Domino resistor
 

Is there a way I can get some idea what the value is on this resistor which the center seems to have got hot and the color is gone. The first is brown and the last looks like it was brown but the middle I just don't know. The end dot looks to have a spec of brown left to suggest, brown, blank, brown.

What does the schematic identify it as?

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That's just the problem, there is no schematic due to last minute changes in production back in the day and comparing close schematics don't help.

Timmy, are you sure it is a resistor? I've never seen a mica mold resistor. If this is your TELE-TONE, determine what tube element the part ties to on both ends. Me thinks it is a cap. All the best,Tom

That's what I was alluding to in my post. If timmy could have found where he pulled it from on a schematic, he would have discovered that.

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Yes there are resistors that look like Micas and this resistor is between the 6x5 and 25z6 for the negative side of B+ . I found a site that shows the type resistor I have and it says this type resistor that has 3 color dots they are saying to read them like any other resistor like all the others with colors so I came up with anywhere between 100 ohms and 190 ohms because the first color is brown , next unknown, and a spec of brown on the third so I figured I would go between and put a 150 ohm because the original was burned in the middle measuring 1.2k ohms and I have a small issue with horiz and vert not filling top and bottom so if this works I'm good to go. Oh and yes it's the dreaded teletone that so I read many people having many problems with this particular set.

Aha! http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/...62645#p1762645

I probably knew that sometime in the past, but haven't worked on anything with them in a long time...

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So I guess the only way really to tell if it's a cap or resistor then it would have to maybe depend where in the circuit it's placed. :scratch2: :smoke:

The resistor in the negative source, between the two 30mf caps is a 1.2k 1w wire wound resistor. Red turns brown real easy with heat.
I've seen that type of Micamold resistor and most were tiny wire wounds.
WW resistors seldom change value, especially that much. They, most of the time, just open.

Problem is all the teletone schematics I looked at does not even come close to what I have here and this resistor don't look WW , it's flat . and mine is wired completely different then that of all the schematics out there. Some have ballast some don't some have 6x5 some don't. This resistor is not between 2 caps I already seen that in the schematic , it is so different.

Ok well I have a 1k WW in there now so I'll leave it and assume it's right, I broke the old resistor in half and it's WW so maybe that's the right one. And I do agree that WW usually don't change but rather open.

Maybe the Sams doesn't show it as a wire wound, but the original Tele-tone print shows 1.2K WW resistor in the B-circuit.

With a WW resistor, often you can break it open and find a section that has continuity, and extrapolate the original value.
E.g., if half the winding is good and shows 500 ohms, the original will be 1000 ohms. Or if a third of the winding is good and shows 500 ohms, the original will be 1500 ohms. Etc.

Since WWs don't change value much, this method gives a pretty reliable approximation, considering standard +/- tolerances.

Teletone verticle size
 

Still working on this schematic free set, 208, 208tr, 149, schematics don't match my set but anyway I have good sound and picture but cannot find any reason why I can't get full size top and bottom if I try to stretch by the pot the pic washes out Alittle and gets a line across the top so I back it down a bit and it just simply looks like everything is broadcast in wide screen. The bottom fills but not the top. All the caps, hv and power supply were replaced. Can't find any bad resistors.

Do all of the voltages across the circuit measure as specified?

Can't compair or I would, don't have a schematic for this one, to many production changes back in the day and these changes were never published. Figured there was something I may be over looking for the basic causes of not enough of vert size.

timmy - It often helps to keep your complete restoration progress for a TV or radio in ONE thread. It makes it easier for all to follow, that way we can often see when someone makes a mistake earlier that may have caused other problems later on. I'm not sure how many threads you have already on this Teletone, but it must be 5 or 6 by now. Not many people want to keep tracking your other threads to see what changes or repairs have already occurred, that may have indirectly caused the current problem.

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Well there was no specific problem that caused this and there may be 3 threads on the same set as not to mix up to much to do with this crazy set. it was mostly finding the right schematic which don't exist so I'm on my own without any voltages to go by.

A picture -- cabinet and chassis -- would help to identify the set.

From reading the above, one does not know enough about the set to make a suggestion.

James

Actually you do have 5 related threads started on this set. Had the same problem following your Pilot TV story that you started 7 separate but related threads about.

Please take the advice. If you make it difficult for people to follow along to help you, they will give up. Often one problem will lead to another, and it's really helpful to know all work that has been done so far.

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Ok, recapped, that's it, and it's I think 1948 teletone leatherette without the cover, 208 but what 208 no one knows. Comparing to the 149, 208, 208tr, none help this set at all as there are so many differences from mine to all the schematics out there. I'll figure it out, thanks.

Merged the several threads about this set into one. In the future, only create ONE thread per topic, please.

I'd imagine that they kept the vertical stage fairly standard across models...Trace your vertical stage and compare it to the schematics of all listed models that use similar vertical stage tubes to yours...If the vertical stage matches (or is very close), and uses similar B+ voltages, then all the tube base voltages on the vert section of the schematic should be used as references and compared to those in the set.

What's kind of odd is I compared the teletone tv149 voltages and the tv208 and they don't come close and the tv208tr voltages I don't have as I only have the schematic not the resistance and voltage charts. This verticle problem is minor I'm sure because everything is working fine except turning the size pot it stops filling in then gets a white line across the top almost to say it went over some limit. The pot I checked and it's good and also the resistor from the pot to the tube. I have 410vdc at the size pot but don't know if it's the right voltage.