Using a regular ohm meter.. Klein tools to be exact..

I'm waiting for a few spares as for tubes.. I checked that 22k resistor and it's within spec..

I'm going to order up the caps and the resistors that are out of spec and just start replacing.. Only a couple of resistors that check way off, but those are probably the ones that give a proper readings out of circuit..

interesting so the you lifted the 22k for testing? its in circuit as well.
did you use the sams to check the pin resistance readings?

Be careful of the 6CG7/6FQ7 you use. The RCA side getter (clear top) types are controlled warmup time just for horizontal circuits. RCA made it to get drive to the HOT as fast as possible and to make sure the oscillator was stable and gave a locked in picture when the HV came up.

That voltage you posted was the H output grid voltage right? Normally I use 'HO tube' to refer to the output and 'H osc.' to refer to the oscilator.

If the H out tube grid is not as negative as it should be by more than ~15% the osc. and the parts coupling it to the output tube are automatically suspect.

My approach would be to replace any resistors that are out of tolerance, change the caps, make sure the osc. coil ohms out similarly to the values in the sam's and that it don't look damaged, and perhaps most importantly get a strong osc tube in there.

It's the grid off the 6FQ7 that I did the voltage check which is a tube that needs to be replaced.. I tested the 6JE6 horz output tube and it tests very strong... The horz osc coil also appears to look fine...

Please test the voltage at the grid of the H output tube.

Im getting -45.. Sounds about right.. Suppose to be -55 according to the Sams.. Realized i had to put the HV tube back in to get a correct reading.. Didn't let sit running for long seeing how I don't have pic tube connected..

That is almost 20% high which I'd consider a bad thing. Definitely work on that H osc.

Received the fine tuning gears.. Thanks a bunch Paul.. What type of grease would you all recommend to buy?

Also received some of the tubes including the 6CG7 [6FQ7] So I'll do some voltage checks probably tonight and see if there is any difference with a good tube..

I fixed the tuner, put the gears back in, had a hell of a time getting the tension spring in place seeing how I never saw what it looked like in place, so now its in perfect to where you push in to fine tune..

Now with the Horz osc issue.. I put in the new tube, and the voltage is now +2.6 at the grid of the osc tube.. Checked voltages at the HV output tube and meter just jumps around.. Doesn't make since, notice the HV output tube was glowing bright.. unplugged the unit, luckily I didn't kill the tube... Third time powering up the damper tube next to the HV tube started the glow bright...

pin 7 resistance to ground horz osc tube.

194K cold.. After power up it starts falling from being open and takes about 10min until it falls to 194k..

I dont understand what you mean about after power up etc...

is it 194k to ground with the set turned off?

what is the resistance from pin 6 of the horz osc to the output from the doubler diode (the one that supply the B+).

meaning I hooked up my ohm meter after power off, and the meter drops as for resistance for a while until it stay steady at around 194k, and it's to ground from pin 7 on the horz osc tube..

Not sure where the doubler diode is..

ok well that does not mean anything other than caps discharging. You always measure resistance on a chassis after B+ has been off long enough to discharge, same as you always read resistance after having hooked up to let is stablize just in case there is a cap in there. you should also reverse polarity when reading resistance if it reads an odd amount when comparing to the resistance chart.

what was the pin 6 to B+ double reading?

Ok, well I get 194k between pin 7 of horz osc tube to ground..

I'm not sure where to hook to B+ to measure..

there are two diodes in the power supply one has a connection to the ground, that is X1, it connect to X2, find the other side of X2 that is where you read to instead of the ground, see the Sams resistance pin reading charge, see the table explaining the symbols. some readings will be noted with symbols that tell you to read not to ground but some other place like the output of X2.

pin 6 of V11 read to the output of X2, should be 60k

sometime polarity or adj pots will effect these, sometimes sams is just wrong, sometime there are big variance and it does not matter, but its a starting point, after you narrow down the offending stage. A scope is a better tool for diagnosis, but you can do a lot just checking parts if you know where to look.

most of the time its going to be an open plate load resistor, a bad solder joint, a broken wire, this is why I discourage excessive cleaning and handling (wire and solder joint issues).

the number one thing to do is to wiggle the tubes in the circuit. poor contacts due to heat cycling is a big problem. cleaning the pins is a solution but I prefer to not mess with it until I have a base line run.

Ok I think I see what you are talking about on the sams.. Give me a few to figure out to list reading..

62.5k on the side of diode X2 assuming im measuring on the right side of that diode which is coming off one of the filter caps, to pin 6 on horz osc tube..

that sounds good, try wiggling the tube, try another tube, grid emissions can be an issue, best practice is to use a known good tube.

you can often just look closely and see the problem.

check resistances of coil L36 all terminals

dont forget to wiggle the tube when the set is on.

I try and measure the voltages at pin 7 of the osc tube.. Each time I power off and on again and measure again, I get a totally different readings..

Update: seems to be stabilizing at +28 volts..

I've wiggled tubes and all that too.. There's 5 different terminals coming off the horz osc..

if if the tube is getting +28v at the grid the tube or some part will be quickly distroyed, assuming B+ is still getting to the plate and the cathode is still connected to the ground thru the coil, check pin 8 per the sams.

thats right and resistance readings are on the sams.

you should confirm the circuit ground states are good, and watch this video, I have seem flakey tube sockets on other sets as well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4vkDchJRyI

Sams shows 23.5 ohms between 5 and 3, and 57.5 between 4 and 5.. None of the terminals are in order or labeled on the pc board for the osc coil, and the only one I can ID is the one going to ground.. I've measure between the 4 terminals in every way and I don't get anything at 23.5 ohms or 57.5 ohms.. I get 25 ohms between two of them and 65 ohms between another two, is the closest thing I can get.. I checked for continuity at the pin and the solder joint for each pin while tube is still in socket, probe of my ohm meter is thin enough... The new tube that I replaced is good but at the lower end, and it passes shorts and grid emissions..

I cleaned the volume/power switch with a little WD40 and the power switch is flaky..

pin 8 to ground resistance is?

check pin one
voltage and resistance per sams on the horz osc. Do this with the horz out tube removed from the socket to avoid damage.

Had to take a break from the project due to weekend jobs.. I'm back on it..

Pin 8 to ground is 50ohms
Pin 1 to ground is 22.5k
Pin 1 voltage is at 25VDC

Replaced alot of the caps and a few resistors and still no change..

Doing B+ source checks on the sweep board I'm getting around 435 on the 405 and 410 voltage test points.. It's slightly high for both, but is it still normal?

265 volt check point seems to be right dead on..

Come to find out it's the osc coil, I was able to get -120 at pin 7, then when I started touching the osc coil, the meter started jumping over over the place.. I've got a replacement coming from Moyers..

There was a bad solder joint on the old Horz Osc Coil.. Was able to get the voltages at -114 at pin 7 and -55 volts at the Horz output tube... Still I can't get the MA in the ballpark.. I can't get it under 240ma.. It also jumps around into the 300ma range when adjusting the horz hold control.. I replaced the old coil with the new one and makes no difference... I think the flyback is toast, I replaced shunt tube and other tube and hv only comes up to around 5000v..

Could there be an HV arc or short loading it down?

I'm not sure.. Don't know where to go to from here other than letting my friend Dave figure it out..

Well I posted results from what DaveWM asked a week ago.. He hasn't replied back to this thread.. I'm all ears.. I don't know where to go from here.. Tying to learn this stuff and if I can't fix it, than really is no point in having it.. My friend is not going to be around forever and if I can't keep these things going into the future than they will just be static items that are useless..

does the eff coil have a sharp peak?

did you go thru the horz sweep circ adj per the sams?
if so how is the shunt tube current (voltage drop across the 1k resistor, confirm the resistor value as well).

does the HV regulate well? (HV should hold constant while adjust raster brightness.

check the horz hold pot for continuity

is the line voltage 117v?