![]() |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
The cap you mentioned in a CTC12 (and earlier chassis) is bypass on the 6AW8/6LF8 screen grid and causes weak sync in borderline cases:yes: |
ah, I see.
I have been chasing an issue where some brightness like a title in white causes a drop in overall screen brightness. Some how I got Zeno response tied up with that. |
I THINK what people are refering to is what is known as the "200 volt cap". It is in the bias supply to the CRT cathodes. Nearly always--it is a flyback-derived supply--on solid state sets. Even BW sets have this cap--including the 1M30T20--it is called the 120 volt supply--and derived from the flyabck.
It will be from a 2.2 UF to a possible 33UF, Usually 250 volts or more--but some late 70's to 90's sets tied that cap to the B+ supply --so it only sees the increase from the flyback on it. Occasionally--this cap is on the CRT board--but usually on the chassis, and often near the flyback. |
I decided to look carefully again at the color rendition of my CT-100.
It was not as good as I remembered. I could adjust the hue control to get mid-scale violets/magentas or yellows/oranges right, but not both. I took the top off with the intent to tweek. But doing the critical adjustments is impossible without pulling the chassis partly out. Too little clearance with the CRT. So I said, just do a check on all my normal test patterns from a USB key on the Blu-Ray and leave it at that. Success! the problem was not the hue control! It was "color" ... there is just zero way to set both hue and color correctly without a proper static color bars pattern and the Digital Video Essentials color filters or equivalent. Near perfect match between big TV, computer monitor, and CT-100 on a slide show (with color temperatures on LCDs set to match CT-100). Back to OTA and still a great match. Moral: don't complain about color rendition without setting color bars right. Ideally you want 75% brightness 100% saturated bars. I have special tests I made up (and posted) that allow you to use either blue or red bars (or green ones if you have a proper dichroic filter better than the plastic ones) but blue alone is OK if the room is truly dark. |
Let me clarify.
I was referring to tvcollectors 1981 Hitachi with a shading problem. The problem is so common I will go over it for those with less experience. This is an ALMOST ALWAYS tutorial. All solid state sets use 200 V to run the 3 color outputs. The 200V comes from 1) a secondary flyback winding ( most common) 2) OR not commonly off the primary & is stacked off the 130V. there are 2 caps involved in this case. Symptoms are any or all of the following. To bright Jail bars Brighter on left than right Retrace lines. Streaking Poor color HV shut down ( from too much beam current) How to find the cap. Find the 3 color outputs, usually on the CRT board. Each has a 1 or 2 watt resistor ( 18K + or - ) off the collectors. The other ends join together, thats the 200V. Follow the wire from that point back to the chassis. You will find the cap at the cathode of a diode. Sometimes there is a coil or low value resistor in series with everything. Of course if you cant find it post the model & chassis & one of us will look it up. BTW some sets cam in with another problem but just didnt look right. It was this cap just starting to go. I always loved this problem, a gravy job that put steaks on the table & beer in the frig:beer: 73 Zeno:smoke: |
Here is a comparison. First photo is from Ed Reitan's CBS field sequential television. Correction: Photography from the screen of John Folsom's 1950 CBS Labs RX-43 CBS Color Receiver as seen on Ed Reitan's website.
http://www.visions4.net/journal/wp-c...ds/image64.jpg Second photo is from a 70 inch 2012 Sharp Quatron LCD. http://www.visions4.net/journal/wp-c...ds/image65.jpg |
dtvmcdonald,
Would it be possible for you to post the identical screenshot of Dorothy as seen on your CT-100? Added: ... Or anyone else that owns a CT-100. Would love to see a comparison screenshot of the identical frame of Dorothy on your CT-100. |
Quote:
If you took that flatscreen screen shot, and ED did not take his from the same broadcast, then you are likely comparing apples to oranges, rather than apples to apples. |
Thanks for info zeno.. I'll look into that one of these days..
|
Quote:
The author of this thread said this in part "I have always sort of liked having a working "roundie" color set around for decades now, but i'm not sure why really. I personally think that they can make as decent a picture as most anything else I have seen, but I also think that the flat screens everyone has gone nuts over don't look that great really. Or not great enough for me to spend the money that they at least once commanded at retail." I disagree that flat panels don't look great, that is why I posted the roundie screenshot and my screenshot. I would love to see comparison screenshots of the same exact frame from owners of the CT-100 or any other roundie posted here. My screenshot is from a Direct TV satellite transmission. I suspect other screenshots will look better or worse then my shot, depending on the source. BTW, I like roundies, too. :-) |
I don't go around check flat screens often, but IIRC there was something about fast movement that did not look right to me. Maybe that is not the case anymore, but like I said I cant remember the last time I looked at one long enough to know if it was still the same.
|
The best comparison is the one I did between an original on my computer
screen (i.e. no TV in between) and my CT-100: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...=262176&page=6 This is not a screen shot of the computer. Its the original. The camera image of the CT-100 was tweeked in Photoshop with the computer monitor sitting om the CT-100 until the images on the CT-100 and the computer were identical except for brightness. This is a test of TV resolution, color, and contrast. What you see on YOUR computer is an accurate report on the DIFFERENCE between the original as seen on the computer and the image on the TV. |
Quote:
I'm thinking about image quality, ie, color rendition and resolution as compared to the old roundies. Don't get me wrong, I have already said that I'm a fan of roundies. I have two so far and looking for a few more. |
Quote:
I wish I had time to re-read everything, but I don't. :tongue: I personally strongly dislike flatscreen sets. Non-Gaussian image elements don't look right to me (a certain softness and cross fade from picture element to picture element makes an image look better), I don't like (makes my eyes tired) the flashing nature of image refresh in a flat screen (versus the soft fade of a CRT), and don't get me started on viewing angle limitations of flat screens and all the maladies digital video has built in to it. If I ever go HD I'm getting an HD CRT set. |
Quote:
As to the screen shot I posted, if anyone has the DVD of the Wizard of Oz, the frame is at the 43 minute mark, just before Dorothy meets the scarecrow. You could take a screenshot on your roundie and post it here for comparison purposes. |
Quote:
Good luck with your future HD CRT. |
I found this tread: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...oz+screenshots
Beautiful screenshots on a CT-55. The first photo is of Dorothy from Oz on a roundie. |
3 Attachment(s)
Quote:
The clearer photos are photos made with a Canon 7D camera. They have not been through video. The comparison is beween the original and images of the CT100. As I said, the CT100s are adjusted so that when I am looking at the photos of the CT100 on the same Dell monitor, the images on the monitor look exactly like the CT100. Thus, the comparison on YOUR computer is also exactly the same difference between the original and the CT100. I post images of the same Dorothy scene. These are made with the same camera. This is a dvd, not a Blu-ray. It is output as NTSC and modulated on a B-T agile modulator. Both sets look at NTSC true VSB, cut off at 4.2 MHz an -1.25 MHz. The sharp one is my Sony Bravia 45 inch LCD and the other two are the CT100. The camera and processing was set for no sharpening, no noise reduction, no contrast enhancement, and 5250K. The camera was defocused to smear out the dot structure. They were 1/6 second exposures, the f-number was set to compensate for brightness difference. One CT100 image was changed in one way: the color temp slider in Photoshop was moved to 4850K. This makes it look bluer. This is probably a better representation of a by eye comparison; apparently the camera, set for non-auto color temp, is being fooled by phosphor differences. http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485 http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485 http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485 |
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90491159,d.b2w
I have some pretty good shots from the oz on this video |
Quote:
I think I read somewhere the roundies used a rare Earth element to produce reds in better quality, yittrium, IIRC but they switched over to something else when the rectangular sets came out and the phosphor leaned more towards a red/orange. BTW, I'm in Ohio now, had to move with the death of my mother. I'm close to Wheeling, WV. It's just me and two cats, my 15 year old is running around like a kitten. |
Quote:
Comments: Image on left looks too blue, looks like 9500 to 11000 K. I see image processing going on in the background. Image in the center looks the most satisfying, well saturated, but slightly warm. Image on the right looks like you added a blue filter. Why did you not set the camera to auto exposure and why did you defocus? I think you would have a truer representation of the images. Yes, the pixel structure would be noticeable on the CRT. Don't we want to see the brightness differences? May I ask the age of the Sony and was it calibrated to Rec.709? Was your CT-100 calibrated? Thank you for posting the images, very nice set and images. |
Quote:
|
For the love of god, can someone please compare something that is more modern instead of always using a "Wizard of Oz" for a screen shot? I've seen so many screenshots of that movie, probably every frame of that damn movie.. The wizard of oz was redone in color back in the early days of color TV, so of course you're going to be able to compare roundie verses flatscreen a little easier.. Maybe something from the 2000s that's not cartoonish..
|
Quote:
correct 4850K to 5250K. I probably should have used 6000K. I will redo. Why not auto exposure? Because then the comparison would not be real. This is VERY important ... if you use autoexposure it will automatically change the color temperature setting. Why defocus? This is very important! Its perfectly possible to focus accurately. This means, using my camera, that the camera resolves the individual color dots or rectangles. To get accurate color rendition you then have to set the camera exposure so that the brightest dots do not overload the sensor. This results in a VERY dark image! So if you don't defocus the camera you have do the defocus in Photoshop if you want the whole screen in one image 900 pixels high or less so it can be posted on Videokarma. I have posted pics of my CT-100 showing the dots clearly. The Sony is two years old and is calibrated as best I can to about 6000K, just using a test DVD. The Sony is identically calibrated at least by intent. Getting good pictures of color TVs is not easy! It is very much not a matter of using auto settings on a camera! |
Quote:
also the yellows on the marching soldiers were particularly good, I often have trouble getting those correct. |
Quote:
I try and make the room as dark as possible and then fill the image sensor with just the screen of the TV. Then the sensor is reading the light of the TV image only. I use auto settings and don't try and manipulate anything with Photoshop. Excuse me if I say this, but to me if you manipulate a photo, you are changing it up from what the camera sees. I read that you wanted to compensate because the color pixels seem to fool the camera. If you use the same camera, the same dark room levels and use the same auto settings, to me that is the fairest way to create comparison digital screenshots. No manipulation to alter the captures. |
Quote:
|
it came with a 21CYP22, but alas one of the filaments was open with that (the operating guns test GREAT argh).
I has a 21FBP22, the kind with the greenish face. I am holding on to the grey face 21CYP22 in hopes of someday getting it rebuilt. |
Quote:
be pin sharp and the autoexposure will be correct on average, so that the individual brightest color dots will be very highly overexposed. This totally ruins the color. You absolutely must either defocus or use manual exposure to way way underexpose. |
1 Attachment(s)
I reprocessed the Bravia photo to 6500K in Camera Raw. This
is extremely close to what a camera auto color temperature would have done (Camera Rawhttp: tells you that). //www.videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=186496&stc=1&d=1428689 351 |
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
To my eye this image is much better then the first Sony image. It still looks blue. I'd guess about 7700 to 8000K. It definitely does not look to be 6500K. I still see the basket weave artifacts in the background. Is the Sony generating the artifacts? My iPad is measured at 7041K and could be showing the image bluer then it is.
I have been watching ISF calibrated television images since the late 90's. I am used to seeing proper color temperature. |
Call me crazy, but I like using Disneys Bolt. The simulated backdrops, vibrant but balanced colors. Real good.
|
I think you see it right. The Sony was set for one step too cool.
The weave pattern is caused because I did not quite blur out all the pixel pattern of either set since I wanted as much detail as possible. The Sony is not generating the artifact. Its possible to do it right but a pain! The CT-100 CAN generate moire artifacts because the focus is so good that lines can be narrower than the pixel pitch. However, its not showing in these pics. |
Quote:
It has been restored in later years using modern technology to get the most out of it but it's always been a color film. |
Quote:
Plasma TVs and micromirror devices get their gray scale by duty cycle modulation, which can cause some artifacts when there is motion present or when the eyeball scans across the image quickly. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:57 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2026, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
©Copyright 2012 VideoKarma.org, All rights reserved.