Originally Posted by vol.2 (Post 3267133)

It's out of spec and should be replaced, but it is unlikely to be the problem with your set. It's 70% of spec which is almost certainly not going to bring a whole portion and the circuit to its knees.

If there is something wrong with your set that it not just the CRT tube failing, then you will probably be able to find a problem with something in the service manual. There should be voltages listed all over the place, and possibly waveforms to check with an oscilloscope. Sony was pretty good with the waveforms, and a Sam's should have them too.

First order of business is to verify all of the power supplies. TVs tend to have a bunch of supply sources taken from both the initial power supply of the sytem, and also some derived from flyback pulses. Check all of them.

Once you've done that, start checking voltages on ICs and make sure everything is correct.

Then check all the waveforms.

At some point, you'll find an issue.

Keep in mind that voltages and waveforms are specified with a specific input condition, like a color bars input or a window input, etc.

What you have displayed on the screen will change voltages in many places, and waveforms in many places.

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267144)

I don't have an oscilloscope, nor a color bar generator, I use a DVBT with color palette as a generator, from what I understood by reading R812 it is part of the ABL (Automatic Brightness Limiter) circuit, but I don't know if I misunderstood the diagram

Originally Posted by vol.2 (Post 3267151)

It's out of spec and should be replaced. It's not likely that being that much out would mess things up that much. It's 70% of value, and the typical tolerance is 80%-120%. So it's a little low, not a smoking gun.

Even if you don't have a scope, you can use your DMM to check all the power rails shown in the service manual to start. If you can verify those are good, you can start checking voltages around transistors associated with the circuits that might have an effect on the brightness.

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267157)

However, I didn't even solve the problem with the resistor, I found two 516 ohm 1 w ones, I put them in series but it's still the same, but I noticed something that I had never stopped to look at, as soon as I put the white image and the decoder that uses the charge on the screen, the image is clearer, then once it goes to full screen it becomes gray, I also noticed that the white writing on the colored background is white, even the red overlay menus of the decoder when they are small are much brighter and more vivid, however, putting the menus in full screen turns off the brightness, as if it lacked power to keep the image bright at full screen, yet the voltages are correct, on pin 4 of the flyback transformer there are 122v, at the output of D805 near the flyback transformer there are 199v.

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267166)

I took other measurements, I'll have to find something wrong ��, so, on + of C824, according to the diagram, 24 V should be coming, but I find 16.3 V. Then, continuing with D807 in parallel with C820, I find 3.8 V. I tested D807 disassembled and the multimeter is fine. If I read the diagram correctly, D807 and C820 go to pin 9 of the flyback .
The 24 V line that goes to C824 comes from pin 7 of this thing that I don't know what it is, I have to locate it on the board.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MI5...w?usp=drivesdk

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267157)

as soon as I put the white image and the decoder that uses the charge on the screen, the image is clearer, then once it goes to full screen it becomes gray, I also noticed that the white writing on the colored background is white, even the red overlay menus of the decoder when they are small are much brighter and more vivid, however, putting the menus in full screen turns off the brightness, as if it lacked power to keep the image bright at full screen, yet the voltages are correct, on pin 4 of the flyback transformer there are 122v, at the output of D805 near the flyback transformer there are 199v.

Originally Posted by vol.2 (Post 3267207)

I am not good enough to figure it out from the symptoms you previously described, but I feel pretty confidant that, if it's not a CRT problem, that you have a power regulation issue.

If the image suddenly get darker like that, then I would assume your power supply is getting swamped.

I think your best hope here is for one of the other more experienced guys to chime in and offer a suggestion. You might want to keep your comment focused on this information.

If anything, I would run more tests with on-screen information and document the conditions under which you see the "correct" brightness and when you don't. Maybe even a little video you can post somewhere and make a link to, showing how you are able to achieve the proper brightness under those conditions, and when it starts to fail. That would give people a better idea about what is happening, and they might see something that tips them off that you wouldn't recognize.

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267208)

you can see the difference between the two TVs,

Originally Posted by bigboss80 (Post 3267234)

I finally solved the problem, it was in the ABL circuit, R816 was interrupted and the system went into protection and therefore lowered the power of the tube.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...u4ufxRiVzpYrnV

Originally Posted by vol.2 (Post 3267240)

Fantastic. Love to hear it. Sorry I couldn't be more help, but it looks like you didn't need it.


Based on those pictures your color purity is pretty bad though. It probably needs a good degaussing from a professional level coil device.