himself. Or did you think he was insulting both Americans & Canadians? If he was, shame on him. But I know him, and he was not intending to hurt anyone's feelings, nor did he intend to insult Canadians.

But back in the day those sets were being built, a lot of people did appreciate that style, verified by the number that were sold and still exist. That just shows a large percentage of Americans & Canadians both had poor taste in the day. ;)

Now for my honest opinion: I agree with Olorin67; I think those sets are ugly.

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No probs Electronic M. and,.. I don't use a translator from english to french . yes i speak french,, the poetic language loll..

I don't have a schematic and doubt I can get one easily.

Okay, I can forget the blue shaping control. I found service info for a similar chassis that says it's factory pre-set and not to touch it.

Anyway, the CRT is in better shape than I thought. I fixed the cold joint on the left horizontal blue control and re-installed the convergence board. However, I'm having trouble with blue static convergence, the up/down control. I can get red and green to sync no problem, but I can't get blue spot-on no matter what I do. A resistor in the area of the cold joint gets very warm and the knob on that control was discolored and broke off when I tried to adjust it. Perhaps that resistor has gone bad?

Well, because of that hot-running resistor I tried adjusting the blue shaping coil. I figured whoever threw off convergence so badly messed with it anyway. I tried to use my meter with the peak hold function on to measure peak voltage, but no dice. I don't think that meter ever worked very well for me and now I think it's had the biscuit. My alignment tool soon stripped and I couldn't back the slug out, but that resistor is running a lot cooler and no others I've checked are getting hot.

I finally found the right service manual so I should be able to get most of my questions answered soon. I have one more though that should be easy enough for someone with an ECG catalog to answer for me...

This set has a Varo MH1203E01 tripler. What does it cross to?

Jon found the main part of the part number but not the E01 but all ones with that main number are all ECG523. Hope that is just a variant for Electrohome. All the best Tom.J

Excellent, thanks Tom. I saw a topic on another forum that mentions a Varo tripler and that the last part of the code doesn't matter. You're probably right about it being it being an Electrohome variant; the topic is about an Advent Videobeam front projection TV, which I read use Electrohome chassis and whose original tripler code ended with E01.

I've gotten the blue static convergence near perfect by subbing the unusual replacement blue lateral with one from my Zenith flatty. The original fell apart during cleaning. It still has a red purity issue I can't correct with the neck magnets or manual degaussing but I've done my best to compensate. I'll experiment with correction magnets eventually... or maybe not. I haven't touched the setup controls in months.

While I was tracing wires under the chassis the degaussing thermistor fell apart. My schematic doesn't indicate its value and I don't have a complete parts list. There are numbers along the edge: 60-01 or maybe 10-09 if I'm reading it upside-down. I don't know if that's its value or what.

Edit: I finally found an original service manual, so now I can always get the information I need.

beautiful set.

Re-cap time?
 

Thanks Ron. I'll always be doing my best to keep this one running.

I think it's time for new e-caps. It's been having intermittent video problems for a while and now the picture has gone all screwy, so I've swapped it out with a console a few years newer until I can fix it. I don't want to risk catastrophic failure of something harder to get my hands on.

There's at least one e-cap marked "bi-polar"; I know what this is but don't know why it's in this set. I have to check a couple others under the chassis but so far it seems the rest are polarized.

There are also three oddball caps I hadn't seen the likes of before. I've attached a photo.

I've attached a screenshot as well, in hopes someone will recognize the symptoms and confirm that the caps are going bad. It's full of el-cheapo e-caps, many marked "Singapore".

The cap you've circled is some type of film cap, and I think not likely to be a problem, but maybe someone with direct experience can comment.

Yes, they're poly caps, I found them on the parts list. There must have been some production changes as the parts list for the main PCB for example shows only 12 of the 13 e-caps. I went through the whole thing to make up a list and plot their locations. There's just that one non-polar cap. Then there are the power supply cans, a two section and a three section.

By the way, I appreciate the input.