My cousin worked at the weller plant in Palmer township where they assembled these years ago, he still has a stash of them and spare parts.

Oh yeah. It's very possible.

Who knows? Maybe they were swapped by accident in the back of a TV Repair Shop eons ago.:smoke:

Here's a shot of another mahogany 630TS and you can see it's lid is QC rather than face cut and the color matches the cabinet.
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5216/5...70fbffd6_z.jpg

Since the lid for this set is already splotchy looking and the color is off I'm even more inclined to refinish it while leaving the rest of the cabinet original. Or perhaps someone out there has a spare mahogany 630TS lid or wants to trade :scratch2:

Bob,

I hate you! Just kidding, that sure looks terrific. Thanks for sharing your TV with us.

The projection lens gimmick from the above ad is very similar to the "100 inch tv" ads that circulated at the end of the crt television era. You received a bare unhoused lens along with instructions to attach this "kit". You basically found a cardboard box that covered the entire face of your television, mounted the open top of the box to cover the screen, while maintaining a proper depth to the box so your crummy plastic lens would focus properly once mounted to the other end of the box. You then took the whole hideous mess to the far end of the room, turned it upside down, and you had a crude projector, making a blurry dim image on the opposite wall of the room. I imagine left and right would still be reversed.

I imagine the 630 lens would be much the same, though you would have to swap some yoke wires to deal with the lens inversion. You really don't want to try playing a 630 upside down.

Hey, you can make your own with the instructions here!

http://www.bigscreentv.20m.com/photo.html

edit: never mind, I just read the WHOLE ad, and see that you are converting a 630 to run on a 5tp4, rf hv supply, etc.

Given the RF high voltage supply they were offering and the NY location, I wonder if that firm eventually became these guys:

http://www.spellmanhv.com/

I had two of these 630's in the past and sold them. They play so well and have such a solid quality about them. I have the chance to get another one that is working and in beautiful original condition. I may go for it. It's just such a large heavy set to try to display!

Hi All;
I was just looking thru this posting and I noticed that 1. Bob's set has the same 4 metal tubes, in the same place's.. And 2. that the Large Dog Bone mostly Green resistor is also there.. Along with other smaller caps and such.. There seems to be a few small differences, due to mostly I think to repairs..
THANK YOU Marty

I started taking a closer look at the chassis to check for bad components. First up the bleeder resistors. I've read these are often bad so wasn't surprised that both sections of the big one on top are open. The candohm below it measures OK though.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8506/8...84f667c5_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8076/8...519b7a69_z.jpg

Next, I took a look inside the HV cage. The plate cap is gone from the 6BG6 and that HV cap is not mounted very well. I'm guessing it's a replacement.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8330/8...dbe97756_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8...13996181_z.jpg

Hi All;
Bob, If I am looking at the correct thing in your last picture.. The High Voltage cap in your set is in the same place as the one in my set.. Only the one in my set is about twice as thick, but it is mounted in the same place.. Both clips are the same also the springy open type..
THANK YOU Marty

I'm thinking of using an adjustable 1500 ohm 25W resistor to replace the dead 1360 17W section like this one: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...dwmdWfHxMQQ%3d

Yes, I used an adustable resistor to replace that one in my 630TS. It's the most practical way to get that oddball value.

Phil Nelson

Thanks for the confirmation.

I knew I read about that somewhere ;)
I just checked another 630TS chassis and all sections of both resistors are open :sigh: I may up spending more on power resistors than electrolytics!

Hi All;
In my set the the 1360 is fine, the 6750 is fine, the 12 is open or missing, the 93 is bad as well, the 230 is good, I haven't checked the 56 nor the ion trap coil.. But, I am thinking to go get the variable resistor just in case I need it.. Bob, Thanks for the Mouser link.. When I got my Electrolytics I also got the two resistors..
THANK YOU Marty

I'm not sure what you mean by the 56 ? There's a big 6300 inside the HV cage with a couple taps that's worth checking. Mine is good :)

Hi All;
Bob, yes, that's not in that part of the group with the two large resistors.. But it is part of the long divider chain.. The 56 (R232) is in parallel with the Ion Trap Magnet (coil) L202 and L203, which then goes thru the Focusing Resistors and coil, non of which I have checked for now (R182, R183, R184 and L195).. which ends up at --100 Volts, which also is the Center Tap of the Transformer.. The end of R186A (--18 Volts and R185A 230 ohms leads to R232... At least in my version of the schematic.. If there is no Ion Trap Coil and resistor, then I suppose it would be just a resistor.. I have heard that some sets had no Ion trap Electro-magnet, but a perment Magnet.. I realize that there are different versions of the 630 Schematic.. I also have not Checked the other Large Resistor in the High Voltage cage, I will do that when checking out under the 1B3 and see its condition..
THANK YOU marty

OK, got it. That's just a 1 watt resistor so I didn't check it yet.

Well, two 680 ohm 10 watt resistors in series also would do it, and they are just $.79 for the pair at Just Radios. (no affiliation)

Jas

Sure, but I'd need to find a way to mount them. I can reuse the original mounting screw with the Ohmite.

This past weekend I finished checking and replacing the bad caps and resistors on my 630TS. I used two 680 ohm resistors for the 1360 as well. Be sure to check the 1 Meg ohm resistor under the HV rectifier, mine read over 8 Meg! I guess my set had lots of hours on it as more than half of the resistors were outside their tolerance and most of the paper caps were way off value and had high leakage. I tried reforming all of the electrolytics and found three of the cans completely open with the other three reading on the low side after reforming. I am going to try those three that did reform to see how well they work. In the long run I plan to replace them before I finish the restoration. I have to wait for a tube order before I can go beyond the DC supply power up check.

Dave

Good luck with your set. I continued on with some testing tonight. The ion trap and focus electromagnet appear to be good. Next, I'll check out the yoke and power transformer.

I also did a little test cleaning. That greenish/grey coating does clean off the caps and chassis fairly easily, but not not looking forward to doing it :drool:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8372/8...4a4cda13_z.jpg

It turns out modern 25W Ohmite resistors are 2" long and will fit nicely using the old hardware :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8078/8...10453c95_z.jpg

While rummaging around for power resistors, I came across this one in a box that came with the set. It's identical to the existing HOT resistor except it's bad. Perhaps it's the original and was replaced long ago :scratch2:
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8...fd41cfce_z.jpg

A silly question I'm sure, but how did you ascertain that these components are good?

Not silly at all. I compared their resistance to the value indicated in the schematic. I can check the yoke and flyback with my EICO 944. As for the power transformer, I figure I'll pull the 5U4s and fire up the set.

I finally found some time to test the power transformer. It's good :thmbsp:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8074/8...a91003f0_z.jpg http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8095/8...20849617_z.jpg

Great Score Bob! Congratulations!

Thanks. My new resistors arrived this afternoon and I just finished installing them. I put some heatshrink over the unused lugs.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8323/8...2d9e8a83_c.jpg

Now onto some cleaning. I'm using a light application of Naval Jelly wiped down with a damp paper towel after a few minutes. Then a little spray of contact cleaner to flush out any remaining crud. I noticed Winky Dink came up with a similar technique recently :)

You can see how this chassis might have looked when new in the section that was protected.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8...d1ebc55c_c.jpg


http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8052/8...6df76587_c.jpg

Making progress.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8355/8...c9cd7eb3_c.jpg

The focus magnet and yoke supports cleaned up very nicely too.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8046/8...68bed66c_c.jpg

I found this label on one of the tubes. That address is close to where I found the set.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8497/8...fdc70455_c.jpg

Good thing I popped off the HV cage. One of the missing focus coil screws was hiding in there!
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8498/8...1c3ea93e_c.jpg

While you have access to the 1B3 socket, check the 1 Meg resistor. Mine measured over 8 Meg.

Dave

Thanks for the tip. Mine measures just a hair over 1Meg - the 3.3 ohm resistor is good too :)

I think so. The website indicates the company was formed in 1947, about when
the ads for these projection set adaptors first appeared.

Cliff

Cleaning inside the HV cage.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8357/8...64932ce9_c.jpg

That's better :)
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8329/8...1e2d5959_c.jpg

VERY nice and clean! That might inspire me to try some good cleaning on my sets. My CT-100 has a rather grungy-looking chassis and deserves to look better, for one.

Avoid abrasives. You can get a lot done with isopropyl alcohol, Naval Jelly, and non-scratch plastic cleaning pads.

Phil Nelson

I dug up some wing nuts and thumb screws and remounted the focus coil/yoke properly.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8497/8...16bd82b4_c.jpg

I'm a little surprised at how poorly the HV cage cover fits. Seems there should have been more clearance between the FC and yoke supports. It's rubbing against both.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8235/8...860dec8a_c.jpg

Bob, is that cage "blued steel", some kind of plating or is it just paint? If it is blued, you may try some gun blue from a sporting good store or gun shop. I have found some transformer bells that were blued but somewhat rusty. They responded very well to cleaning and bluing. What comes to mind is a lot of Allied Radio Knight-Kit transformers.

I'm pretty sure it's just paint. I didn't really put much effort into cleaning it yet and I expect it could be made more respectable. The same can't be said of the cover over the bleeder resistors on the left. That paint has blistered from the heat and some rust has set in.

You were right! It is some sort of bluing. I cleaned it with some Naptha then buffed with Meguires Swirl X. I don't doubt that gun blue would work even better.

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8380/8...704eae1a_z.jpg

Any of you 630TS restorers have tips on removing these two electrolytic cans ? The bracket looks like a PITA to get out since at least one nut is blocked by a can.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8528/8...076a9cc2_z.jpg

Can't you just break off the twist lugs to take the cans out? (Not a restorer but used to do this all the time.)

Hi All;
Bob, take out the little can first, take off all the wires and then straighten out the Twist tabs.. Then do the same to the longer one.. Then take the two screws off of the side of the Bracket, that should give you just enough movering room to Back out the longer cap.. If not, You might have to loosten the Screws and nuts a little on the transformer, to get the last quarter inch of room.. Them moving the Bracket out away from the back of the set, you should be able to slide out the cap.. Make sure before taking either cap out the you can wiggle them out some, and that the twist tabs are not still holding the cap in place..
THANK YOU marty

Sure, I could break off the tabs except that I plan on restuffing and remounting the cans.

Thanks Marty. I wasn't sure there would be enough clearance to get out the larger cap. These must be a real pain to service if the horizontal centering pot needs to be replaced!