When I bought my Radiobar, it looked like someone put their foot through the speaker. I patched it up using the methods described earlier in this thread, but I still had a big hole to patch. I wound up applying a coffee filter patch from the back of the speaker using some rubber cement to glue it to the cone. When it dried, I applied a layer of Aleen's tacky glue to to coffee filter patch visible from the front of the speaker. I then put another coffee filter piece over that, creating a "patch sandwich" from both sides of the cone. I used a little more rubber cement, and after it all dried, it sounded great. In fact, the Radiobar has some of the best bass response of my consoles...too bad the receiver itself is such garbage.

Since it has the automatic control, if there was an acetate cover there must have been some way to easily remove it. There doesn't appear to have been any hinges.

John

If there really was a cover (still debatable :)), it was held in place by friction. Since there isn't a single, scuff, scrape or mar on my wooden clock face frame, I'm voting for no cover at all.

I picked up a few items for the clock. I'm not sure what the second hand is supposed to look like so I selected several.
I think they all look pretty good, but maybe I should clip off the sculpted end so it's more angular like the other hands :scratch2:

I just need to cut down the brass shaft that attaches it. I also picked up a needle oiler and some new #0 screws.

I never thought I'd be restoring a clock!

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2755/...a73a1309_b.jpg

Speaker repair
 

Thanks to all your great tips, I've finished restoring the speaker :banana:
I used brown coffee filter paper and Aleene's Original Tacky glue.


Here's it is all torn up.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4072/...6241c9169a.jpg

First patches applied.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4025/...96c4f99d68.jpg

I used some painters tape to hold it together while the patches set up.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2800/...b99937b338.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4004/...d6415e3007.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2694/...995af77baa.jpg

Down to just that big hole to fill.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2621/...4393e62aed.jpg

I decide to try making a preformed patch by using a plastic sheet over a good portion of speaker cone.
Then, I cut a suitable piece of coffee filter and soaked it in diluted glue.
It work out fairly well. I was definitely able to capture the curvature, but the ridges aren't very distinct.
Even so, I think it's a promising technique.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2709/...318c149c58.jpg

Here's the patch in place.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2653/...c96d4959b7.jpg

Next, some black acrylic paint. The patch wrinkled a little during the gluing and painting, but I happy with it.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4054/...da81da92ef.jpg

Here's the backside.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2757/...642fae60d3.jpg

Finally, I cleaned up that big wooden plug and screwed it back in.
Is this some type of vibration damper :scratch2:
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2602/...68d307b582.jpg

Here's a YouTube video I made while restoring the speaker. If you make it to the end you can hear the radio playing :music:

Excellent work!

Watching your videos on the WR-8, I think I've figured out what that wooden plug in the speaker is for - it might be a deflector to distribute sound around the room, compensating for the upward-firing speaker.

That looks great! You have more patience than I. I would have taken one look at it and sent it in for reconing.

John

That's a very good idea.

Thanks. I was going to until I got some words of encouragement :D This one sure needs some reconing though!

I've seen similar vintage speakers going for around $20. I imagine reconing costs a lot more than that.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2554/...dd6aee81af.jpg

It cost me about $76.00 I'd have to try to find his address, but there's an older gentleman who will do it for $60 and I'm told he does an excellent job. I didn't find out about him until I had mine done.

John

Progress update
 

I've broken the cabinet down as much as I can and have been gluing all the separated veneer.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2771/...f485c625c1.jpg

The veneer has separated at virtually every edge. I wonder what happened to this cabinet - high humidity, heat, crappy glue ?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2699/...c9fbc2e1b0.jpg http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/...9763408699.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2783/...4ca62e27_b.jpg

Here's some of the original finish. I've ordered up some Dark Walnut Mohawk toner lacquer - should be a good match. I'll try golden oak for the center board.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/...74b7663c46.jpg

I also picked up some new speaker cloth from AES that is a perfect match to the old fragments. Here's a dry run.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2775/...32d054db00.jpg

Here's the old filter capacitor. It's pre-electrolytic so that huge box just has a 2 MFD, 3 MFD, 3MFD and 0.05 MFD in there. The new ones are a little bit smaller :D

I'd like to remove that old block of tar but it's being stubborn. I figure it will shave at least 5 pounds off the weight if I can get it out :scratch2: I've tried a heat gun and the oven. Only got the first layer of tar out so far.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2653/...13793d14_b.jpg

Maybe put that capacitor box in the oven for a while to soften up the tar?

Also I was watching some early episodes of 'Homicide: Life On the Streets' and noticed in the Lieutenant's office there was a what I think was a 'Columnaire'. Just caught a glimpse of it.

Nice work for sure.

I've tried that. It did soften up the tar, but the guts just wouldn't slide out. It's tough to work with a big, heavy, hot box oozing tar! I'll give it another go soon.

I wonder if you can soften it up some in the oven. Then run a knife (a nice chef's knife from the kitchen perhaps ;-) ) around the edges to break the bond.

Turn it upside down pop it out. Sorta like a cake or loaf of bread.

Another thought might be to insert a couple of long lag screws or screw eyes into the tar. Would give you something pull on.

I finally got it out :banana::yuck:
Thanks for the suggestions. I let it cook for about 30 minutes @ 300ºF while upside-down. Gravity finally took over.

I like that idea about the screws - I'll try that next time :yes:

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2681/...e17f0ea9_b.jpg

Tar filled multi-Section capacitor, it's what's for dinner!

Good job.

My, that's unpleasant! I bet the house will smell of tar for a few days, Febreeze be damned.

Do you think there will be enough room in that box for the new caps? It looks kinda tight. ;-)

I keep a corkscrew around for such purposes-really works well on the more traditional multisectional lytics we love to restuff.

Yum, yum !! Do you know what the values of the damthaing were/are ? I'd wager you can put modern ones back up in the space vacated by that nasty mess & no one will be the wiser...I sure won't tell...(grin)

A whopping

0.05 MFD
2 MFD
3 MFD
3 MFD

Yeah the new ones will fit with loads of room to spare :D

You know you could make a 'secret compartment'. In high school I used to use a hollowed out metal case tube to hide contraband. The base would pop out with a twist. Not that I'm suggesting anything illicit. :D

LOL - I'm always hoping to find something hidden away in one of these old sets.

The guy I got my Philco 15DX from found some old worlds fair souvenir spoons and a scrapbook of old cigar labels tucked inside.

Cool - any idea which episode?

Yeah, it kinda reeks in here. Too bad it's like 0 outside or I'd open a window.

Not sure. It's early on season one or two. I have the DVD set so I'll go looking sometime.

From time to time there are appearances of other vintage electronics. Like the odd clock radio or old suitcase style record player.

I decided to use some sweet Cornell Dubilier non-polarized polypropylene caps instead of electrolytics. I think it's a little more authentic this way.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4016/...32b77121_b.jpg

That's exactly what I did with my Majestic 71. Not only is it more authentic, they'll outlive us all. I didn't want to risk having to open mine again in the future because of a failed electrolytic. Especially since I had to fabricate a new can.

John

Bandersen -

I'm so thankful for this thread. A couple days after you found your WR-8, I found a WR-8-R, and I've found your thread to be such a help as I've gone through a similar restoration process. It was a huge help to see how you tackled the caps, etc. PLEASE keep posting pics and explanations of what you found worked. I'm especially interested to see how you're going to handle the rest of the caps. There's at least one that's in a box with a choke coil, I believe. Anyway, thanks again, and please keep posting your progress!

Zach

Hi Zach, glad you're enjoying my posts and don't worry - I'll keep them coming. I've just been sidetracked with restoring a couple TVs. I get distracted pretty easily by shiny new toys :D

Here's are some pics to tide you over until I get back to working on it in a week or two.

Here's the toner lacquer I'm going to use. Dark Walnut on the body and Golden Oak on the center board.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4005/...bcd40d2872.jpg

I also picked up some Leather Brown for the power chassis.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4067/...5a77b659f6.jpg

Finally, here are those boxes you asked about. I do plan on popping them open and restuffing. The larger has a 1.0, 0.5 0.1 and 0.1 MFD cap inside. My replacement polypropylene should fit with room to spare.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/...d7949072_b.jpg

However, the smaller cap just takes a single 1.0 MFD and I don't think my new one will fit :tears:
I might need one that's a little "flatter".
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4050/...9276a04d_b.jpg

I don't think there's a choke coil in either box though. Here's the schematic I'm working from. http://www.nostalgiaair.org/PagesByM...3/M0040343.pdf

I really love that old style wiring diagram. It's so easy to trace the wiring!

"However, the smaller cap just takes a single 1.0 MFD and I don't think my new one will fit
I might need one that's a little "flatter"."

How about a couple of 0.5 MFDs side-by-side?

jr

Sure, that's a good idea. I'm just disappointed that I might not be able to use the $3 cap I bought :(

I'm back to working on the radio this weekend. Here's the underside of the receiver chassis. It's a real PITA to get at the capacitors and resistors.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4033/...cf0b97fb_b.jpg

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2801/...7bd9335f_b.jpg

First up, I tackled the 5-section capacitor block.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4026/...ef332157_b.jpg

I discovered that a small chisel is the easy way to pry those heavy steel tabs up without leaving much of a mark.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/...cbdaf898_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4043/...01024e57_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4051/...8c410ae6_b.jpg
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/...f7c65549_b.jpg

I melted out the tar to free up the old caps and expose the metal contacts.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2762/...37a7733c_b.jpg

I cleaned up all the parts with lacquer thinner.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2690/...a518f7e5_b.jpg

Here are the new caps wired in. I'll be used some two-part epoxy to glue them down the the backing board.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2764/...75f48228_b.jpg

Here's a dry fit of it all back together. I think I'll just stuff a little packing material inside rather than filling it with a potting compound. Never know if I might need to get back in there :)
I'll also be painting it flat black.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4057/...c0e7916b_b.jpg

Next, I took a closer look at that nasty IF can.
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4006/...13573349_b.jpg

Luckily it's just surface corrosion and it came off easily with some rust remover. I couldn't resist trying a little metal polish on them :) The plating is gone from the corroded areas so they're dull grey.
Of course, no one will ever see them on the underside of the chassis once it's back together.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2757/...5a814444_b.jpg

I didn't realize cadmium polished up this well. I just may have to go over the entire topside. I wonder how long before it starts turning green again :scratch2:
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4042/...c917bcc0_b.jpg

Looking good! I hope you're wearing gloves when you polish the cadmium. We need you to continue to be around to educate us!

John

Thanks! Yes, I'm taking precautions and I really should have mentioned that. Cadmium is nasty stuff :yuck:

Here's a lilnk to more info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_poisoning

Good job, takes a heart surgeon's touch in some of those spots. As to needing a "flatter" 1.0 mfd. cap, Electronic Goldmine has a 1.5 mfd. 600V that's flat:
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G12721

If they had just used some screws instead of metal tabs, it would all be so much easier!

Thanks for the tip about Electronic Goldmine - I'd forgotten about them. I'll pop that cap open this weekend and find out the exact dimensions.

Here's a little update. I've finished restuffing and repainting the two multi-section caps. That just leaves the 1 MFD box cap. I picked up a new cap that's a little smaller and I think it will fit.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2787/...e606d028_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4046/...66bf30f1_b.jpg

Nice! Time to start heating up the tar?:yuck:

jr

Oh, no - no way :no: I spent way too much time cleaning all that tar out :D
I've refilled a couple with wax before, but I think I'll just use a little foam packing to prevent vibration.