Is it just the photo, or is that 12LP4 aluminized? 12KP4??

No, it's not aluminized.

How did you get that tuner cover off? It has small phillips head screws behind the RF towers and I can't get to them.

Lee:smoke:

Needle nose pliers and patience

Ah. No easy way. Just like when I cleaned up an RA-105B tuner 20 years ago.

Lee:smoke:

Who's up for a challenge? Speaker cone is trashed and output transformer primary is open.

New cone has been ordered and I dug up a transformer I think will work. At least it's the same size and has continuity.
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Meanwhile, I patched the set up enough to try a full power up. Relay is still bypassed and power resistor just tacked in place.
Need to dig up a new eye tube too.

Also, discovered the flyback is a replacement and not secured very well.

Replaced HV cable with more convention HV cup and rigged up a 5AXP4.

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After a few pops and cracks that made me jump, we have a raster!
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A lot of control fiddling later, we have an image. Tuner seems to be off by a couple channels.
I'm both surprised and relieved this set actually produces an image after all it's been through.
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Some tube swapping and more control twiddling and we have a decent image.
Mind you I have no shields installed and am feeding a signal in with alligator clips.
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One thing you can do is remove the IIRC 4 Philips screws under chassis that hold the tuner to the chassis and with the tuner loose you can get to those screws....I will add the caveat that Ive never owned a square dial 103 (only both versions of the round dial) so I don't know if the square dial tuners allow you to do this as easily. I've had at least 3 RA-103 tuners off in the something like half dozen RA-103s I've benched. Two were to swap when I was making a good chassis out of 2 mouse eaten ones, and the other was to deal with a snowy picture issue...That one it turned out that a mica in the lower compartment of the tuner that coupled the antenna to the RF amp had a snapped off lead at the cap body.

Just about done, but have one annoying issue.
The dial scale is off and I can't tune below channel 4!
Now the cam kicks in at the right spot where it spreads out the FM radio portion but LO is off.

Closer examination revealed that when I am tuned as low as it will go, there are still a couple turns left on the coil.
When I'm at the top of the dial, the coil is nearly at the opposite end.

It seems like I need to bump all three coils over one turn.

Is that even possible and, if so, how? Short of taking it apart that is.
Is there a way to adjust the mechanical stop?
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It sure looks like one could tweak C23 to shift the LO. Not sure if I can get at it easily or if that would also require tweaking C16 and C17 to track properly.
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Bob, if you have full shaft rotational travel stop to stop, just pop out all 3 sliding contact fingers (one under each coil) and reinstall them on the end winding. Just push them out from the side with a small screwdriver. I always pop them out to clean them. One coil is reverse spiral so one contact goes in on the opposite end from the other 3.

Yikes. Do they really come out that easily? That big IF can will make one section extra tricky.
Before I attempt, I want to double check reception at the upper end of the dial.

Yes, upper end also off by about two channels. Ok I'll give it a try

Well, down the rabbit hole we go...

I removed the stop and turned one more rotation towards the low end and it's now cleaned and lubed.
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So, the rollers are all shifted over one rotation now. Did it solve the problem? Sort of.
Yes, I can receive 3 and 4 now, but 3 is smeared over a big range. I think I need to adjust the cam behind the dial that alters the action through the FM band. Upper VHF reception seems a bit degraded but the goal to get clean 3 & 4 has been achieved.