I checked the voltages on V1 and V2 with the tubes removed.

Well Late this afternoon I decided to replace the mica caps in A4. I thought that while I had it out, why take the chance. I replaced them with 500V 5% micas. I had the 10pf but didn't have the 130pf so I put 2 in parallel. When I checked them with my cap checker I got 129pf. Good enough. And I also changed out the 15K resistor which read 23K once removed. BTW, all the caps in the tuner were replaced using carbon film caps.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9069a.jpg

I re-installed the tuner and I now have a much better picture.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9078a.jpg

On to the alignment.

Excellent! did the plate voltage on the 2 6J6 plates change?

jr

I haven't checked it. I'll do that and report back.

Yeah, I have 137V at pins 1 and 2 of V2 the 6J6.

Oops! Made a recapping error! Before I do an alignment I take small pieces of masking tape and ID the places I need to hook to during the alignment. In the Sams these consist of letters A thru F. All went well till finding test point F. Test point F is at the junction of R22, R20, and C13. When examining that spot I noticed that C13 wasn't at the junction! It was at the "bottom" of R20. I checked my notes and sure enough I soldered C13 to the wrong terminal. I soldered it to terminal 3 (counting L to R) instead of 4. I easily moved it to the right spot and labeled test pont F. I never would have caught that if I wasn't pre-labeling those test points. Excuse me while I go buy a couple of Lottery tickets!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9084a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9079a.jpg

The picture is getting better by just watching TV. Star Trek to be exact.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9088a.jpg

I'm done with the alignment and now on to some details.
I noticed this from the beginning. There some white horizontal lines that "flash" every so often. They are usually near the top of the screen. This happened before I did the retrace blanking mod. They increase in brightness with the "Brightness" knob. If the picture is just a little too dark, they almost disappear.
I've cleaned all the tube sockets and their pins.
Any ideas. Thanks.

https://youtu.be/cFoYIfubVkY

Is that an example at Spocks chin?

Is that perhaps a 60 hz "hum bar" from the bright line down to the chest insignias on both characters? (does it slowly move up through the picture?)

jr

Yeah, it sure looks like one of those lines.

I haven't noticed the hum bar moving. It seems that it is always just below a white line.

I injected the video directly into the Video Amp tube and I still get those same white lines.

I'm starting on the cabinet now. I remember reading somewhere what it takes to remove the channel plate that is usually warped. Can anybody point me to where I read that? I don't want to break that Channel number plate!
Thanks.

I got the channel plate off with no problems.

You're daring! I never had the nerve to pry one off. I adjusted my tuner by simply taking the chassis out.

What I did was to use a 3/16 dowel and a small hammer to "drift" it out from the inside. Tapping lightly on each "pin" and move it a little at a time. No prying. 2 of the brass retainers stayed in the cabinet. I used my flush cutter to get them out from the front side.

I've cleaned and polished the cabinet. Then I refilled the lettering on the front of the cabinet like Bob did on his video. I used some satin acrylic paint from Walmart and it turned out pretty good. Then I got to thinking that he used white on his black cabinet and I also used white on my brown cabinet. Looking at it now, I'm thinking I should have used perhaps a light tan or Khaki color. I scrapped the lines on the Channel Plate and they stayed a Khaki color. What color did Admiral use on their brown cabinets?

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9257a.jpg

I looked closely at my original brown example and it looks like the lettering is a cream color rather than stark white. I would say redoing all the lettering in stark white would be acceptable though.
It seems the white dots on the channel plate must've been molding injection marks that were just filled along with the lettering at the factory.

It will probably fade/dirty to a cream eventually anyway.

Ivory/Cream for sure on mine... original, un-restored:

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4721/...50c128_z_d.jpg

jr

My set. It basically looks white in the photo, but in person it's more a cream color. Notice how swirled the knobs are on this example!

Guys,
I really appreciate those photos. I have to agree it's cream color.

A trip up to the local Walmart produced another bottle of paint. "Toasted Marshmallow" it is.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9264a.jpg

I redid the lettering on the cabinet and Channel Plate. After it dries tomorrow, I'll clean them both up and outline what I'm doing to mount the Channel Plate.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9259a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9258a.jpg

Perfect Crist! It's those little details in restorations that make a set look just right.

Absolutely!

Channel Plate.
I used my heat gun and gently heated and flattened out the plate the best I could. After trying to fit it back onto the cabinet, I could see that the plate had shrunken some. To get the plate to lie flat I filed the round mounting holes till it fit properly and centered over the hole in the cabinet.
With the holes filed out I knew the brass retaining clips won't work. So I came up with the idea of using some #6 flat washers and some 1/8" model airplane fuel line. The fuel line is a tight fit over the mounting posts. The washers are just the right size to go over the posts and then the fuel line can press against the washers "pulling" the Channel Plate onto the cabinet. The pieces of fuel line were left long so if I had to remove them I could grab it with a pair of pliers.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9271a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9272a.jpg

I then recreated the 3 labels. Two for the chassis and one for the back. Not an exact copy but real close!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content...6586574896.jpg

Once the 2 labels were applied the chassis was done!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9277a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9280a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9281a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9284a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9285a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9288a.jpg

The cabinet parts were reassembled and the chassis slid home and screwed down tight!

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9291a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9302a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9304a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9308a.jpg

Wow. That set looks like it just came out of the box. The channel number plate is made of Tenite which always shrinks and warps to some extent. I had a Westinghouse wood radio with Tenite knobs that we’re slightly misshapen. It is unavoidable. Congratulations on such a fine and detailed restoration. I have bought two of those years ago but both arrived with the cabinets smashed. No one knows how to properly pack and ship something as heavy as a Bakelite TV.

I changed out the interlock cord and replaced the label.
On the interlock I used 2 small nylon spacers 1/4 diameter and 1/4 long. Then used 2 rivets and peened the end over.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9316a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9317a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9319a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9322a.jpg

Thanks for the kind words.

I missed posting these photos of O'scope curves I took during alignment. The first one shows the initial response curve before I tweaked anything. Then the rest are self labeled.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9095b.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9096a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9097a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9098a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9099a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9100a.jpg

Then these are from the RF and Mixer adjustments for channel 4. BTW, channel 3 looks very similar.

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9102a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9103a.jpg

https://tvrestorerguy.com/wp-content.../100_9104a.jpg

Looks pretty good!

Thanks.

Just to include a summary of what was changed during the restoration.

Capacitors:
This chassis has about 72 caps.
21 paper caps that were all changed
6 electrolytic caps that were all changed
There were 4 disc caps that I changed that were on the high side of tolerance.
There were 6 mica caps that were changed. 2 were from the IF can on the tuner. 2 were 1Kv caps that were in tolerance but were changed because of the high voltage rating, the other 2 were in tolerance but changed anyway.
For a total of 37 caps changed or 51%.

Resistors:
This chassis has about 72 resistors. All were changed.
54 resistors were out of tolerance. Some just barely all the way up to 278%.
Of the 18 left, 6 were just a few points from being out of tolerance and were changed anyway.
Of the 12 left, they were well within tolerance. 4 of them from the tuner that got changed while I was "in there" changing the 4 resistors that were out of tolerance.
So looking at percentages:
75% out of tolerance
8% close to being out of tolerance
17% well within tolerance.

Tubes:
18 tubes - 1 was shorted when I received the TV.
4 were on the low side of green.
The 5Y3G rectifier tube was installed but should have been a 5U4G tube due to the transformer being one of the small percentage chassis that got a transformer from a vendor that didn't quite meet the specs for using a 5Y3G tube.
The 7JP4 CRT displays a good picture, not a great one but a very good one though.

Wow Crist, that really is a jaw-dropping resto! It looks like the day it was bought new. I would call Admiral the "Chevrolet" of vintage TV's. Great lines and great performance.

Lookin good :thmbsp:
Were you able to totally eliminate those white lines/streaks in the video?

jr

Thanks!

Thanks.

No I wasn't. I'll live with them.

So they are intermittent? I don't see them on the last picture.

jr

Yes, they come and go.