Is there room to mount a rectangular CRT if you had to? Like a 17BP4?

Yes, if the glass and plastic bezel are off, there there is a very large space, but how easy is a 17BP4 to find?

ETF does have some 16L/CP4 tubes, which are rather close, and could be adapted if need be.

Trivial, compared to a 16AP4. There are lots of other 17" rectangular CRTs too. Got one for $20 at the last swap meet.

Chassis removed.
http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0223251338.jpg

Looks like it's been worked on before, those orange drops are not original, the multi section capacitors are shot, looks like they got hot, one is bulged.

The filter choke looks awful, (L112), looks baked, dark enamel , exposed copper, seen on the lower left corner of the main section, it does not test open or short, but it looks toasted, as if C201A had shorted and overloaded it.
And since there is no type info for replacement that I can find yet, but this horizontal output section seems to be very close to the RCA 630TS, having the same pi filter feeding the damper, I tracked down the replacement shown in the SAMS for a RCA 630TS, (stancor c-2326) for $13, my guess that it's correct enough to work.

With that, does anyone know if there is any other service info on this set, other than the SAMS I found with just the schematic? Cause w/o a guide to what is what and where, it's gonna be a royal pain!
Thanks! :D

Don't forget the horizontal output transformer has two filament windings. 10 and 12" CRT varieties only used one. It's possible you could move the HV filament loops from your old flyback to a replacement, but there could be other subtle differences in the other windings. I wouldn't assume yours is bad until you get it operational. Have you figured out what this TV's model number is?

I have that in mind, I'm not sure if the flyback in this set is good or bad yet, I'm hoping it's OK, I just know that so far that the filter choke looks like hell, will post a pic of it later.

If by chance the FBT is bad, i still have the RAM replacement that I have for my FADA, 895, that should work, i would just have to add a 2nd winding.
the chassis is a ct-245.

No longer available info. :D

Got it! Tks! :D
that will help!

They seem to be missing a parts detail of the audio amp area. :(
Something has been chewing on the caps in that area:tears:


http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251601a.jpg
sad looking filter

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603d.jpg
bad caps

http://suzaku.live-evil.org/0224251603c.jpg
FBT

Wire broke off when i removed the cap from the tube
any way you can get a more detailed shot of page 6-4? focusing in on the chassis detail and not so much the text? cause when you zoom in, it gets fuzzy and it;s hard to make out the numbers, TKS ! :D

Will try doing that tomorrow when I have some sunlight.

oops double posted.

Curious how well the 16FP4 (60 degree) worked as a replacement for the 16AP4 (52 degree)? I would expect the additional 8 degrees of deflection required was remedied some how?
I tried a 16GP4 (70 degree) in place of a 16EP4 (60 degree) in a Zenith porthole, and ended up with a neck shadow issue of about an inch, as the yoke couldn't be slid enough forward.
I read once where the "old timers" would soften the yoke in an oven, then force it over a bottle to flare it open a little. Fixed, LOL... Gotta love them old timers.

P.S.

You'll never "neck" one of these with that "2x4" running down the back, LOL
:lmao:

Any opinions on that crappy looking filter coil? :(

I tried this several times but the original is so small and the print quality has reduced the definition of some of the component numbers. Possibly someone else has a better quality print in their Riders 6, but I suspect this happened when they reduced the original to fit the page space.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/152661...7720324061767/

If it works brush some polyurethane on for additional insulation and wrap paper around it for appearance.