The band saw is a Delta 9" table top. I use it primarily for my model airplanes. Usually 1/4 5 ply plywood at the most. Also the blade is fairly new since December.

I'm done with the E-Caps.

I cleaned off the Mallory labels on the 3 tall caps. I then polished C116 can using Mothers Mag wheel polish. Followed by 2 coats of wax.

I then placed the cans on each cap and taped them so the can wouldn't come off when simply removing the cover. I use 3M Multi-Task tape for this. It is not like scotch tape. It goes on smooth and you can remove it in one piece. I use this stuff to seal the hinge gap on my control line model airplanes.

C116, the tall uncovered cap, the can is simply placed on the base. It is protected from getting all scratched up.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psulbyriwb.jpg

Here is a picture of the tape that I use:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psf7tv640m.jpg

Oh wow! You're into model planes? :banana: Is there a forum where you hang out? Do you fly stuff other than CL? 'Pologies for the thread hijak.

I hang out at "Stunt Hangar".
Here is a link to my latest build. It is a control line stunter. I fly stunt in competition. We are judged on how well we do mandatory stunts like loops, squares, triangles, figure 8"s etc. We are also judged on well the airplane is built and finished.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-al...ter-build-log/

I also fly some R/C. Here is a link to a build log on my Falcon 56.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...-Scratch-Build

I'm cleaning up the yoke mount today and noticed that there is some black paint looking stuff under and aft of the rubber bumpers for the CRT. I thought it just might be some black paint at first. Then I thought why would they paint that area black? It doesn't make sense.

Then when cleaning it off, it seemed to be almost rubbery? Then I remembered that when full sized airplane have rubber deice boots installed, we used to apply a small amount of black conductive paint to the boot and overlap on to the aluminum. This was used to conduct the static electricity built up on the rubber boot during flight to the airframe where it can be disapated off the airframe through the static wick dischargers.

Do you think that what this stuff is?

Here are 2 pictures showing what I mean:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psqfkl7uy9.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psb9xckmye.jpg

That's probably adhesive used to hold the rubber in place. There would be no need for it to be conductive. There are little springs there to contact the aquadag on the outside of the picture tube, which is the only thing I would think would be of concern from an electrical conductivity point of view.

Yeah, you're right. Overthought that.

I started putting things back together today.
I cleaned and painted the volume pot and cover because the tin plating was well worn in areas. This pot is in full view with the chassis out of the cabinet so I wanted it to look good.
One of the wires had a very old piece of friction tape on it and sure enough the wire was spliced. I cut it off at the splice and followed it down into the chassis. I cut the wire and spliced in about a 4 inch piece of wire. This way the original wire came out of the top of the chassis while the extra length wire that was spliced is hidden under the chassis. If you look close into the tuner hole, you'll see some black heat shrink where one end of the wire was spliced. The other end is just inside the chassis. I used some clear heat shrink over the fraying cloth insulation on the pot element and wiper wires to neaten them up.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3xqnvtun.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6oqj8mmu.jpg

Next up was the Brightness and Picture (contrast) pot. Pretty tight quarters. Black heat shrink was used here because the wires are hidden under the box.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pszpmxy5ex.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0mdwqyk2.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psrwvh1bsy.jpg

It's been a few days since the last post.

I cleaned up and painted the bleeder resistor housing and re-installed it and wired it back up. Note that I use a small piece if 1/8 clear heat shrink on the ends of the cloth covered wire to "tidy" up the end. It keeps the insulation from fraying all over the place and messy looking.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psfmovwyb3.jpg

Here are some pictures of sections of the wiring underneath. Not very good and low skill level of the person who attempted to do a previous restoration on this TV. Disc caps where tubulars and micas go! He used the hook method when he wasn't winding the lead on.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspe2yu3re.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psnpyxk6bu.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psscqidbir.jpg

Here is a picture of the installation of the new E-Caps. I started with C128 and then did C127. While I was at it, I decided to redo the entire area. Much better now! C116 is in left hand side of the first picture. I cleaned the H and V Hold pots and buffed up the shafts, then oiled them.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pseizkkitp.jpg

Here is a picture of C132 after re-wiring.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psewlytavo.jpg

Hope you used high temp paint...If it is anything like a 630 chassis those power resistors get hot enough to solder with! The heat shrink is probably going to degrade after ~100 hours run time too.

Some places it is better to be practical than a perfectionist.

Rust-Oleum BBQ paint. :)

As I usually do, I ID each component with a little piece of masking tape according to the schematic/parts list. This helps me ID the parts and their location. Also alerts me to any irregularities that might be present. Here is a picture of the entire underneath followed by each quadrant.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps82iqi9kn.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps99kiiuqa.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psctml44sw.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psel91dgml.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhfdgyql.jpg

Lose the heat shrink tubing on the bleeder resistor leads. They will go up in smoke.

Wow, OK. I'll redo them with out the heat shrink. Thanks for the heads up.

This evening I reinstalled the yoke and CRT wiring. When hooking up the yellow CRT wire to a terminal strip, I found this. First off you know that I clean off all excess solder and old component leads. Then install the wiring and components. After cleaning off the terminal, I had what looked like a small ball of solder left. I tried to pry it loose, but that didn't work. Upon real close inspection, I saw that it was a clipped off lead soldered to the lower portion of the lug! I used some solder wick to free it from the lug. It was very close to the chassis, very close. I don't know if that was there before I messed with it or not. In any case I'm glad I found it!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psedb7ok4e.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspzdt2pym.jpg

I thought I'd show you another use of clear heat shrink. I use it over wires that have been damaged by either the soldering iron or by close proximity to a soldered joint. I know I could have used black heat shrink here. But it works very well on the other wires.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psmtdperbs.jpg

I redid the resistor and capacitor network between the Sync Separator and the Vertical Oscillator simply because it was very close to the section I finished yesterday and it drove me nuts every time I looked at it. So I made it nice!

Here is a before and after shot.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9nsyfuh0.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdfqbrfli.jpg

Tonight I worked on the HV section. After removing all the old resistors and HV wires I cleaned them.

I installed 2 Watt resistors and some new 20Kv wire. I installed the Flyback and tube socket back onto the chassis along with the stationary HV cage. I have to wire the HV section to the chassis next.

Here are some pics before they went back onto the chassis.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pslacfujiv.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pspslsmnkq.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshhjjskea.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psjdkuy81s.jpg

Well, the doorknob cap is bad. That's the 2nd one I've found recently. The other one was on my Admiral 14R12.

It's supposed to be 500pf and it measures out to 36pf. The docs doesn't list a voltage. But the schematic shows 7.5Kv HV. I would think I would need at least a 10Kv rating.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psz2ted2jr.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psp6yu0bar.jpg

Wouldn't worry about it too much, long as the dag on your crt is in good condition it'll have way more capacity than the doorknob anyway.

The Dag is very good. Thanks.

I finished wiring the HV section tonight. Here are some pictures of the completed assembly.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psgyij47ii.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psci3gewov.jpg

Well, I decided to re-stuff my doorknob cap. I ordered 10 ea 470pf 20Kv caps from eBay for $6 shipped. http://www.ebay.com/itm/282085716087...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I cut off the bottom end right at the bottom portion of the main body. See the red arrow. I used my trusty band saw and took my time. No room for error.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psdhbcejce.jpg

Here is a picture after the bottom is cut off.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psvbdina8i.jpg

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pstuz5laym.jpg

I then used my Dremel with a Robart 3/8 ball carbide cutter
http://robart.com/collections/hobby-...-8-ball-coarse
to grind out a cavity to house the new cap. I kept at least a 3/16 edge so there will be room for the epoxy to glue to when gluing on the bottom. I ground down till I can see the copper end post.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psw0v9sf10.jpg

I then used some flux and solder to coat each end till my caps arrive.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pssolajq2k.jpg

More to follow when the caps get here.

Yeah, doorknobs came into use with metal cone CRTs which needed the extra filtering. When all-glass CRTs with internal/external aquadag came along, doorknobs kinda got 'grandfathered' along for a while, though not strictly needed.

Yeah, I know they are not really needed on this set. I'll re-stuff this one and reinstall for authenticity.

So what was inside this thing? Silver Mica?

Metalized ceramic usually.

Just a little grey but mostly powered phenolic.

I would be leery of re-using that casing because of leakage concerns.

Why? When I solder in a new cap where will it leak?

Now that the innard's exposed to ambient air/moisture, seems like it'd be prone to corona and arc-over inside. Or maybe I'm just being a fuddyduddy. :p:

Maybe you are. But we will see together when I get the caps in.

I reassembled the TV to power it up. As a recap of what was done so far, was to replace the E-Caps, clean the on-off volume pot, clean the brightness contrast pots, clean the V and H hold pots, clean the focus pot, replace some caps and resistors.
I powered it up using my variac and all seemed good using my 5AXP4 CRT. (EDITT: I then installed the 7DP4 CRT.) After a little warm up, I adjusted the Ion Trap and had a very bright raster. The HV is good! I could hear good audio from channel 6 a local FM station, but when I had a good picture from my converter box, there was no audio. I could hear static and some clicking. A lot of hash when I changed channels. I haven't gone through the audio section yet.
Over all a decent picture and good audio but not together. Of course I have a lot of caps and resistors to replace. I'll do some more power ups as I go through each section. And I haven't even touched the tuner yet.

Here is what I have now:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pshdmzysbz.jpg

A composite of before and after:
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1cr8zppb.jpg

Hi Crist,
You said you heard clicking? Does it sound more like ticking, intermittent or continuous? I ask because if you stuffed the old doorknob with a modern ceramic or mica cap, you may have arcing between the cap leads. When I repaired my Admiral last fall I used a 15kv cap as a substitute for the old doorknob. When I first tested the set I would hear ticking. Lowering the brightness would increase the amount of ticking, increasing would decrease the amount. I had to operate the set on its' side and in darkness to see the source of the ticking. Turned out the gap between the capacitor leads right at the body of the cap needed a greater gap. The proper dressing of the leads solved the problem I had. I didn't reuse or stuff the old doorknob. I mounted the cap under the chassis.
Ed

You don't use an ion trap or focus coil with a 5AXP4. They use a straight gun and are self focusing. Not having to mess around with the trap is very handy on the workbench.

Bob,
You are correct. I didn't make my post very clear. I used the 5AXP4 for the initial power up, then switched to the 7DP4 and Ion trap.

I correct the post.
Thanks.

Ed,
The clicking I heard was as if a mica cap goes bad. I was touching the ceramic cap on the big coil on the tuner (I forget the name) and got the clicking sound. It also could be coming from somewhere else.

I didn't have the door knob cap installed at all. I'm still waiting for them to arrive. Good info though. Thanks.

BTW, the HV on this TV is listed as only 7.5Kv so the possibility of arcing between the 20Kv leads should be reduced by a lot.

I worked on the Horizontal and Vertical sections today. They have been recapped and recarbed for the most part. I forgot to take a picture of my progress before starting this post.

Here is a picture of what I was working with. Caps and resistors seemingly wired "in the air"!
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...pswjotpcyh.jpg

Anyway here is a picture of the picture as of tonight. Some change. Getting better. I think the audio will have to be aligned before I get any audio that matches the CRT.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...psra1mwoqb.jpg

Next up the Sync Separator and on to the Audio section.

Here is a after picture of what was worked last night.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/...ps78zo1vyi.jpg