This is a very interesting observation.

I believe by this time they had dropped the cadmium from the green (which made it brighter, but yellower, producing a cyan color bar that was very grayish). (The cadmium was determined to be an environmental hazard.) This means that the green formula was based on copper-activated zinc sulfide like everyone else's green, but there could be unique differences among makers depending on the use of co-activators like gold or aluminum. With the deletion of cadmium, the efficacy of the green was reduced such that it could be the limiting primary for tube brightness rather than red, for D65 color temperature. However, no TV manufacturers at the time setup for D65; they were generally much more blue/cyan, partly as a habit from earlier days. Zenith used a unique 8000K setup that was not as blue as others, but still had a clean white look that accented reds and yellows by contrast, and provided more stable skin tones. I don't know exactly what combination of activators Zenith used in green or the exact color coordinates of the resulting green. I also note that the "stunning" nature of a particular color bar can be influenced greatly by the color demodulator gains and angles.

Dusted inside the set today. After that, I watched the news for about an hour. It has a very good picture, except that it has a little snow.

Vibrant colors.

Is that a coax input on the left, or is that another one of the weird built-in baluns?


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That is a 75ohm coax input. I have a first gen CCII Avanti that uses the same style antenna board. The extra balun on the screw terminals is completely superfluous.

How you use the 75ohm input on these sets is counter intuitive though...When you unscrew the F-connector the male end on the wire is your tuner input (not the female connector mounted on the board as one might expect)...You can confirm by following that wire to the tuner. Since that lead is too short to reach the back of a VCR or anything else useful that you might want to connect it to I recommend you find a double ended female f-type connector (I rip them out of old cable wall plates) such as the one below and use it to connect a longer coax to the antenna lead. You will probably have much less static with a direct 75 ohm connection instead of going through 2 baluns in series as you appear to be doing.

http://s3.showmecables.com/images/ca...-Adapter-1.jpg

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Thanks. I'll look into that.