It's a big AUTOtransformer, therefore not isolated. Better add an isolation
transformer between the variac and your load.

Thanks. Will do.....kept thinking I was killing "two birds with one stone" with a variac. So far I don't work on many actual "chassis" sets at all (since I'm micro and solid state, mostly wall warts), but I do have a couple 9" sets and the older sets that do have AC plugs and real (such as they are) chassis.

Hi Chris, I do have one, I haven't been using it much lately because of the voltage drop it causes, probably not an issue with the little Sony being as it doesn't have 30 tubes, also I have the Variac now that will compensate.

Too late now, I really wasn't thinking the Sony was a hot chassis, should have guessed by the shock I got while touching the bench and the set but I guess I thought I was touching a terminal and not the chassis.

This set has a lot of Top Hat Diodes, do they usually fail open? It's not blowing any fuses or smoking so I don't think anything is shorted but the B+ seems to be dead.

Now that I have a "nice" (cough) new Meter I can do some more testing. (See the test equipment forum for more on my new meter :D)

Son of a...gun

Got my $20 worth out of my new meter tonight.

I finally figured out some basics on how the power supply works on this set and I didn't have any AC line voltage going in to it.

To make a long story short the Circuit Breaker is bad, it apparently blew out when I shorted the chassis and didn't reset, even though I pressed it a dozen times it never even made the slightest contact.

I would have figured this out sooner if the breaker wasn't such a PITA to access the lugs on without breaking anything else.
I finally got desperate and figured it HAD to be the breaker so I hooked a jumper across it and viola, it works again, this probably also explains the intermittent no start problem I was having as well.

Now I'm back to just having a white raster but at least I can continue recapping it, but enough for tonight, I can rest easier knowing I didn't ruin anything unobtanium.

I felt I was so close
 

that I had to keep going.

I replaced a couple more caps in the AGC circuit with no results and then I remembered, I have a factory service manual! I can check some voltages.

It didn't take long to realize the 140+ supply to the Video board was missing, like zero volts.

The supply is on the same board I had recapped a few weeks ago and came off of one leg of a 4.7 Cap that I had replaced, it was zero at that end too, and no wonder, when I replaced the cap there is a wire that is also soldered to one of the lugs, it's supposed to be on the + lug, I had attached it to the - side!

I quickly switched it around and...Picture!

Did a little adjusting and here's the result.

Vertical is stretched out but the adjustment is underneath so I'll wait until I have it put back together before I adjust it.
I still need to repair or replace the Circuit breaker, anyone have a 1.25 Sony breaker? :no: I may simply put a fuse across it.

When I get it finished I want to get a picture of it with Ted Baxter on screen, maybe a picture of Ted on WJM's 1210 playing on my 1210, that would be kind of cool.

looks pretty nice Eric. Glad you found the problems

I am so glad to see this TV working. I've been following this post since you originally posted it.

Very bright picture too!

Nice Job Eric! It's great to see another one of these Sony sets on the "living" list.:D

Nice picture and I'm happy it's going again.

Great Job! That CRT looks really balanced as well. I will keep my KV1210 as a reminder of how good a small screen color set can look. But maybe I should do the caps like you did....

I was thinking that too, my 1210 works nice but could poop any time with the old caps. My 1220 needs caps right now but works, with a slightly wonky vertical.

I'm really happy to get this working, I really didn't think I would be able to fix it.

If I had connected that wire correctly the first time this might have been done a week or two ago.

Good work! That CRT looks excellent as well.

You 'done good"! Congrats on sticking with it and for solving a WEIRD problem (failed breaker)...

As long as that B+ is dead-on, you should be OK. I have a 1210 parts set sitting around someplace, if you need anything cosmetic (other than the cabinet, which has the usual shrunken fake wood grain vinyl). I can't remember if you said that the back cover was turning white & powdery. Mine is (WAS) OK last I checked.

Charles

Hi Charles, now that you mention it I do need the SONY logo under the screen and the insert (Aluminum?) for the handle, or the whole handle, the rest is in pretty good condition, real wood veneer as far as I know.

The serial number in in the 200,000's I think, I know there were a lot of changes over the run of these sets like Vinyl vs Wood and so on.