While I had the tuner out, it was cleaned and then the turret strips were cleaned and the whole thing cleaned and lubed and reassembled.

Anybody know what the VOT is coated with? It looks like varnish. The frame had some corrosion on it so I sanded it off, but now I need to re-coat it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshtydegmc.jpg

Nice cleaning job! The transformer was likely dipped in insulating varnish after assembly.

I hope you were careful cleaning that chassis, as that yellow cadmium corrosion is pretty toxic stuff....

Vinegar works well too. You didn't remove the cadmium plating (unless the Brasso polishing did) - you removed the chromate salts they used to passivate the cadmium onto the steel, or cadmium sulfide/sulfate - both are yellowish green. If there was one thing Navy Corrosion Control taught me, it was that Chromate salts are always a yellowish green, and that raw cadmium corrodes to a grey powder.

The yellow-green patina is harmless to electronics undisturbed, but the chromate is toxic, so removing it from something handled so often was wise. We used to spray Humiseal on just-cleaned CADPLAD chassis to keep it from corroding - spray clear krylon (remove tubes and cover sockets!) works well.

Just dispose of your simple green rags in the trash - the concentration doesn't rise to hazmat levels.

Ok on the varnish.

Yup, I was careful.

Brian,

Thanks for the tip on the vinegar and the correction on the cad stuff. The Brasso treatment was very minimal, just to even out the coloration of the metal. the WD-40 finished it off nicely.

I wonder just how easily those chromate salts are adsorbed through our skin? I always thought the main concern was not inhaling any in a dust form.

A bit - there is a known dermatological response in most people, and some react with severe allergic reactions to the chromate salts.

"Chromium salts (chromates) are also the cause of allergic reactions in some people. Chromates are often used to manufacture, among other things, leather products, paints, cement, mortar, and anti-corrosives. Contact with products containing chromates can lead to allergic contact dermatitis and irritant dermatitis, resulting in ulceration of the skin, sometimes referred to as "chrome ulcers". This condition is often found in workers that have been exposed to strong chromate solutions in electroplating, tanning and chrome-producing manufacturers."

The worst reaction I've seen is a swollen red forehead on a worker that wiped off his sweat constantly while cleaning - the backstory is long, but he likened the pain to a jellyfish sting. I'm no expert, but have had the training three times - all after an incident elsewhere, the last in 2006. Laboratores, manus vestras perlavate. wash your hands...

Owie. That point of adsorption never occurred to me.

In keeping with fully documenting the kit, here are pictures of the bags of parts and the other parts that make up this kit.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4903o82s.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psontqkshq.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psqxvtuk2l.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswccytk1p.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psckor09uu.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps57wxwmly.jpg

Here are the contents of each bag. The parts are in order as they are in the parts list which is attached.

Bag #1: They give a interlock power cord, but no receptacle nor does the chassis have a cutout for one.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3qjgb1au.jpg

Bag #2:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psapuxxrax.jpg

Bag #3:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psa6gkbq0n.jpg

Bag #4:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psf0dy5iz0.jpg

Bag #4A:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2veed8mg.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspc4xqeub.jpg

Bag #5:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswgd4yuyk.jpg

Bag #6:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psxkeeggky.jpg

Bag #7:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps58iogseg.jpg

Bag #8:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psatk1ha2w.jpg

Bag #9:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1toadvcm.jpg

Wire Bag:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psykukmwjr.jpg

Newspaper:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmhzrvice.jpg

Speaker:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pslmbwfohs.jpg

Tubes: All Westinghouse.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pssdp6sjrn.jpg

Man, you are sitting on a goldmine of NOS wax caps - the guitar guys and some Asian audiophiles eat those up:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...acitor&_sop=16

actually sold:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_ftrt...p2045573.m1684

Swap them out for some yeller ones, and sell the wax ones....:yes:

Yikes! My kit, replacement parts and CRT just became free! Maybe even the cabinet too.

I have an order to Just Radios ready, just have to hit send.

Many of the components look like surplus parts scrounge. Bag #4 has caps from GE and Delco radio. The Marblelites are from Good-All, commomly used back then.
At least, some of the resistors are Allen Bradley. Some of the others, I wouldn't trust, except for the IRC's.
Fun stuff, for sure! :thmbsp:

Your HV lead has an inline plug on it....That might fit my CTC-4 HV receptacle. If you want to sell your HV lead or it swap for one off a 90's CRT TV just PM me.

Yeah, I have to agree. Some of the components look like I bought them today, while others look a bit "suspect".

I did measure a few resistors and they showed at least 10% high. The kit uses 10% and 20% resistors. It really doesn't matter, all the resistors will get replaced with modern 5% ones and they will be 1W and 2W instead of 1/2W and 1W. Mainly because the leads on modern 1/2W resistors are pretty wimpy. The 1W have much better leads. And of course all the paper caps will get replaced. I won't be replacing the 1 mica cap (bag #5) on this set because it looks brand new and is modern type build.

That just might happen. I'll keep you in mind when the time comes. Thanks for the offer.

OK guys, I have a bit of a problem that needs to be worked out. Basically it is the wires that I add to the chassis are called out in the step by step as far as length and to/from. But the step by step never gives the color of the wire to be used.

I have 9 different colors that the kit included. See Wire Bag above. I have the most wire in red and black. The the other colors are about 10 to 20% of what the red and black wires are. I have 1 wire that's about 18 inches long and the color of it is white with an orange stripe.

I created a "wire schedule" in Excel listing all the wires in each of the 6 instruction sheets.

I'm guessing that the color wire to be used depends on either the circuit or function. For example in the Admiral I just finished, orange went to a filter cap and was like B+ IIRC, etc.

Is there a chart that would show what colors should be used depending on the circuit/function? I know that black is usually ground but in this case it could be B- because B- floats off of the chassis. Red could be B+ of 130 volts. I'm including some attachments that might help explain my situation. They are a schematic, a "snapshot" of the step by step instructions from sheet 1, and my wire schedule. I figured that I could sort the wires by circuit/function to help get what I need for colors.

Radio Daze provides this handy color code chart. Of course this stuff in old text books as well.

http://www.radiodaze.com/vintage-component-color-code/

Great! I'll see how that works out.

I did start to trace out the wiring and as far as step 1 goes, it looks like it is wiring B-, B+ etc. So I'm starting to fill in my chart. I'll use that chart as a guide and see how that works out especially with the wire lengths provided.

Here are the wire lengths, in inches, of the wire provided in the kit. All wire is solid 20 awg.

Black - 256
Brown - 60
Red - 240
Orange - 120
Yellow - 36
Green - 53
Blue - 53
White - 54
White/Orange - 18
Fiberglass Sleeving - 13

The fiberglass sleeving fits a 20awg wire.

On behalf of Violet Wire, I demand a recount. :D:D

You sound like a former phone company employee. We called it violet, not purple. :D

Nah, just that the resistor (and wire) color code is based on the color spectrum, it's ROY G BIV, not ROY G BIP

Black, Brown, Gray and White, be gone!

True story - I knew the resistor color code before the 2nd grade.....

NOW BACK TO THE OP's thread....

My mnemonic has all the colors, but might be a bit dirty for the forums...It is third hand from a navy guy IIRC. :D

Bad Boys, Bad Beer, or Batman Beats? ;)

Back on topic, I finished making up the wire schedule and assigning them color codes.

Here are the colors and their functions:

Black - B-
Brown - Filament
Red - B+ 130V
Orange - B++ 260V
Yellow - Cathode
Green - Grid
Blue - Plate
Violet - Speaker
Gray - 120VAC mains
White - Misc.

I used a few blue and green colors for misc. hook ups to keep the same color wire from going to adjacent terminal strip lugs. I did this maybe 3 or 4 times.

Going through this exercise, I did manage to find a couple of errors and made note of the corrections.

I'm attaching the wire schedule.

According to the chart, it seems to follow the RMA color code. I like it a lot better for trouble shooting.
I built several Allied Knight-kits and they would furnish pre-cut wire of various lengths, the color corresponding to the length.
I always thought it was wrong, but I wired it per the instructions. :sigh:

Yeah, I tried to follow the chart I found in the Radio Daze catalog.

Today I was looking at the chassis and decided to clean up the bottom like I did on the top. I also did the top of the IF strip too. Looks much better now. A lot closer to "brand new".

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmn50zksd.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psglif9g7f.jpg

Good news to report coming up. Stay tuned.

I got a new 21FP4C rebuilt CRT. A big thank you to El Predicta who donated the CRT for this project. He also donated a spool of solid 20awg white wire. Thank you very much for your generosity!

Here are a few pictures of the CRT.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9eqfuykj.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5slhyhla.jpg

I tested the CRT on my B&K 467. It checked out at 1.7.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psma1hygqd.jpg

And the Life Test showed a drop from 1.7 to 1.65.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pst4tbhpug.jpg

Here is a picture of the straight gun. Yeah, I have to glue the base back on.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psrculxtex.jpg

Again a big shout out to El Predicta! Thank you.

The new CRT fits very well to the chassis.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdxlambzb.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0evbqvde.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ivvyato.jpg

I started working on re-stuffing the E-Caps. The first one is the multi sectioned C43. It has a 20uf 150V, 10uf 150V, and a 100uf 25V.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdb3cq8pa.jpg

After removing the cardboard cover, this is what I found:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pssifce1sr.jpg

I was a bit taken back but decided that what I should use is what the schematic and parts list calls for.

What do you think?

I'm in the middle of re-stuffing the E-Caps. I used my heat gun to heat up the cardboard cover and pulled it off the can. I then cleaned off all the black tar/wax from the capacitor. I then made some marks 3/8 inch up from the base of the cap. This is where I'll make the cut using my band saw. I cut each cap on the marks then dug out the caps innards. Cleaned up the bases and on the 2 single 200uf 150V caps I drilled 1/16 hole in the center and the other one near one of the mounting lugs. I'll run the wires through the holes and solder them to the correct lug.

I then took some 1" thin walled PVC tube and cut 1 inch lengths and trued up one end which was then marked.

After the bases were cleaned up and de-burred and the PVC tube de-burred and cleaned up, the marked end were epoxied into their bases. the excess epoxy was then wiped off and the assembly was cleaned using rubbing alcohol and then the new caps will be wired in.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3yddbtv.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pscpf8actr.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswmss1ari.jpg

I'd measure the cap and see what it truly was, and match that.

.

That would be kinda hard, seeing it's been cut in half. anyways I don't have any way to measure it.

That is quite normal. Capacitor manufacturers would often use a can that was already stamped and stuff whatever they needed into it when they knew they were going to put a cardboard sleeve around it. I have seen it several times.

I was thinking along the same lines. Remember this cap has never been installed, it is a part of the kit.

I restuff my cans in much the same way. The only thing different is, instead of the PVC pipe, I use the thin aluminum salvaged from a beverage can.
I cut the can apart with kitchen shears and roll the metal up as a sleave, then I use silicone sealant to hold it all together.

I looks like they used more of those scrappy grab-bag parts.
The label made on a spirit duplicator shows some real class. Reminds me of school days, where some weekly tests were ran off on them.
The cap has a Sentinel part number from 1953. :sigh:
I would use 22mfd for the 10, 47 for the 20 @250 volts and 100 @160 volts for the 100 section.
BTW, Is there any truth to the theory that operating too high of a voltage rated 'lytic on lower voltage, IE a 450 volt cap at 150 volts, that they never seem to form properly, or just another urban tale. :scratch2: