Hi All;
Good News, I measured the Ion Trap Coil with the 56 ohm resistor accross it and got 22.9 ohms, just like Bob did.. The Focus coil measures about 240 ohms.. And After connecting that part of the circuit up.. I GOT on pin 8 of the Rectifier 330 Volts with the Variac set at 60 Volts, I didn't dare take it up any further..
Now to connect the 275 Volt voltage divider circuit and see what happens..
THANK YOU Marty

Say hey!:banana::banana: Good goin' amigo. :music::tresbon:

Hi All;
More good news, I hooked up the 275 Volt lead, and at pin 8 of the rectifier, I get 302 Volts, with the Variac set at 115 volts and the Bulb lit anyway.. With one rectifier tube.. Special Thanks to Old Coot.. Now for another wire the one going to C223A..
THANK YOU Marty

Geister,
It might help to simplify what's going on in that circuit. It uses what's called a 'back bias' scheme to generate negative voiltages for various other circuits in the chassis. It's used extensively in '30s radios with power trannys and in a lot of early TVs.

First visualize the CT of the HV winding going directly to ground, and the rectifier tube putting out full B+. Now visualize a resistor from the CT to ground. As the rest of the tubes pull current, a voltage is developed across that resistor, and it's negative with respect to ground. The resistor can then be tapped (or a daisy chain of resistors used) to obtain specific negative voltges.

Hi All;
I got all the wires hooked up.. And it didn't drag anything down, which is the good news.. With one Rectifier tube and the 40 watt light bulb in series after the Variac.. Here is what my readings show, the bulb is dimly light..
105 volts on the Variac
Rectifier pin 8 307 volts, shows on schematic +300 volts
275+ divider tap 238 volts
135+ divider tap 185 volts
-100 on cap -13 volts
-18 on divider tap -5 volts
-2 0n divider tap -.5 volt

THANK YOU Marty

Lookin' good. At this point you could get rid of the Bulb, and start putting all the tubes back in except the horz output, watching the B+ reading as you add tubes.
As more and more tubes pull current and load the power supply, the B+ should come down and the negative supply rail should come up (though it probably won't show the full -100V yet).

Finally if all's well at full line voltage, add the H output tube, being ready to shut the set off quickly if needed. Hold an insulated screwdriver next to the 1B3's plate connector and see if you can draw an arc. It should draw a healthy 'air arc' of a quarter inch or more, proving the H output and fly are running. If no arc, shut 'er down.

Hi All;
Will DO, I will let you know what the result is.. THANK YOU to OLD COOT again.. :banana: :banana:

THANK YOU Marty

Marty,
Kind of cool to see you getting the 630 up and running
I look forward to seeing a picture on the set. I will try and drop
the cabinet off sometime in the near future.
Mike

Hi All;
Thank You Mike.. :banana:
As I write this I am going to Bring the set up with its tubes, except for the Horizontal Output Tube and the Picture Tube..
At 110 volts on the variac, I get the following
+275 on the divider I get 275 Volts
+135 on the divider I get +133 Volts
-18 on the divider I get -19
-2 on the divider I get -2.1
IT WORKS !!!!!
Next the horizontal tube..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
The same as last time, I am going to bring it up with the Variac..
With all tubes except for the Picture Tube.. I have my Ponoma Meter attached to the Anode wire..
Here goes -- at 100 volts on the Variac I get 8K volts..
at 115 volts on the variac I get 9K volts..
Next is the 5" Picture tube..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I have a 4" purple round spot.. And on one channel I get NPR News, so sound works.. I haven't connected my B&K, as I have to put the 5" tube back in it to make my 1077B workable.. And then use a regular 10BP4 Picture Tube..
And this is before I replace any regular caps..
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
THANK YOU Marty

Speakin' of replacing caps, the very first ones that should be replaced are the coupling caps going to the control grid (G1) of the H output tube, Vert.output tube, and audio output tube (in that order). Any leakage in a coupling cap will push the grid more positive, making the tube overconduct.. which is bad news in a power tube.

Once the power tubes are happy, then go ahead with the rest of the caps, powering the set up after each replacement to watch improvements. I would resume with the coupling cap going to G1 of the video output tube.

Hi All;
I put in the 10BP4 and at 90 volts on the variac, I smelled something and the Horizontal tube started to turn purple, and my Roomate saw some sparks looking from on top, down underneath the High Voltage Section.. So I pulled the Plug on it.. I will take out the 10BP4 later, and look underneath it next time I get a chance, take a look see..
THANK YOU Marty

Not sure which "underneath" you mean, but my 630TS had arcing under the little platform that holds the 1B3GT rectifier tube:

http://antiqueradio.org/art/RCA630TS30.jpg

It's worth cleaning that entire area with isopropyl alcohol, whether or not that's the immediate source of arcing.

This article has other restoration notes that may be helpful in a general way:

http://antiqueradio.org/RCA630TSTelevision.htm

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
http://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Hi All;
Yes, Phil, that will be on my list of things to check next.. I was kind of hoping thst it might somewhat work before checking that area.. And it did work on the 5" Picture Tube.. So I am Very Happy, with it.. I may have some work tomorrow, so it might be a day or two before I get back to it.. By underneath I mean the bottom side of the chassis, where all of the Resistors and capacitors are hiding (lurking), so approximately underneath the 5V4 area..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I have the day to work on the set, work has been postponed to next week depending on the weather.. I took a look at the underside of the 1B3 and other than plenty of dust, it seems OK, I measured both resistors the 3.3 measures 3.6 and the 1 Meg measures .936 Meg.. Cleaned with brush first and then with a q-tip and 99% Alcohol.. Alot better now..
I made another Critical Mistake, while cleaning the Fly-back of dust and dirt, I broke the small wire that eventually goes to the Top of the 1B3.. :tears:
I can't find the Asprin Trick posting for taking off the insulation.. Does anyone know where the link to it is ?? I hope to slightly lengthen it using wire-wrap wire (30 ga).. THANK YOU !!
My roomate thought the sparks that he saw were coming off the back (inside of the chassis) of the 110 volt power plug.. Could it be the two caps tied there, or maybe just too much dirt and old dust ??
Also, don't know if its related but the 6BG6 had a purple glow to it, maybe it is gassy, or just bad, any ideas ??
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I am going to the store and get some Hight Voltage Corona Dope, as my old bottle of it is all dried up.. The top of the fly-back has some (along with the wire) burnt places, from arching, even inside of the Spegetti tubing around the wire.. So I will be gone for a bit.. What kind of wire is coming out of the fly-back ??
THANK YOU Marty

Marty,
The aspirin trick is here, beginning with post #26 ..
http://videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=257295&page=2
If you're dealing with a tiny stub of wire sticking out of the flyback tire, it'd take a bit of improvisation to get the stub immersed in the hot acid. Or maybe you could swab it on with a toothpick while still hot.

The arcing and simultaneous blue flashing in the 6BG6 are probably related. The overload imposed by the arcing could have caused the blue flashing, and the tube may still be OK. No guarantees though.

Hi All;
I'm back, got the dope.. I am going to first try with just the Iron on the end of the stub, for now there is about an inch of wire coming out of the fly-back, the lower half of that inch is burnt black and the end might be semi clean just dirty..
Old Coot, I am wondering If you could tell me what would be the causes of the 6BG6 going purple, and the arching, Once I know what type of things to look for I hopefully can better asses what or where the problem might be.. Such as too much current draw, but WHY is it drawing too much current ?? and etc.. Also, I may as well test the fly-back resistance readings.. Will, let you know on the next posting what I find.. I hope that It isn't a semi-bad fly-back..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I got the wire to take some solder, after using the asprin trick, (sure does smell, and lots of smoke) I lengthened it with some 30 ga wire-wrap wire.. I am also glad I got some dope, it will need a good coating of it.. I measured the Fly-back, and it measres fine.. Doesn't guarantee its good, but hopefully its ok..
I'LL try it on with the chassis upside down, using the 5" tube, to see IF I can see what is possibly arching underneath.. I just noticed that this set has a Horizontal Drive Control pot, maybe its set too high.. I'll give it a try as soon as I locate it on the back of the set..
THANK YOU Marty

If you bring it up slowly on the variac, you should be able to spot the arc when it first starts. Be sure and watch the 6BG6 all the while for any misbehavior.

It might be less cumbersome to omit the picture tube while arc hunting.

Any chance you could post pictures?

Hi All;
Old Coot, I would be glad to post pictures, but the limitations of the file size has made it so I can't fit the picture file size in.. I have not in the past been able to reduce the size and still have any picture..
I thought I had to have the picture tube in for the problem to occur, but based on your answer, I will try it with out, as it would be much easier to do..
THANK YOU Marty

As long as the yoke remains in-circuit, the sweep circuits don't need the CRT connected. (This would not be the case with a series-string set where the CRT heater is part of the string.)

Hi All;
Old Coot, Thanks for hanging in there with me.. I have powered up the set, and slowly brought it up to 110 Volts on the Variac.. No Arching and no turning purple on the 6BG6.. I did measure the voltage on the Anode wire and my tongue went out 6" when the horizontal drive control was in one position and at the opposite end it went out 9".. Or would you believe on the meter it was 6KV and 9KV..
I am not completely sure why, but my best guess, is while fixing both the wire and the top of the fly-back, I may have eliminated a source of either arching or excessive current draw.. I used two coats of dope syrup.. The chassis is on its side at present, and I will put it back to normal Position after this posting message and put in the 5" Picture Tube and see if things are still the same..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I Got Picture with the 5" Picture Tube, I need to get something with a picture, before I can for sure tell what I have on the screen.. I can tell there is at leat something going on.. I think I am seeing at some raster and some trace back (I can't think of the correct name).. But there is no Arching and no purple horizontal tube.. I will try the 10BP4 and find out IF that is or may be the problem or the cause of the problem.. I am listening to the news while I am typing this from the TV..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
It looks like the 10BP4 that came with this set is no good.. I will need to check further, but after about 5 minutes of being on, the Picture Tube is still cold, and everything else nice and toasty.. But the good news is that there is no Arching and no purple horizontal tube.. :banana:
I will need to dig out the 8T243 and borrow its 10BP4 Picture Tube..
THANK YOU marty

Marty,
Check the pins on the crt I tested it before I dropped the chassis off to you and the crt showed good emission. I hope it didn't lose vacuum, maybe the pins on the crt have intermittent connection. I enjoy following your progress on the tv.
Mike

When you say the pic tube is still cold, does that mean the heater is not lit?:saywhat:The CRT neck does not run hot at all compared to the power tubes, damper and 5U4 which opererate under heavy current and run very hot.

If you're not getting a raster, have you adjusted the ion trap to find the elusive 'sweet spot' that makes the raster appear? If not, Rotate the trap around a full 360 degrees, slide it forward and back, and if nothing appears, swap it end for end and repeat.
Even if the CRT has weak emission you should stiil get a visible raster since the little tube made a raster.

Hi All;
I got the 10BP4 from the other set and I now have Raster and some retrace lines.. So I just thought I will try my VHS Tape player and see IF I can get anything from it..
THANK YOU Marty

***OOPs! Double post. Dumb, dumb.

Hi All;
On the old CRT it is cold, meaning that as fas as I can tell there is no filament.. And on the One good 10BP4 CRT that I have I have raster and I already knew about the Ion Trap adjustment, which also means that my Ion Trap coil is good.. I have tried the VHS Tape player and I have sound, and no picture as of yet, But tomorrow or way later tonight I will try adjusting things to see what I can get..
THANK YOU Marty

Try flowing solder into the heater pins (pins 1 and 12, either side of the key slot). But clean the solder off the outside of the pins real good so it doesn't bind going into the socket.

Hi All;
Old Coot, Thanks for the advice, I have a Video by "Admiral" Bob about resurrecting old CRT's, that I will use as a guide..
I also, tomorrow will need to get out my B&K 415 and also my B&K 1077b.. And put the 5" Picture Tube back in the 1077b and get it working again, So I can use it to see what sections work and what does not..
Thank You for your Help.. I don't know how many of the others appreciate your Advice and Help, but I do !!!!
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I got my B&K 1077b back together and I hooked it up to my small Color TV, just to make sure that it is working, before I try it on the 630.. Now to find a good B&K 415 and test it.. I have been busy most of the Day doing other things.. Now back to TV things..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I got the B&K 1077b hooked up to the 630, found where on the tuner it is by the sound, listening for the tone from the B&K.. No Picture, I will look at the manual, for the 1077b and start from the picture tube (grid) going back until I find the next problem.. tomorrow..
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I have a room full of smoke.. Two resistors burned up.. Need to find out IF I have something wired wrong, either to the Electrolytic or the internals of the cap.. Or the External wires to the Cap or drawing too much current or wrong size (wattage) of the resistors.. The Cap is C223, the two resistors are R140 (3300) and R141 (6800).. Which is right in the area of where I have my Suspect bad socket and trouble.. 1ST Video Amp.. (6AU6)
THANK YOU Marty

Well tarnation. A sudden-onset direct short from pin 5 (plate) to ground would definitely fry those two resistors. The short could be either in the tube or the socket (possibly a char track inside the socket). You mentioned using alcohol for cleaning. Drug store alcohol (either isopropyl or "rubbing" type) contains signifigant water which if not completely dry, could cause an arc and burn a char path very quickly.

It's very unlikely C223(b) is involved. If it had shorted, only R141 would have fried, leaving R140 unaffected. That tells you the short has to be 'downstream' of R140.

With the tube pulled, and with R140 disconnected, put your ohmeter (on highest ohms scale) on pin 5. It should show infinite resistance (open circuit) to ground. Any measurable leakage would be a fault condition.

WOOPs! Error (sound of klaxon)..
The 6AU6 plate connection "Pin 3" in the foregoing post should be pin 5
Sorry for the goof.
:o

Hi All;
I used 99% alcohol, but I think it might have been the other stuff I tried to used that might have done the trick (possible short).. Old Coot, No problem for the mistakes, I make plenty of my own.. Yes, I will ohm it, as well as check all the other surrounding components.. Thank You, Old Coot for the circuit analysis, I sure wish I had your ability.. Anything else that sticks out that I should look at ??
THANK YOU Marty

Hi All;
I measured Pin 5 to ground its OK.. But, the look of pins 7, 4, 2, and 1 don't look so good, I can't at this point tell IF it is from what I did, or just old gunk on the bottom of the sockets after spraying the tube and socket..
THANK YOU Marty