Oh, yeah, that makes sense: the degaussing coil comes on strong and then fades away. My bad. I was thinking along the lines of a CL-90 inrush current limiter and similar ones that give a soft start and then their resistance goes down to just a few ohms as they warm.

Ah-haaa.... guess it's a good thing I asked! :yes:

I'll check with Ralph's here in Beaumont and see if they have what I need. If not, i'll order the part online.

I had the same "betweener" symptom on one of my 11s. It may help to tweak the VHF oscillator adjusters. If your CTC-9 is like the CTC-11, you can do this with the TV in the cabinet.

Remove the channel selector knob. If you're lucky, you'll see a circular set of holes in the front of the tuner body. Using a strong flashlight, look inside and you'll see that for the current channel, the adjuster screw is exposed, deep inside. Turning the screw with a l-o-n-g skinny screwdriver should allow you to center the tuning for that channel. Changing to the next channel exposes that channel's adjuster.

Note: I don't know if it's true for this set, but for some TVs you're supposed to adjust the oscillators in a definite order, for example, starting at channel 13 and working down to 2. I adjusted all of my channels in 13-2 order.

Caution: if you unscrew the adjuster way, way too far, it may come out. On one of my sets, one of the adjuster screws was found hanging loose, halfway out of its hole.

The Sams manual should have a procedure for doing this, likely with an oscilloscope. I used a Sencore VA62A that can output a test signal to any channel, adjusting each oscillator "by ear and eye" for best reception on each channel. An agile modulator like the B-T AM60-550B can also output to all channels.

If you're not equipped to do the Full Monte procedure for all channels, it can't hurt to try tweaking the one or two that you use the most. However, if they're low channels and the procedure requires a high-to-low adjustment, perhaps that would be less successful than adjusting all of them, starting with highest.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Phil, not to be picayunish:no: but the circular set of holes applies to a wafer type tuner wherein all the adjuster screws are exposed, not just the one for the current channel.
By contrast, a turret tuner has just one adjustment hole so that changing to the next channel exposes only that channel's adjuster.
Ideally that should be done with a non-conductive screwdriver; back in the day there as a long skinny fiberglass tool for this purpose.
That was true of wafer tuners, not turret type.

The tuner in my CTC-11 is a (cheap) wafer type. I would LOVE to have one of those sturdy turret tuners, instead.

Phil Nelson

http://antiqueradio.org/art/RCACTC-11ACleanContact.jpg

I've still got one of those long skinny fiberglass screwdrivers, yellow handle, green shaft. The tip doesn't last long and has to be reground. It ought to have a metal or some kind of hardened tip.

Took a dump!
 

Dammit!! Turned on the set today and had extremely weak video and audio. The set has been playing perfectly.... and now this!

I am leaving early in the morning to fly to Singapore to join the ship. I am supposed to be packing and preparing to leave... I don't have time for this crap... however I can't turn my back on this. I am easily distracted... especially when it comes to TV's.

I pulled the back off. After pulling some tubes along the picture chain, I found the 1st IF to be bad... think it was gassy. I put it in the tester... couldn't see the heater light up, but felt heat from it. Never moved the needle on the tester. Also, found the video output tube to be very weak (these tubes were alll good a month ago) and replaced it.

Now, I have good audio, but video is dark with horz lines. I find if I slowly turn down the AGC, pic will fall into sync, but poorly and with no color. The point in which I get a picture on this adjustment is well below where the setting was previously. Also, if I slightly pull off the antenna lead, picture gets better.

At this point, I feel that the picture detector diode crapped out. Current sympton is the same as Fujifrontier had on his Philco... we changed that diode and fixed the problem. I think I've got the same problem now. I'm not happy.

I don't really have time to pull the chassis to comfirm. Like I mentioned, I'm supposed to be getting ready to leave before the sun rises. Looks like I will have to wait till I get home in early-September to check and change this diode.

Why do these things happen at the worst possible moments?

sounds like AGC, maybe the filter cap on the AGC opened up? .22

also sub in a 6EA8 noise inverter (that one you can do before you leave, its on the audio board)

as far as why now, well because it can :)

Take care on trip/work

AGC is what I meant... have too many things on my mind today. Had changed a 1N60 in an AGC circuit on another set to get it going and figured it was the same issue here. Funny thing is... I think it seems odd to have so many failures show up all at once. First IF, video output, and now something in the AGC. Kinda weird I think.

Yeah, I can go try a 6AE8... the back is still off.

Damn... that was it. Popped in another 6AE8 and now it's back on! So three tubes went south... all at once. Put the 6AE8 in the tester and found it had some serious grid leakage.