been no progress due to hand surgery, but I did manage a little bit of work just before.

1st pic if two of the completed can caps.
2nd pic is just some of the cleaned up PCB's so I can see what I am doing
3rd pic has the bone saw used to cut off the cans right at the shoulder and the pin vise used to drill the holes from the bottom side up. Drilling from the bottom lets me get the idea spot for the hole. One hole right by the pos terminal and then the other hole right by the soldered twist lug. Doing caps like this lets me use the cheaper radial lead caps and leaves the lead dress undisturbed. You just need to clean well so the solder will flow.

I'm diggin those 82@450 lytics... they are pretty skinny compared to the ones i usually get... so it looks like they fit nicely in the cans. Where did you get them?

thoughs are pretty cool looking ,make good fit in a restuffed can.

Those are the new ones that Mouser has, yes the fit very well, are 105c IIRC they are 12mm wide, you can get a 4 cap can done no problem.

The main thing is how fast you can do a can , those 2 can caps take 10min tops from start to finish, figure about 5min tops per cap. Its much faster than my old way of removing the old cap, and prob as fast as doing under the chassis installation if you take into account good wiring practices (like term strips, no flying lead stuff). I would say its faster than if you had the correct twist lock can since you do not have to unsolder anything.

did the remaining two filter cans, very easy method again. going to lay off it for a while now, then will get on the paper caps. There are quite a few that are point to point (the chorma section is NOT on a pcb) On those I am prob just going to go pig tail method. The tube sockets are not the best quality and I don't want to goof them up trying to unsolder. The others on the bottom have some coils involved so again pig tail. I know some purest think this is sloppy work, but I think its less invasive, and since I have no way of determining the operating status, I dont want to create a problem.

I do this, for this reason, all the time. Just have the pigtiled lead follow the same pattern of lead dress as the old part had. That is, keeping the splice a straight path and not creating a bent pattern.

TV repairmen of the day would do this, they didn't want to spend extra time on a job, and also didn't want to risk breaking something.

ok all the wax caps under the chassis are now done, just a few on the pcb that mounts on the back and then on to the rest of the PCB. I replaced the 2 .47's in the flyback cage, dusted it gently, it "looks" ok for whatever that is worth.

By doing all the Point to Point stuff 1st it the hard part, the PCB caps are a cinch.

I do as you said, keep the part in the same location and keep the lead dress as original as possible. Had no breakage of parts in the recapping.

At this rate I would hope I can get the balance of it done before next weekend.

I typically do the pigtail method as well. If I had a CT100 or a 16CK1, I would take the extra time to completely desolder the original part. I don't feel like I do a very good job desoldering... especially when many parts are soldered to one point... so the pigtail just seems more practical for me on common sets. On occasion, I will unsolder the original part if there's plenty of room to work and little chance of me screwing something up.

progress

I typically always pig tail to coils, and will take the time to remove if its to a term strip as long as it does not have a bunch of other stuff on it. I also generally always pig tail to mini tube sockets. I large tube socket has an easy to get at term with out a bunch of stuff I will generally try to not pig tail, but if its at all hard to get at I will pig tail. I comes down to ease and fragile.

To keep is simple I just ordered a bunch of 1.6kv and 1kv for .047 and .01's. there were a lot of them, and the larger HV caps fit better to the orig part locations.

I found this somewhat helpful. I got the orig doc from ETF, the cut and pasted into excel. the cap numbers are cross ref to the schematic. I print it out and used a marker to clearly ID the caps on the board layout. Just a double check to make sure I don't goof anything.

two more caps to go on the audio board, then the video board. Sure looks a lot nicer with those shiny new caps :yes:

I am going to need to find some new coax, one of the lead is rotten out to a pot.

all done. the two paper caps on the video pcb were a PITA to get at, the solder pads were under the delay line, but I got them done. So all recapped now. I left the few orange and brown drops alone for now.

Next up I will sweep the resistors looking for any way out of whack, then will test all the tubes for shorts and emissions. After that I think I will be good to go for a power up. Will check the B+ rail for shorts 1st if thats ok I will do a full power start, no need to variac it since I have all new filter caps and 5U4 rectifiers anyway.

oh forgot the dumb coax, will have to get that worked out 1st before I do the power up.

all pcb done

fixed the volume control coax lead. So its all good to go. Now I just have to pull the chassis out of the donor set (leave the CRT in it for now) and slide this one in for a test run. Prob be in the next couple of days. (oh after checking the tubes duh...)

Sounds good. We'll be 'a watching...

the few caps I did not change were the domino types, there was at least one large value 1000pf on the horz board. I figured I would leave them be until I test it and see if there is an issue. This thing sure has a LOT of paper caps.

A quick pass did not turn up any faulty resistors. I did have an open fuse the .75amp on the top. I did not have the correct fuse type, so I rigged up a in line fuse holder that uses the blown fuse as a plug, and lets me use the more common stye. Just a temp fix until I get the correct fuse type. There is a B+ fuse, a HOT cathode fuse, and I am not sure what this one is for its a bit confusing on the schematic, seems like its tied into the yoke/vert out/damper circuit.

so whats the deal with the yoke plastic?, I seem to recall this being a problem and there being some easy fixes using common plastic parts. Mine is turning into a white mess.

one shorted 6EA8 AGC and sync amp, Schematic shows a 6U8 a quick check shows that as a sub
weak 6LF8 1st video and noise inverter, schematic shows a 6AW8 a quick check shows that as a sub
getting tired still need to check the chroma and video amp, the rest look ok.

Yeah that yoke plastic sucks, doesn't it?! I've got a few sets that have that issue... or simply a lack of plastic to hold it all together in there. I notice that Motorolas of that time period seem to always have this issue (as well as Motorola knobs).

Bob has section covering this on his site at http://antiquetvguy.com/Web%20Pages/...okeCovers.html

all tubes checked on the chassis, did not check the tuner tubes, and did not replace any paper caps on the tuner (I think there is one). So hopefully I will be able to do that tomorrow, then maybe Sat I can give it a try :yes:

I replaced the one 6EA8 with the slight short and a 6LF8 that was shorted a bit harder.

got raster, then pic and audio, but the pic looks like its got an agc issue or a sync sep issue, (vert and horz sync are soft). HV is right around 20kv but that is thru a 100ft cord AND a isolation trans that can barely handle 3amps, so I am hoping at full line voltage it will be up a bit. I did not see if the HV adj did anything. the tuner has a paper cap so maybe that is an issue, I presume its an AGC filter cap. I will start by replacing that. I did not fiddle with the AGC pot so of course that could be it as well. If neither of those work out I will try a composite video feed. I need to back and review the AGC setup.

Its coming along...

hmmm I seem to recall cleaning the pots up front, so I bet I just need to reset the noise/agc, but too tired to fool with it any more, so back on it tomorrow.

AGC pot has no effect what so ever. So I think I will start with a simple AGC bias and see if that clears it up. If so I will dig into the AGC circuit. I just hope its not a feed back pulse from the fly back that is missing.

Even though the bias did not seem to work I still think its got to be in the AGC circuit, just cause the agc pot did nothing. But will get the scope out and look around. will start at the plate of the AGC tube looking for the keying pulse. Will also look to see what the signal to the sync sep looks like going in and coming out. I suppose the smart thing would be to try new tubes there 1st.

CTC% Resto _ Skinny Brown Electros?
 

Hi Dave:

Where did you get the skinny electrolytic caps you used to replace the former FP cans? I've never seen high volt electrolytic caps like that before. :scratch2:

Its a new cap that mouser carries. They work great for inside can stuff.

I have been thinking about it, I am betting its something to do with the noise inverter. The agc does something just not much, and if the H sync is off, the AGC is of course not going to work right since the keying pulse will not match up with the sync tips.

put a new 6U8 in place of the 6EA8 that was there, (sync sep) fixed the sync and now the AGC works as it should. Only thing left is to setup the purity (screen colors are all over the place with HUGE convergence issues), but its coming along.

I did not even touch the convergence magnets so that should help some, but I still need to fix the yoke plastic AND move the CRT to the new cabinet.

oh so there are no PM for static, instead there is DC pots, thats something new to me. I can see how this should be easy to setup with evey thing out front.

Good luck on the pots - all three were burned open on mine, and 2 of 3 someone gave me from a donor chassis were also. These are special 100 ohms tapped at 25/75, esentially unobtainium. It was a poor design since this is at the low end of what carbon comp pots can do resistance wise.

The problem is that the tap is used to set up a zero-current point so you can go plus or minus. The only way I could get it to work with an untapped pot was to use two pots with a toggle switch to select if you wanted zero to plus or zero to minus. It seems like it would be easier to use the convergence coils from a later set with the permanent magnets, but I think they are wired differently for dynamic convergence too, so won't just drop in.

contrast was a bit low, I had a new video out tube already, so a new 1st video amp and now the contrast is very good, can go from little to too much now.

I was trying to set up the purity so tried sliding the yoke back, and killing the green and red grids with 100k resistor to ground, when I powered it up, no HV. Popped a 3/4 fuse. My guess is I must have shorted out the yoke somehow. I monkeyed around with it some more and tried a new fuse, and got it back. I adj the purity and slid the yoke forward, got a nice full red screen. I am not sure what happened on the yoke but I will not mess with it again until after I have moved the CRT and fixed the plastic. I have a spare yoke so will experiment with it on making up the plastic piece. that way I can keep working on the set while getting the spare yoke ready to go. The center convergence is pretty good now, but the dynamic is still way off.

I have not yet tried adjusting the eff coil for lowest current. IIRC the service manual has you checking the voltage drop across the cathode fuse. I think I will just use my fuse adapter and plug that in with the current meter in place of the fuse to dip the cathode current.

I have a donor chassis as well, so hopefully I can get it right. but since the center is looking good I may be ok.

Convergence is a real pain in the ass on those sets. Be prepared to spend an entire evening doing it. it will never be perfect. Just get it as good as you can and leave it. Those DC pots will need to work to get the convergence right or your efforts will be futile. Don't turn the coils all the way in otherwise you may never get them to come back out without removing the chassis. Been there, done that.

Don't mean to be a party pooper, but the dynamic convergence circuits in this chassis are AC coupled - so when you move the edges up, you move the center down, etc. Some point about halfway to the edge stands more or less still. It's an interative PITA to get both static and dynamic. Start by doing dynamic to get lines to be parallel, then do static, and repeat.

Doing convergence on the production line for those sets must have been a nightmare. One thing manufacturers hate is having to fiddle with product, they prefer it if they can just stuff circuit boards and have it work with no adjustments. SAW filters in TV IF strips was very nice, no alignment needed.

here is a pic where I am now

Looks decent. Much better than mine but mine needs a full alignment and is a Super.