I tried resoldering the filament pins, and they still test open. At some point (probably after swapping in the known good tube) I may completely remove the socket and test directly to the wires. For now, it's just no go. The socket is a bit loose, and I tried wiggling it, but no success.

Both this 21FJ and the replacement 21FB are marked Zenith, but have RCA EIA codes (274)

I got back to trying to clean the donor faceplate, and nothing seemed to work - there was always a residue, until:

I got some nail polish remover (acetone) and that seemed to be loosening the hazy stuff and moving it around (but still leaving something). So then I tried full concentration dish soap, and voila! It removed everything this time, I guess because the acetone left stuff that was now removable.

Since the donor faceplate rubber gasket seems in decent shape, I intend to use it.

I am wondering if (with the set on its face) I can drop the faceplate in first, then set the regunned tube in on it, rather than trying to fasten the faceplate to the tube first?

I also have all the restored chassis back (TV, radio, audio amp, remote), along with the turntable, which I am told is working only in manual mode as of now, and needs a new stylus. (It's a long saga, the guy who was working on everything got a full-time job, also had some health problems, and scaled back time on this.)

Now waiting to make contact with the person who is supposed to help with the CRT install and re-assembly. It's just too heavy for me to be flipping over by myself.

Doug Harland, a great guy, came over today and spent 8 hours putting all the chassis back in place and connecting everything while I acted as gofer. I'm so glad he did, because this set seems to never have used identical screws for nearly identical functions. I would have spent a week just trying to figure out which screw held what to the cabinet.

First thing, though, was to replace the picture tube with the rebuilt from Scotty and a faceplate from a donor tube. I thought the original faceplate gasket would be Ok, but it had continued oozing gunk and had to be discarded. So, there was a detour to Home Depot to look for some gasket material. We bought several kinds. Here is the stuff that worked out best:

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5725/...1dc8258e_z.jpgCAM01072 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5820/...f81172c0_z.jpgCAM01073 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

You stick the gasket to the tube, then lay on the faceplate, and finally seal it against dust with clear packing tape.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/755/2...8134538b_z.jpgCAM01068 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/773/2...91266e9e_z.jpgCAM01077 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

In this set, the CRT mounts from the rear. It mounts to a plate behind the bezel, and the plate and CRT have to be removed and dropped in as a unit. The bezel itself is cast zinc.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/617/2...c8c4eb02_z.jpgCAM01082 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/637/2...b417d55f_z.jpgCAM01084 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5789/...8984204b_z.jpgCAM01090 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5740/...25cf602c_z.jpgCAM01093 by Wayne Bretl, on Flickr

Did I mention Doug is a great guy? He stayed 8 hours until everything was connected and could be fired up. Unfortunately, the result was not simple plug and play - some tube sockets appear intermittent; and Doug also suggested testing tubes with a better tube tester to weed out any with grid emission.

The audio amp and tuner do work, if the source switch does.

Currently needing debugging:
Audio selector push buttons switch in the stereo did not want to turn off when "off" was pushed. This is a problem because it also kills the TV sound.Finally got it to turn off after a dozen tries, but probably ready to fail any moment.
Remote control is balky - probably needs retuning, and looks like some old caps are present and may be a problem.
Cannot make cutoff - extinguishing the lines in setup mode leaves a medium bright raster even at minimum brightness setting.
No RF snow; can get audio noise intermittently by playing with tube seating.Tried Deoxit on IF tube sockets, which helped a bit, but still intermittent.
Phono works in manual mode, but won't complete automatic cycle (probably loose belt).
Convergence cloverleaf is broken in two places, currently held together with electrical tape and a tie-wrap. Need to find a replacement if possible.

So, will be investigating tubes and sockets and looking for what's wrong with cutoff.

To thank Doug, I gave him the old CRT (with the hope that the open filaments are a lead wire issue and not actually open) and an interesting Zenith portable (OOF! you call this portable?) from 1980 with continuous VHF and UHF tuners.

Question about moving a set like this:

Do you think regular home movers are suitable (worry about necking it!) or should special movers/shippers be used?