Haha, they stopped bleeding thanks!

So, as everyone suggested I removed the 9-88 module and the sound module, cleaned contact and put back in place, and I must have done somenthing right because now, I have absolutly no sound Haha. I checked the speaker and its got 14.6 ohms across with the wires unpluged from the module, which I guess is good? What would be the easiest way to check if the module is bad, mesure voltage at the speaker lead?

As for the low brightness I have a theory : could it be that the seperate guns adjustments are too low? The TV has a perfect grayscale, but pots are maybe 25% up, red a little lower.

jstout66, I just might take you up on that offer! Let me run some more test and we'll see what modules might be the culprints, and I might just ask you for those!

BTW I use Nu-Trol from Mg chemicals to clean contacts. It might not be as good as deoxit, but it cost about half the price and usually do the job.

adjust the sub bright control. i cant remember if was on the chassis or a small hole around the bright and contrast controls.

I forgot about that.... are you adjusting the brightness and contrast with the auto color button off? You'll need to. If it's in auto color, the brightness and contrast would need to be adjusted with a small screw-driver. The controls were usually in the center of the control shaft.

I dont see any sub brightness adjustment anywhere...but there is a "brightness range" on the 9-88 (luminance) module, could it be that?

No.....
You won't see the controls.
Before we see if it is that.. turn the "chromatic" button off, and adjust the controls. Do you have proper range? If not, than your video module is most likely bad. If you DO have proper range, than the auto settings are too low.

Chromatic is off and the brightness is set at 100% and picture at about 80%, I don't think this would be considered proper range.

I will try to remove, clean and reinstal the 9-89 (video module) to see if its only bad contacts.

What do you mean by "I won't see the control" ? Do you mean the sub bright is hidden somewhere and not easily spottable?

Thanks!

Chromatic switch works like this.
OFF ( not red ) works off the normal controls for brite, color, tint
& picture ( contrast ). You can adjust them by hand.
ON ( RED ) turns all those controls OFF. The 4 controls are hollow
& have a duplicate screwdriver control behind the regular control.
When ON you adjust for best pix. It also turns on ATG
( auto tint guard ) that has nothing to do with your troubles.
For now just run it in off.

If you havent check the long package on the 9-88-? They were a
"check EVERY ONE" for cold solder. Most had cold joints after a few yrs.
The 9-89 probably is OK & almost any problem is related to one
color. IIRC it had just the video out & 3 color out transistors.

We refer to short hand module part numbers. Keep in mind many are
newer versions and have more numbers like 9-88-01, 9-90-02,
150-190-01 etc. You need them to get the RIGHT replacements !

Lastly with good grey scale & the G-2 controls at about 25%
you have a as new or nearly CRT.

73 Zeno:smoke:

the 9-88 looks fine, and after letting the TV play a few more hours and adjusting the "brightness range" I would say that this TV has no brightness problem after all. Picture is amazingly good! (after convergence and focus adjust of course)

Now I really need to get that sound sorted out. I powered the TV today and the sound came back, but with that god awful snow sound. Speaker seems fine (reads 15 ohms). Took a picture of the sound board, would it be possible that the volume wire is not pluged in the right place? (look at the sticker on the bottom left corner).

Also , but this is a minor problem, I seem to be at the extreme (no more range) for the focus adjustement. Fortunatly the focus is good enough, but I can go no further on the adjustment and I do not have sufficient range to see the focus go bad after the sweet spot...does it means that I would need a new focus divider?

Edit

Made a video of the problem : https://youtu.be/2rv4x7kawYg

Focus is almost always the tripler. Check it for cracks,
it may start arcing on the first hot humid day. Also watch for
arcing at CRT socket but you should smell & hear that.

Dont remember any audio problems, odds are 99% its
on the module.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Evening guys,

Just a quick message to let you know I am still searching for a 9-103-04 module to get the sound going on my Zenith. Apart from that and probably the trippler this set is really great and I would very much get it going 100%. So if any of you has a spare 9-103-04 lying somewhere please feel free to PM me.

Zeno, would you be able to tell me what is the trippler part number for my set? I don't see any number on it. And I also didn't see any arcing or anything of the sort , but I would like to get another one just in case because of the slightly out of focus image.

Thanks everyone!

Should be stamped on it. If OEM part # 212-141-?? most likely.
Most were subbed to 977-36. Be sure to use the right thing.
check with findemkeepem, IIRC he has the sub books for the
modules & maybe tripler. If you cant find part ## let me know
& I will look into it.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Alright, the tripler seems to be 212-145.

Also, how many safety capacitors is this thing supposed to have? I checked the chassis and can only spot the big one under the HOT...but I see those white guys also...I am in trouble?

The white things in the second pic are power resistors...Ceramic (white) safety caps are tubular not rectangular.

Ok, thanks, I was worried for an instant there. I can't see any white tubular caps then. So there is only 1 safety cap on that chassis? I seems to remember CC1 had more.

CCI (tube/hybrids) had no safety caps. CCII had them and they are either white or orange...White bad. orange good.