I then did the terminal strip near the CRT.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5449a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5463a.jpg


I then started down the left side of the chassis which is the IF strip and finished up near the power transformer.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5451a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5465a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content...3a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5456a.jpg

Were the original box caps actually micas, or papers that looked like micas? Is there a way to tell? I have a 51 Andrea with a bunch of the beige "micas" that look like those in your TV and I'm not sure if they actually are mica or not.


John

Good rule of thumb is to check the rated capacitance... usually everything below .001uF=1000pF (or mmf if you prefer the old notation) is genuine mica and everything .0047 and up is paper. I typically replace every rectangular cap .001uF and above with film caps. Even true micas are prone to failure in sweep circuits so ordering spares for those for the sake of our mutual friend Justin Case is an advisable measure to take.:D

Thanks Tom.

John

You're welcome.

More progress.

I did V3, V4, V5 the IF tubes, V7 the Video Amp, V17 the Vertical Multivibrator, and V18 the Vertical Output tube.

I decided to use the "coil" method on the 7 and 9 pin tube sockets. I didn't want to damage them. I did completely remove the component from the 8 pin tube sockets and terminal strips.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5462a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5481a.jpg

This evening I finished the recap.

I then replaced all the tubes and used my variac to power it up while monitoring B+ and current draw.

I got a picture and some faint audio. I haven't done a thing to the tuner and that will be next. Very flaky.

Here are some pictures of the completed underside and a picture of the CRT picture.

Getting there.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5534a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content...6a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content...8a-rotated.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5527a.jpg

No, I think that's the way Jack Klugman looks...:scratch2:

Wow, unbelievably neat work.

I'm actually surprised it's not performing better given all the new parts installed. The good news the tube looks fairly strong.

John

Tim Allen.

Lol, in that case it needs more work!!

John

OK, I found the problem with the lousy video.

I removed the tuner and cleaned it, used some Deoxit on the wafer switches, lubed it and checked all the resistors. All the resistors checked good. I had replacements pulled from my stock, but decided to leave well enough alone. Some of the resistors were pretty well buried. Reinstalled the tuner and sure enough same lousy video!

I directly injected video signal at the 1st video amp and got a decent picture. However the H and V holds were very touchy!

So I knew my problem was from the tuner through the IF section. I decided to do a resistance check. Sure enough pin 2 of V6 the 6AL5 tube showed 5K when it should be 3.5M. There is a typo on the resistance chart for V7 the 12AU7 pin 6. The chart shows 48K but should be 4.8K. V3, V4, V5 pin 5 shows the resistance should be 13K, but I measured 1.5K. I'm guessing another typo. I flipped the chassis over and confirmed that I had installed the right 3.9M R60 Sams. Then I notice that coil L16 was pressed down and touching pin 2. Bingo! I then added some insulation to the lead of coil L16 to prevent that from happening.

I now have a decent picture, some sound with a lot of buzzing/hum, and a very stable H and V hold circuits. I also measure the HV at 10 to 10.9KV depending on where the "Brightness" control is at. The Contrast control seems to work but is touchy and the picture disappears pretty quickly after about 1/3 down from full contrast.

I now need to check the alignment and get the audio where it should be. Then set up the focus coil/centering magnets, picture size and linearities. I have to look into adding the blanking circuit and the rest of the changes that are listed in Riders.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5547a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5551a.jpg

I added the blanking circuit according to Riders C3-2. I relocated the yellow wire (pin 11) and added the 24K resistor. I added another terminal strip and added the other caps and resistor. Then added a yellow wire to the VOT. This mod worked great!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5556a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5555a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5557a.jpg


I then added a circuit also shown in Riders C3-2. This added bias to V2 to help eliminate audio buzzing.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5553a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5554a.jpg

Hey, tidy work as usual. By coincidence, I recently finished a GE 810 of my own.

What Riders doc are you referencing? The Riders manual that I have seen uses page numbers like 2-20, 2-21, etc.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Phil,
C3-2 is the Change section of Riders Volume 3 page 2 of the change section.

I can't seem to find the article on your site. C'mon man, your public is waiting! :D

Nor could I.:no::sigh:

Ah, now I see:

http://www.earlytelevision.org/pdf/changes_rider_3.pdf

Re my 810, the restoration is done, but the article is still a-brewin' . I should be able to finish it soon, though (I swear that is not a lie, totally not a lie . . . ).

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Quality takes time ... And good things are worth the wait.

Well talk about bad luck! I was aligning the audio and had just finished up the last tweak when I lost the picture! After a few moments, the L2 filter choke started to sizzle and spit out wax. At the same time the 5U4G was pinballing! I quickly shut it down and the choke continued to sizzle for a few seconds.

I remembered reading when Phil restored his 810 he had an almost identical situation. His yoke windings has shorted together. So I checked mine. Same thing.

Looks like I'm in the market for a yoke. I have a junker 806 I'll see if the yoke is the same. EDIT: NOPE THE 806 IS NOT THE SAME.

Below is a link to Phil's experience.

https://antiqueradios.com/forums/vie...31967#p2931967

Sucks that it happened, esp after all you have done so far...

But I do have to ask...
Unfamiliar term... :saywhat::saywhat:

"5U4G was pinballing!"

pinballing?
Not heard that used in relation to tubes before. :o

There were flashes coming from the tube.

Take an old defective tube. Put it in the microwave for a few seconds..

John

I wouldn't suggest putting anything metallic in a microwave. :no:

how about microwave plasma using the old grape trick? :p

AKA--- July 4th came early inside the 5U4 tube... :)

SR

I fixed the yoke! I think it was shorting out on the inner tube windings.

I used my heat gun to warm up the inner tube and slid it out of the yoke. This was a mistake. You see the inner tube has some very fine wire windings on it and when I slide the tube out, I broke the fine wire lead that was soldered to the black wire that is grounded to the chassis. You can see it in this photo where the lead is insulated with a small 1/8 long fiberglass sleeve between the 2 layers of windings.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5562a.jpg


I then continued to disassemble the yoke by separating the 2 windings. They sure liked to used that real sticky cloth tape!

When I removed the aluminum shell I saw that the windings were wrapped with a thin sheet of metal.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5563a.jpg


The next group of pictures show the disassembled yoke parts.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5564a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5565a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5566a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5567a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5568a.jpg

The next group shows the inner tube and its windings. This is where I think the short occurred. The windings are covered with a very thin plastic type of material. Well there was 1 spot that the windings were worn through and shiny copper colored. You can see this in the picture with the pencil pointing to the worn through spot. The small fine wire that I broke off is at the opposite end of the worn though spot. I peeled back the plastic and unwound about an inch of wire so it can be resoldered back the black wire lug. I then cleaned and added a layer of Kapton tape over the whole thing.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5569a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5573a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5574a.jpg


I then made a new insulating washer from an old milk jug. This helps insulate the windings from each other.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5575a.jpg


I then cleaned and reassembled the yoke. I ohmed it out and sure enough the short was gone. I reinstalled everything and replaced the 5U4G tube. The old tube has little balls of metal rolling around. Fired it back up using my variac checking the current draw. All was fine and I now have my picture back. I'm letting it "burn" in for a while.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_5577a.jpg

Nice job.

Reminds me of the mid 90s Mitsubishi projection yokes (essentially B&W) that used to burn from the left horiz winding to the right. Once the yokes went out of production, it was either repair them or lose a repair job.

I used to separate the burned windings and isolate them. Covered with about 10 layers of cyanoacrylate, no more problems.

The good thing is that the burned/shorted area was external, right about where the neck and bell met, so I didn't have to disassemble the whole yoke like you had to.

Impressed.

John

Yes, the burned-up filter choke and the shorted yoke -- fond memories! I was lucky enough to find replacement parts on eBay.

I also had to replace a cheap socket that failed by arcing between the pins. My 810 works well now, but I can't say I was very impressed with the overall build quality.

It's great that you were able to repair your yoke. It may outlast any of the originals out there.

Regards,

Phil Nelson
Phil's Old Radios
https://antiqueradio.org/index.html

Dude. You got more guts than a Army mule.:beerchug::D

Where is the fine wire coil that you repaired connected in the circuit? Is is in series with one of the other windings? I didn't see any separate coil shown in either the Rider or Sams schematic.

Nice work.

Once a yoke choke or transformer fails it can't be broken again till it's fixed so there's nothing to loose trying to fix it.... that approach has saved me hunting for unobtanium a few times.

The coil is connected to the black wire on the yoke that goes to chassis ground. The coil only had the 1 end connected. The end near the worn through spot just ends. My guess is that the coil on the tube is some sort of a shield. But I really don't know.

The coil is not shown on any schematic because it is an integral part of the yoke assembly, again my guess.

... never mind.

The idea of a shield makes sense. However, I maintain that it should have been represented in the schematic in some fashion.

If anyone was going to fix it and make it better than new it would be you. Very nice work.

Several years ago, I found a similar coil on a 3NP4 (projection tube) yoke and concluded that it was for shielding... this particular coil was grounded on both ends. :scratch2:

jr