Originally Posted by Magnavox300 (Post 3222739)

Thanks for all the help...
I was wondering why the HV lead wire cap didn't fit on the top of any 6BQ6 tubes I had!
I'll have to just go ahead and order a 6BC6 tube...
Of course I have a million tubes, but not a 6BC6!!
I am assuming they stamped both numbers on the chassis next to the socket for different chassis circuits?
Will update once I get the new tube!
Thanks again!

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3222740)

Doorknobs tend to fail leaky or shorted so a DMM won't catch it unless it shorts badly....I had one that leaked intermittently sometimes the set would wakeup and work normally other times it had absolutely no HV.
The best way to test a doorknob when you suspect it is the cause of no HV is to disconnect it on one end and keep use a glass object to prevent the HV from arcing at the disconnect point. Bypassing the doorknob cap (by that I assume you mean putting a short across it) is about the same as putting a gun to your foot and pulling the trigger...
The resistor in the rectifier base that has doubled in value is VERY bad and should be changed...that resistor is designed to limit the rectifier filament voltage and it's value must be precise. Too low and the HV rect filament is overvolted and dies fast, too high and the HV rect filament does not heat up enough for HV to pass through the rect to the CRT.

Your incorrect H output tube is your biggest problem right now though...Get that tube right first and then worry about the rect and doorknob if the HV stir ain't working.

Originally Posted by Magnavox300 (Post 3222741)

I meant a 6CD6!!!!
Im must be getting old!!

Originally Posted by old_coot88 (Post 3222743)

Me too.:tongue: If you got a good 6BG6 in your stash it should sub in a pinch.

Originally Posted by EdKozk2 (Post 3222755)

Please disregard what I said about the chassis your sets fuses are. It looks like you have the Admiral 21E1 chassis. It used a 6H6 for the some of the production runs.
Ed

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3222754)

Some sets made around the Korean war had changes to the tube line up and other weirdness to account for shortages. Check the base wiring of that tube against the schematic...if it matches that of the tube of the schematic but not the one in the set then the schematic is right, but if it is significantly different from the schematic it may be a production change not documented on the schematic you have.

Other weird things they did included using odd looking German resistors and or American made factory rejects where the marked value was wrong but the measured value was right...

Originally Posted by dieseljeep (Post 3222761)

I remember seeing German Siemens resistors with the flat leads and Koaohn
Japanese resistors. Those are the dog-bone style. Also series-parallel combinations used. I saw it more in Admirals, than outer makes.

Originally Posted by Magnavox300 (Post 3222762)

Thanks, yes I did see at least one “dog bone” resistor in there, didn’t know they were Japanese! Also funny to see all the parallel resistors in there...
Could I simply replace them with half the value? Or were they done that way for a reason?