That's what I did too. Notice the sliders are near the extremes to get 1360 and 230.
Next time around though I think I'll use a 1.5K and 250 ohm fixed and parallel them with resistors to get the exact value. Fixed are half the cost of the adjustable ones.

15K in parallel with the 1.5K
2.7K in parallel with the 250

2W should be enough. Most of the current will be running through the big power resistor.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8323/8...2d9e8a83_z.jpg

I used a 1.5k and 15k resistors in parallel for the 1360 ohm, and 390 ohms in parallel with 560 ohms for the 230 ohm resistor.

Great suggestions guys. What company is best to purchase from?

What did you do for the R209? The 5300 segment is open. The connection is on the middle of the three pronges at the top. Is that 5300 + 500 for 5800 ohms since the three top pronges are for the 500 ohms and the connection is on the middle pronge. What value is it? 5300 or 5800 ? And any suggestions for best place to get it.

Thanks Bandersen for the pix. I try do nice work too.


What's the difference between the 8TS30, not the 6TS30. The schematics look the same.

The 630TS has an electromagnetic ion trap; 8TS30 is PM. I think some of the 630TS sets have a field coil speaker; all of the 8TS30 sets, and most of the late production 630TS, should have a PM speaker.

Some, but not all :)

My 8TS30 has an electromagnetic ion trap. Pm speaker tho.

Bandersen : what was that picture tube you used in your 6TS30 restoration.

My ion trap is the PM type

5AXP4. It was designed for using while the chassis is up on the workbench. You can leave the 10BP4 safely tucked away.

A few things to keep in mind. The 5AXP4 does not used an ion trap or focus coil so you have to leave them off. If you don't, the image will be very blurry and pushed off center.

R209 is 3 series connected sections, 5300, 500, and 500 ohms. The middle tap (default setting) is at 5300+500, or 5800 ohms. Possible settings are 5300 (bottom tap), 5800 (middle tap), or 6300 (top tap). This is the horizontal linearity adjustment.

Could be replaced with a 6.8K 50W adjustable wirewound, set for 5800 ohms. The original is only rated at 25 W, but a modern 50W unit is a closer mechanical fit to the original.

Thanks N2Ixx and Bandersen. I have a chance to pick up another 8TS30 and its Air King equivalent 8TS30.

What's your advise concerning those non-polarized yellow capacitors. The ones under a 1 MFD. I know in power supplies they must be polarized, but what about under the chassis with plate to grid connections and when they are used to filter to ground.

It doesn't matter which way you hook up the modern plastic film caps.

How about that HV capacitor c-187 in the HV cage. Any thoughts about testing it and replacing it if its bad.

I also got two more 8TS30 tvs today.

The ceramic "doorknob" HV caps rarely go bad in my experience. No need for routine replacement.

Hard to test it except in the set, under operating voltage. If bad, it will arc over or short out the high voltage. Similar caps are still made, but expensive. If you actually need one, look on eBay, or ask around here and somebody will have one.

Just picked one up myself. From a good collector friend. Untouched, as far as caps are concerned, but somebody had replaced the HV CRT lead with a big cupped color set one. I'll replace that with an original RCA one. Otherwise, nice original condition. I'm going to restuff everything and put the chassis in my sweet condition Air-King A-1000 cabinet, which came with a thoroughly botched recap job in a rusty moldy chassis. I'll scan and copy and print the original Air-King chassis label and affix it to the new chassis, and nobody will ever suspect.

Well, close to nobody...:smoke:

What about the two resistors underneath the 1B3-GT?:smoke:

Thanks. All this info sends me in the right direction. Just picked up another 2 - 8TS30 chassis.

M3-SRT8: Air-King A-1000 cabinet - that was one of the sets I got today. In good condition two.

I'll have to check out the two resistors underneath the 1B3-GT (233/235.)

Bandersen has an excellent video series on youtube of his 6TS30 restoration. Been studying that closely and he had a section on checking those two resistors. Good luck with your Air King. If those scans check out ok, let me know. I will be restoring that cabinet too. I think the decals are the same as the RCA decals and you can get them on the Antique Radio supply site.

The 2 resistors under the 1B3 socket are known to fail, particularly the 1M one in series with the anode lead. They can both be checked for value from the topside of the chassis, without dismounting the 1B3 socket.

On my 8TS30 the schematic says R226, R227 go from C224A to C220A, however, I have three chassis: two RCAs, the other a Fada version of the 8TS30.

On the Fada they follow the schematic: C224A to C220A but the two RCA's they don't.

The two RCA's go from C224A to C221B. The ohms between C220A to C221B is 44.7. I expected 0 ohms if it was just another route point but its not.

Has anyone encountered this difference? I'm inclined to keep it identical to the two RCAs since I can rule out a replacement mistake. But this puzzles me.