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-   -   Do "roundie" color sets make a better picture than later sets? (http://www.videokarma.org/showthread.php?t=263956)

compucat 04-05-2015 07:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tubejunke (Post 3130612)
I am guessing that the writer is referring to this topic in relation to his specific age group. With that I would agree, but I'm not positive that's what he means. It actually backs up one of the possibilities I mentioned in starting this thread of why the specific "roundie" color set has such a big fan base. The age group that saw all of this come along could easily want a piece of a fond old memory around. Inversely, I mentioned I think in a second post that most of my sets are older than I am. So, being a kid in the 70s, my memories of these sets were just that they were just another set. Or later junk... yep.

By the time I took my high school electronics training in the early 80s. our donation area in the classroom was well populated with them. However, even then I remember specifically wanting to work on those just because they seemed more interesting than the other almost as old rectangulars which I had no interest in. I still think there is more to this than nostalgia really. I mean how many people want their first touch tone phone or cell phone back? Or their first computer for that matter. I think a lot of us have some training in electronics and simply enjoy the challenge of getting an old TV or radio going again and preserving it for whatever reason. That would sort of explain me, but I have never been able to explain even to myself the love of TV and radio in some cases much older than I am. It just comes naturally.....:thmbsp:

I feel the exact same way. I always gravitated toward the vintage stuff especially tube electronics as it always seemed more interesting. Another thing is that vintage tv and radio do not become functionally obsolete unlike early computers and cellphones. My first cellphone was a Motorola brick in 1993 and it was analog so if I had it today It could never be used as the networks are all digital now. My first computer I bought new was a Packard Bell 486 SX20 with 2mb of ram. Today I bet it would not even load this forum page but my 1965 Zentih Roundie and my 1949 Motorola 9VT1 can still receive the current programming, even Netflix with the digital converter and Roku boxes to which they are connected. Not to mention my 1937 Philco 610 radio can still pick up Coast To Coast AM every night.

compucat 04-05-2015 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rca2000 (Post 3130639)
It was NOT just you....I still have fond memories of my 25MC33, seeing shows like "the spy who loved me" 2001", Dark star", Caddyshack", Airport 79" Coma", "You only live twice"...along with a LOT of mission impossible episodes and such. ... and MANY others--for about a year--on that wonderful set. It was OTA only, and only a few channels. BUT what we had ...just looked SOOO good !!

Zenith claimed they "had something different and special" in their roundie set--from the 29JC20 on...IMHO....they DEFINITELY did !!

I know what you mean abouth the 25MC33 sets. I have one and the picture is stunning. Everything I watch on it looks great. It is really fun to watch Mad Men on it as roundies were often featured in that show. The build quality on the Zeniths is excellent and it makes me feel as if the set can las for decades more with good care. I just can't see any flat panel lasting as long. I was always fascinated by round screen sets the first one I ever saw was a Zenith color roundie back in 1974 as a kid and I never forgot it.

DaveWM 04-06-2015 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zeno (Post 3130546)
To fix the shading you just need to replace the filter cap on the
200 V line. Usually a 4.7mfd use a 450 V. One of the most
common problems on ANY color TV.

73 Zeno:smoke:

Zeno is that the video out screen decoupler? I see a 2uf on the 160v line that feeds the video out screen (ctc-12)

DavGoodlin 04-06-2015 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 3130722)
Zeno is that the video out screen decoupler? I see a 2uf on the 160v line that feeds the video out screen (ctc-12)

Dave - I think Zeno is referring to TVCollector's early 80s Toshiba. Saw one with jail-bars on a left half of screen and it was a 22uf 160 volt cap that filtered the sweep-derived G2 supply on the CRT socket board.

The cap you mentioned in a CTC12 (and earlier chassis) is bypass on the 6AW8/6LF8 screen grid and causes weak sync in borderline cases:yes:

DaveWM 04-06-2015 02:43 PM

ah, I see.

I have been chasing an issue where some brightness like a title in white causes a drop in overall screen brightness. Some how I got Zeno response tied up with that.

rca2000 04-06-2015 07:45 PM

I THINK what people are refering to is what is known as the "200 volt cap". It is in the bias supply to the CRT cathodes. Nearly always--it is a flyback-derived supply--on solid state sets. Even BW sets have this cap--including the 1M30T20--it is called the 120 volt supply--and derived from the flyabck.

It will be from a 2.2 UF to a possible 33UF, Usually 250 volts or more--but some late 70's to 90's sets tied that cap to the B+ supply --so it only sees the increase from the flyback on it.

Occasionally--this cap is on the CRT board--but usually on the chassis, and often near the flyback.

dtvmcdonald 04-09-2015 09:00 AM

I decided to look carefully again at the color rendition of my CT-100.
It was not as good as I remembered. I could adjust the hue control to get
mid-scale violets/magentas or yellows/oranges right, but not both.

I took the top off with the intent to tweek. But doing the critical
adjustments is impossible without pulling the chassis partly out. Too
little clearance with the CRT. So I said, just do a check on
all my normal test patterns from a USB key on the Blu-Ray and
leave it at that. Success! the problem was not the hue control!
It was "color" ... there is just zero way to set both hue and color
correctly without a proper static color bars pattern and the Digital
Video Essentials color filters or equivalent. Near perfect match
between big TV, computer monitor, and CT-100 on a slide show
(with color temperatures on LCDs set to match CT-100). Back
to OTA and still a great match.

Moral: don't complain about color rendition without setting color bars right.
Ideally you want 75% brightness 100% saturated bars. I have
special tests I made up (and posted) that allow you to use either blue
or red bars (or green ones if you have a proper dichroic filter better than
the plastic ones) but blue alone is OK if the room
is truly dark.

zeno 04-09-2015 09:49 AM

Let me clarify.
I was referring to tvcollectors 1981 Hitachi with a shading problem.
The problem is so common I will go over it for those with less experience.
This is an ALMOST ALWAYS tutorial.
All solid state sets use 200 V to run the 3 color outputs.
The 200V comes from
1) a secondary flyback winding ( most common)
2) OR not commonly off the primary & is stacked off the 130V.
there are 2 caps involved in this case.

Symptoms are any or all of the following.
To bright
Jail bars
Brighter on left than right
Retrace lines.
Streaking
Poor color
HV shut down ( from too much beam current)

How to find the cap.
Find the 3 color outputs, usually on the CRT board.
Each has a 1 or 2 watt resistor ( 18K + or - ) off the collectors.
The other ends join together, thats the 200V.
Follow the wire from that point back to the chassis.
You will find the cap at the cathode of a diode.
Sometimes there is a coil or low value resistor in series with
everything.
Of course if you cant find it post the model & chassis & one
of us will look it up.

BTW some sets cam in with another problem but just didnt
look right. It was this cap just starting to go. I always loved this
problem, a gravy job that put steaks on the table & beer in
the frig:beer:

73 Zeno:smoke:

etype2 04-09-2015 09:53 AM

Here is a comparison. First photo is from Ed Reitan's CBS field sequential television. Correction: Photography from the screen of John Folsom's 1950 CBS Labs RX-43 CBS Color Receiver as seen on Ed Reitan's website.

http://www.visions4.net/journal/wp-c...ds/image64.jpg

Second photo is from a 70 inch 2012 Sharp Quatron LCD.

http://www.visions4.net/journal/wp-c...ds/image65.jpg

etype2 04-09-2015 10:06 AM

dtvmcdonald,

Would it be possible for you to post the identical screenshot of Dorothy as seen on your CT-100?

Added: ... Or anyone else that owns a CT-100. Would love to see a comparison screenshot of the identical frame of Dorothy on your CT-100.

Electronic M 04-09-2015 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3130990)
Here is a comparison. First photo is from Ed Reitan's CBS field sequential television. Correction: Photography from the screen of John Folsom's 1950 CBS Labs RX-43 CBS Color Receiver as seen on Ed Reitan's website.

Second photo is from a 70 inch 2012 Sharp Quatron LCD.

There are several different video releases of the Wizard of Oz (it's been discussed on VK before) , and there are wild chroma and general picture quality differences between them. The TBS banner at the bottom of that one shot makes me think those two photos were NOT taken from the same video source.

If you took that flatscreen screen shot, and ED did not take his from the same broadcast, then you are likely comparing apples to oranges, rather than apples to apples.

tvcollector 04-09-2015 01:25 PM

Thanks for info zeno.. I'll look into that one of these days..

etype2 04-09-2015 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3131002)
There are several different video releases of the Wizard of Oz (it's been discussed on VK before) , and there are wild chroma and general picture quality differences between them. The TBS banner at the bottom of that one shot makes me think those two photos were NOT taken from the same video source.

If you took that flatscreen screen shot, and ED did not take his from the same broadcast, then you are likely comparing apples to oranges, rather than apples to apples.

Yes. If you re-read my post, I explained where the two images came from.

The author of this thread said this in part "I have always sort of liked having a working "roundie" color set around for decades now, but i'm not sure why really. I personally think that they can make as decent a picture as most anything else I have seen, but I also think that the flat screens everyone has gone nuts over don't look that great really. Or not great enough for me to spend the money that they at least once commanded at retail."

I disagree that flat panels don't look great, that is why I posted the roundie screenshot and my screenshot.

I would love to see comparison screenshots of the same exact frame from owners of the CT-100 or any other roundie posted here. My screenshot is from a Direct TV satellite transmission. I suspect other screenshots will look better or worse then my shot, depending on the source.

BTW, I like roundies, too. :-)

DaveWM 04-09-2015 03:05 PM

I don't go around check flat screens often, but IIRC there was something about fast movement that did not look right to me. Maybe that is not the case anymore, but like I said I cant remember the last time I looked at one long enough to know if it was still the same.

dtvmcdonald 04-09-2015 03:14 PM

The best comparison is the one I did between an original on my computer
screen (i.e. no TV in between) and my CT-100:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...=262176&page=6

This is not a screen shot of the computer. Its the original. The
camera image of the CT-100 was tweeked in Photoshop with
the computer monitor sitting om the CT-100 until the images
on the CT-100 and the computer were identical except for brightness.

This is a test of TV resolution, color, and contrast. What you see
on YOUR computer is an accurate report on the DIFFERENCE between
the original as seen on the computer and the image on the TV.

etype2 04-09-2015 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 3131009)
I don't go around check flat screens often, but IIRC there was something about fast movement that did not look right to me. Maybe that is not the case anymore, but like I said I cant remember the last time I looked at one long enough to know if it was still the same.

Your right. LCD panels have suffered from slow response time and viewing angles. Most of the early problems have been overcome in the newest, better quality panels, but to some degree those problems still persist.

I'm thinking about image quality, ie, color rendition and resolution as compared to the old roundies. Don't get me wrong, I have already said that I'm a fan of roundies. I have two so far and looking for a few more.

Electronic M 04-09-2015 04:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3131008)
Yes. If you re-read my post, I explained where the two images came from.

The author of this thread said this in part "I have always sort of liked having a working "roundie" color set around for decades now, but i'm not sure why really. I personally think that they can make as decent a picture as most anything else I have seen, but I also think that the flat screens everyone has gone nuts over don't look that great really. Or not great enough for me to spend the money that they at least once commanded at retail."

I disagree that flat panels don't look great, that is why I posted the roundie screenshot and my screenshot.

I would love to see comparison screenshots of the same exact frame from owners of the CT-100 or any other roundie posted here. My screenshot is from a Direct TV satellite transmission. I suspect other screenshots will look better or worse then my shot, depending on the source.

I just noticed another thing wrong in your comparison the 'roundy' picture is a field sequential set. Field sequential sets are scarce as hens teeth, and are a completely different (and less adjustable) process of color image generation (monochrome CRT with a color wheel spinning in in front of it) than a normal color CRT, and I'd dare say fall outside the most peoples definition of a roundy color set.

I wish I had time to re-read everything, but I don't. :tongue:

I personally strongly dislike flatscreen sets. Non-Gaussian image elements don't look right to me (a certain softness and cross fade from picture element to picture element makes an image look better), I don't like (makes my eyes tired) the flashing nature of image refresh in a flat screen (versus the soft fade of a CRT), and don't get me started on viewing angle limitations of flat screens and all the maladies digital video has built in to it. If I ever go HD I'm getting an HD CRT set.

etype2 04-09-2015 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald (Post 3131011)
The best comparison is the one I did between an original on my computer
screen (i.e. no TV in between) and my CT-100:

http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...=262176&page=6

This is not a screen shot of the computer. Its the original. The
camera image of the CT-100 was tweeked in Photoshop with
the computer monitor sitting om the CT-100 until the images
on the CT-100 and the computer were identical except for brightness.

This is a test of TV resolution, color, and contrast. What you see
on YOUR computer is an accurate report on the DIFFERENCE between
the original as seen on the computer and the image on the TV.

I looked at the three sets of two images on that thread. If I understand correctly, the photos on the left are from the CT-100 and the clearer photos on the right are from the Sony LCD? Or am I wrong?

As to the screen shot I posted, if anyone has the DVD of the Wizard of Oz, the frame is at the 43 minute mark, just before Dorothy meets the scarecrow. You could take a screenshot on your roundie and post it here for comparison purposes.

etype2 04-09-2015 04:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3131016)
I just noticed another thing wrong in your comparison the 'roundy' picture is a field sequential set. Field sequential sets are scarce as hens teeth, and are a completely different (and less adjustable) process of color image generation (monochrome CRT with a color wheel spinning in in front of it) than a normal color CRT, and I'd dare say fall outside the most peoples definition of a roundy color set.

I wish I had time to re-read everything, but I don't. :tongue:

I personally strongly dislike flatscreen sets. Non-Gaussian image elements don't look right to me (a certain softness and cross fade from picture element to picture element makes an image look better), I don't like (makes my eyes tired) the flashing nature of image refresh in a flat screen (versus the soft fade of a CRT), and don't get me started on viewing angle limitations of flat screens and all the maladies digital video has built in to it. If I ever go HD I'm getting an HD CRT set.

You are not telling me anything I don't know. I already said it was a field sequential set and that a better comparison would be to compare a CT-100 or other "modern" roundie from the 60's and sorry, if you don't read through my posts, then I have to respond.

Good luck with your future HD CRT.

etype2 04-09-2015 05:33 PM

I found this tread: http://www.videokarma.org/showthread...oz+screenshots

Beautiful screenshots on a CT-55. The first photo is of Dorothy from Oz on a roundie.

dtvmcdonald 04-09-2015 07:13 PM

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3131017)
I looked at the three sets of two images on that thread. If I understand correctly, the photos on the left are from the CT-100 and the clearer photos on the right are from the Sony LCD? Or am I wrong?
.

You are wrong.
The clearer photos are photos made with a Canon 7D camera. They
have not been through video. The comparison is beween the original
and images of the CT100. As I said, the CT100s are adjusted so that
when I am looking at the photos of the CT100 on the same Dell monitor,
the images on the monitor look exactly like the CT100. Thus,
the comparison on YOUR computer is also exactly the same difference
between the original and the CT100.

I post images of the same Dorothy scene. These are made with the same camera. This is a dvd, not a Blu-ray. It is output as NTSC and
modulated on a B-T agile modulator. Both sets look at NTSC
true VSB, cut off at 4.2 MHz an -1.25 MHz.

The sharp one is my Sony Bravia 45 inch LCD and the other two
are the CT100. The camera and processing was set for
no sharpening, no noise reduction, no contrast enhancement,
and 5250K. The camera was defocused to smear out the dot structure.
They were 1/6 second exposures, the f-number was set to compensate for
brightness difference. One CT100 image was changed
in one way: the color temp slider in Photoshop was moved to 4850K.
This makes it look bluer. This is probably a better representation of a by eye comparison; apparently the camera, set for non-auto color temp, is being fooled by phosphor differences.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

DaveWM 04-09-2015 08:33 PM

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90491159,d.b2w

I have some pretty good shots from the oz on this video

NowhereMan 1966 04-09-2015 09:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rca2000 (Post 3130522)
I Have a LOT of 1970's set. Just acquired a 1973 TS-938 Quasar set from Doug a couple of weeks back. It is the one with the SMPS_-WAAYYY before those became "common". Last one I had was in 1988 maybe 89....till now.

1980' sets...a FEW interest me...but not a lot of them. I have one of the RCA CTC-133 sets with that "square tube" from 86 I think, and a couple of the non-dimensia CTC 131 sets. But the Zenith sets from that era do NOT interest me that much.. Most had the 9-160 chassis, or 9-181 or 214 module till maybe 1985 or so...and those do NOT interest me. Shitty flys, Hot chassis, a LOT of wires connecting boards. The tubes were often pretty good though. After those came the 9-516 chassis --cold, but STILL a LOT of long wires running everywhere...

I also have a NAP 25C8 set--from 1987 or so. Good tube--think it works.

But a LOT of 1980's set had hot chassis....and that is a turn OFF for me.

I have one of those 9-181's from 1982 and in fact I'm watching MeTV right now. She does show her age a little bit, the pic goes a bit red for a little bit and then stays good for months. Still, she is a trooper and my favorite set.

I think I read somewhere the roundies used a rare Earth element to produce reds in better quality, yittrium, IIRC but they switched over to something else when the rectangular sets came out and the phosphor leaned more towards a red/orange.

BTW, I'm in Ohio now, had to move with the death of my mother. I'm close to Wheeling, WV. It's just me and two cats, my 15 year old is running around like a kitten.

etype2 04-10-2015 02:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald (Post 3131035)
You are wrong.
The clearer photos are photos made with a Canon 7D camera. They
have not been through video. The comparison is beween the original
and images of the CT100. As I said, the CT100s are adjusted so that
when I am looking at the photos of the CT100 on the same Dell monitor,
the images on the monitor look exactly like the CT100. Thus,
the comparison on YOUR computer is also exactly the same difference
between the original and the CT100.

I post images of the same Dorothy scene. These are made with the same camera. This is a dvd, not a Blu-ray. It is output as NTSC and
modulated on a B-T agile modulator. Both sets look at NTSC
true VSB, cut off at 4.2 MHz an -1.25 MHz.

The sharp one is my Sony Bravia 45 inch LCD and the other two
are the CT100. The camera and processing was set for
no sharpening, no noise reduction, no contrast enhancement,
and 5250K. The camera was defocused to smear out the dot structure.
They were 1/6 second exposures, the f-number was set to compensate for
brightness difference. One CT100 image was changed
in one way: the color temp slider in Photoshop was moved to 4850K.
This makes it look bluer. This is probably a better representation of a by eye comparison; apparently the camera, set for non-auto color temp, is being fooled by phosphor differences.

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

http://www.videokarma.org/attachment...1&d=1428624485

To give you my perspective, I am viewing your images on an iPad Air with 2048x1536 resolution, 108% sRGB/Rec.709 color gamut, just slightly blue white at 7041 K. (6500K the standard)

Comments: Image on left looks too blue, looks like 9500 to 11000 K. I see image processing going on in the background.

Image in the center looks the most satisfying, well saturated, but slightly warm.

Image on the right looks like you added a blue filter.

Why did you not set the camera to auto exposure and why did you defocus? I think you would have a truer representation of the images. Yes, the pixel structure would be noticeable on the CRT. Don't we want to see the brightness differences?

May I ask the age of the Sony and was it calibrated to Rec.709? Was your CT-100 calibrated?

Thank you for posting the images, very nice set and images.

etype2 04-10-2015 02:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 3131038)
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...90491159,d.b2w

I have some pretty good shots from the oz on this video

I enjoyed your video. The village scenes looked outstanding.

tvcollector 04-10-2015 03:43 AM

For the love of god, can someone please compare something that is more modern instead of always using a "Wizard of Oz" for a screen shot? I've seen so many screenshots of that movie, probably every frame of that damn movie.. The wizard of oz was redone in color back in the early days of color TV, so of course you're going to be able to compare roundie verses flatscreen a little easier.. Maybe something from the 2000s that's not cartoonish..

dtvmcdonald 04-10-2015 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3131053)
Image in the center looks the most satisfying, well saturated, but slightly warm.

Image on the right looks like you added a blue filter.

Why did you not set the camera to auto exposure and why did you defocus? .

I DID add blue filter to the one on the right. The filter I added would
correct 4850K to 5250K. I probably should have used 6000K. I will redo.

Why not auto exposure? Because then the comparison would not be real.
This is VERY important ... if you use autoexposure it will automatically change
the color temperature setting.

Why defocus? This is very important! Its perfectly possible to
focus accurately. This means, using my camera, that the camera
resolves the individual color dots or rectangles. To get accurate color
rendition you then have to set the camera exposure so that the brightest
dots do not overload the sensor. This results in a VERY dark image!
So if you don't defocus the camera you have do the defocus
in Photoshop if you want the whole screen in one image 900 pixels
high or less so it can be posted on Videokarma. I have posted pics
of my CT-100 showing the dots clearly.

The Sony is two years old and is calibrated as best I can to about 6000K,
just using a test DVD. The Sony is identically calibrated at least
by intent.

Getting good pictures of color TVs is not easy! It is very much not a matter
of using auto settings on a camera!

DaveWM 04-10-2015 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3131054)
I enjoyed your video. The village scenes looked outstanding.

I liked the blues in the village scenes, they really were vibrant.
also the yellows on the marching soldiers were particularly good, I often have trouble getting those correct.

etype2 04-10-2015 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald (Post 3131061)
I DID add blue filter to the one on the right. The filter I added would
correct 4850K to 5250K. I probably should have used 6000K. I will redo.

Why not auto exposure? Because then the comparison would not be real.
This is VERY important ... if you use autoexposure it will automatically change
the color temperature setting.

Why defocus? This is very important! Its perfectly possible to
focus accurately. This means, using my camera, that the camera
resolves the individual color dots or rectangles. To get accurate color
rendition you then have to set the camera exposure so that the brightest
dots do not overload the sensor. This results in a VERY dark image!
So if you don't defocus the camera you have do the defocus
in Photoshop if you want the whole screen in one image 900 pixels
high or less so it can be posted on Videokarma. I have posted pics
of my CT-100 showing the dots clearly.

The Sony is two years old and is calibrated as best I can to about 6000K,
just using a test DVD. The Sony is identically calibrated at least
by intent.

Getting good pictures of color TVs is not easy! It is very much not a matter
of using auto settings on a camera!

I feel it is just the opposite. I have been taking screenshots since the first Trinitron was introduced in 1968. I was so impressed with its picture quality that I was compelled to try and capture some of those images. In those days, all analogue and a crap shoot compared to digital imaging.

I try and make the room as dark as possible and then fill the image sensor with just the screen of the TV. Then the sensor is reading the light of the TV image only. I use auto settings and don't try and manipulate anything with Photoshop. Excuse me if I say this, but to me if you manipulate a photo, you are changing it up from what the camera sees. I read that you wanted to compensate because the color pixels seem to fool the camera.

If you use the same camera, the same dark room levels and use the same auto settings, to me that is the fairest way to create comparison digital screenshots. No manipulation to alter the captures.

etype2 04-10-2015 09:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DaveWM (Post 3131062)
I liked the blues in the village scenes, they really were vibrant.
also the yellows on the marching soldiers were particularly good, I often have trouble getting those correct.

Even in the video, the vibrancy shows. You said it was a new CRT.

DaveWM 04-10-2015 10:08 AM

it came with a 21CYP22, but alas one of the filaments was open with that (the operating guns test GREAT argh).

I has a 21FBP22, the kind with the greenish face. I am holding on to the grey face 21CYP22 in hopes of someday getting it rebuilt.

dtvmcdonald 04-10-2015 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by etype2 (Post 3131071)
I feel it is just the opposite.
I try and make the room as dark as possible and then fill the image sensor with just the screen of the TV. Then the sensor is reading the light of the TV image only. I use auto settings and don't try and manipulate anything with Photoshop. Excuse me if I say this, but to me if you manipulate a photo, you are changing it up from what the camera sees. I read that you wanted to compensate because the color pixels seem to fool the camera.
.

One simply can't get away with full auto using a Canon 7D. The focus will
be pin sharp and the autoexposure will be correct on average, so that
the individual brightest color dots will be very highly overexposed. This
totally ruins the color. You absolutely must either defocus or
use manual exposure to way way underexpose.

dtvmcdonald 04-10-2015 01:10 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I reprocessed the Bravia photo to 6500K in Camera Raw. This
is extremely close to what a camera auto color temperature would have done
(Camera Rawhttp: tells you that).

//www.videokarma.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=186496&stc=1&d=1428689 351

old_tv_nut 04-10-2015 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dtvmcdonald (Post 3131084)
One simply can't get away with full auto using a Canon 7D. The focus will
be pin sharp and the autoexposure will be correct on average, so that
the individual brightest color dots will be very highly overexposed. This
totally ruins the color. You absolutely must either defocus or
use manual exposure to way way underexpose.

True. It was/is also true with photographing monochrome sets where the scan lines are distinctly resolvable with black in between. As a kid, I tried taking some shots off the TV screen, and was always disappointed. Much later I realized what was happening. The bright lines were overexposed, resulting in the image contrast being compressed when the average was normal. A similar situation applies with photographing the night sky, where either bright stars will clip or many dim stars will not be recorded.

old_tv_nut 04-10-2015 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvcollector (Post 3131055)
For the love of god, can someone please compare something that is more modern instead of always using a "Wizard of Oz" for a screen shot? I've seen so many screenshots of that movie, probably every frame of that damn movie.. The wizard of oz was redone in color back in the early days of color TV, so of course you're going to be able to compare roundie verses flatscreen a little easier.. Maybe something from the 2000s that's not cartoonish..

Do you have any suggestions? I really don't see what's wrong with using The Wizard of Oz - can't think of any particular thing that would be obviously superior, but if you have something in mind, please tell us.

etype2 04-10-2015 01:57 PM

To my eye this image is much better then the first Sony image. It still looks blue. I'd guess about 7700 to 8000K. It definitely does not look to be 6500K. I still see the basket weave artifacts in the background. Is the Sony generating the artifacts? My iPad is measured at 7041K and could be showing the image bluer then it is.

I have been watching ISF calibrated television images since the late 90's. I am used to seeing proper color temperature.

lnx64 04-10-2015 02:13 PM

Call me crazy, but I like using Disneys Bolt. The simulated backdrops, vibrant but balanced colors. Real good.

dtvmcdonald 04-10-2015 02:22 PM

I think you see it right. The Sony was set for one step too cool.

The weave pattern is caused because I did not quite blur out all the
pixel pattern of either set since I wanted as much detail as possible.
The Sony is not generating the artifact.

Its possible to do it right but a pain!

The CT-100 CAN generate moire artifacts because the focus is
so good that lines can be narrower than the pixel pitch. However,
its not showing in these pics.

Eric H 04-10-2015 03:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tvcollector (Post 3131055)
The wizard of oz was redone in color back in the early days of color TV,

Negative, the WOO was always in color, Three Strip Technicolor in fact.

It has been restored in later years using modern technology to get the most out of it but it's always been a color film.

old_tv_nut 04-10-2015 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Electronic M (Post 3131016)
... I don't like (makes my eyes tired) the flashing nature of image refresh in a flat screen (versus the soft fade of a CRT),

I'm afraid you have it backwards. Flat screen sets (particularly LCDs) display each image continuously; CRTs flash due to the persistence of the phosphor being (sort of) exponential. (Actually, phosphors typically have a main decay that is very rapid compared to field scan rate, but also have an extended low-level tail-off that can produce visible smear of bright objects against a black background; but the major effect by far is the fast drop-off.) Hence, in 50 Hz countries, flicker was always visible on CRTs, not so on LCDs. This characteristic of LCDs also caused smeared motion, alleviated in recent models by going to 120 Hz or 240 Hz refresh rates.
Plasma TVs and micromirror devices get their gray scale by duty cycle modulation, which can cause some artifacts when there is motion present or when the eyeball scans across the image quickly.


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