![]() |
Quote:
After you place your components, you simply connect the "dots" with virtual wiring and flip a virtual toggle switch on and virtually see what your design will do with virtual meters for R, I, E, and even a P meter! Oh, and a scope to boot! Anyway, well worth it if you are into circuit design and presentation. Maybe my teachers and professors were too picky.......:scratch2: |
Quote:
Here's what the schematic looks like (I didn't bother cleaning it up, I just needed it electrically correct and component-correct so that I could lash the whole thing up as a PCB.) http://www.funkengine.net/vk-img/201...v0.2-schem.png There's no spoiler tag option installed here at VK so I have to transmit this in the clear I guess... Hint: Look at the component numbers, and then go look at the CB-1-60 schematic... Here's a teaser that has no airwires pictured and also has the traces on the correct side of the copper for through-hole components. I still need to pop things apart and take some mounting and clearance measurements before I decide the final shape/size of the board and where to place the mounting holes on it. I'm also holding off on designating the isolation slots to be milled out until I revise the layout more based on measurements, but be assured I am taking the fact that there's ~500VDC on this board into account. http://www.funkengine.net/vk-img/201.../mkII-v0.2.png |
It looks like there was a "pilot error" in your CAD drawings regarding C6 and C7 and their polarity thereof; (LOL) and magic smoke would result...
http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_13/5.html Also, why all the bother of doing a 21st century PC board when a simple time period correct 8-way terminal strip will do the same function (and terminal strips were how it was done; construction at the time) to somewhat maintain the authenticity of it? How far does one go with a restoration or a total re-engineering of this type of vintage gear? In the 1940's when this unit was produced, man-kind had no idea of how PCB materials like FR-4 would eventually revolutionize the electronic world of construction. Tom (PK) |
Yep, non-polarized film caps though, I just needed the right package style for pad placement and spacing. (Strangely the board layout icon is non-polarized but the schematic capture icon is...) If it were a polarized package style one of the pads for the caps would be square to indicate polarity. I'll have to play around with some of the other cap options and see what else is "not accurate."
As to why I'm going with a modern PCB style upgrade, the board will evolve over the next few weeks. I'm adding the ability to change the target voltage on the eye tube, and maybe one or two other things, including possibly adding a 1µF to "700"µF range. (700 only because that's the normal scale max of "70" x10, I honestly don't expect accuracy out of it, but I'll see what I can do.) The target voltage taps are for two reasons. First, to preserve the life of any eye tube by running it at a lower voltage that provides adequate brightness. (probably +160). Second, having higher taps (I'll go as high as +260) will allow one to use an already mostly worn out eye tube right down to the final nub of darkness. This considers a future where there are no NOS eye tubes available at any price, all have been used, some a lot more than others. The process of testing these changes will be very ugly, but once a working system has been achieved, boards will be made, components attached, and wiring replaced with some new manufacture cloth-covered wire. The goal is to have an intelligent blend of old and new. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:41 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.