This RCA Hi Lite difficult, didn't get it hot enough?
Was tapping in some wood shims and -Pop- safety glass
cracked as there is no adhesion in cataract but strong
adhesion in center. So be careful with shim pressure.

Strangely though, PVA just peels off smooth CRT face
once safety glass removed (Maybe vacuum really holding
it on convex surface)

The only upside for me is that I don't like the tint filter of
(RCA) safety glass and will like to see picture/colorimetry thru
modern clear soft safety plastic attach?

The green stuff is not PVA, it's some other stuff. I don't think anyone here actually knows what it is. The water method probably wont work for that one. You will have to use the hotwire method or just try to slice though it carefully. You will need a lot of paitience. Don't do it indoors or your wife will put you in the doghouse. LOL

you probley have allready thrown away the old pva material ,if you still have any you could run some control experiments on some samples ,i would like to see what different solvents or basic water base alcohol's have any effect on the pva or just see what its made up of ,you never no some everyday household products could desolve it. it cool to find something that wouldnt hurt only the pva .the best samples would be taken from the center.

Once the bonding agent is removed the safety glass becomes purely cosmetic. Remove only if absolutely necessary .

Still have plenty , PM if you want sample

Good point, and it splinters into nasty shards
Wonder if shadow mask would impede forward implosion projection?
(by slowing vacuum/expansion at screen)

How warm and how long did you leave the tube in the sun?? Going to be in the 90's here today and I'm using the clothspin method. Thanks

...

just tap them in until snug, then walk away for 30 min, check them and tap in until just snug. The idea is to apply a constant pressure, and let it slowly release, NOT to use them to force it off. If you look closely you will see what looks like finger shaped shadows begin to form, and extend from the edges toward the center, they will get fatter and begin to link up forming larger detached areas as the process continues. Also try to get the wedges placed so the pressure is at the inner part of the wedge not the outer edge of the lens, this will prevent excess pressure that will act like a lever to break the lens.

The green Zenith stuff seems to be affected most by Goof off in my experience.....

Agree but I must add that it may be noticed that one side may be lifting up more than the other, which is fine. As long as the lens is not pinchng itself at the opposite end to form any undue stress. Keyword..."uniform pressure".